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Author Topic: stock painting tips  (Read 5052 times)
Blue Avenger
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Kasson, MN


« on: December 22, 2007, 01:57:50 PM »

You guys can list the types of paint you are getting for spider web, or painting through lace on a pink stock for special effects ect. how to prep so the paint sticks to the plastic or wood. 

when painting plastic I use a adhesion promoter first.
read the can. there are many different cure times between coats. have had to wait as much as 6 days between coats to avoid wrinkles and lifting.
« Last Edit: December 24, 2007, 09:13:17 AM by Blue Avenger » Logged

.223 Rem AI, .243 Win AI, .6MM Rem AI, .257 Rob AI, .25-06 Rem AI, .30-06 AI

Greg Idso
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« Reply #1 on: December 22, 2007, 07:26:57 PM »

  Haven't had any issues with paint not sticking to either wood or plastic. I have noticed that when you use lace underware for a stencil, you need to either have multiple pairs or alow time to clean out the fabric due to plugging up.
  I tried using a wood putty as kind of a glaze coat on my last stock that was mostly covered with bondo. The two "DO NOT" take paint the same. I could see easily where the wood putty was.

  Toot
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FALPhil
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« Reply #2 on: December 23, 2007, 12:37:58 AM »

I tried using a wood putty as kind of a glaze coat on my last stock that was mostly covered with bondo. The two "DO NOT" take paint the same. I could see easily where the wood putty was.

Toot,  when you mix the two like that, and even if you don't, you should apply a thin coat of auto glazing compound over the surface, wet sand it with progressive grades, and let it dry for 24 hours.  Then shoot a coat of grey enamel primer over it.  When the primer has hardened, go over it with 000 steel wool, then a tack cloth, and you are ready to paint.
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Redcrow
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« Reply #3 on: December 23, 2007, 07:03:19 AM »

Check out the 6BR web site.  They have a good article on stock painting; http://www.6mmbr.com/stockpainting.html
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Blue Avenger
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Kasson, MN


« Reply #4 on: December 24, 2007, 09:14:58 AM »

http://savageshooters.baker-media.com/SavageForum/index.php?topic=10895.0
http://savageshooters.baker-media.com/SavageForum/index.php?topic=10855.0
http://savageshooters.baker-media.com/SavageForum/index.php?topic=7094.0
http://savageshooters.baker-media.com/SavageForum/index.php?topic=7515.0
« Last Edit: December 24, 2007, 09:21:15 AM by Blue Avenger » Logged

.223 Rem AI, .243 Win AI, .6MM Rem AI, .257 Rob AI, .25-06 Rem AI, .30-06 AI

Greg Idso
toolmantoad
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« Reply #5 on: February 11, 2008, 07:53:32 AM »

Or you can send it to me Tongue


[]
« Last Edit: February 11, 2008, 07:56:13 AM by toolmantoad » Logged
toot
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« Reply #6 on: February 12, 2008, 04:37:53 AM »

     Good job Toad..  Very good job...   

         Kelly
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tommyo
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« Reply #7 on: October 23, 2008, 07:38:47 PM »

Got any tips on how to paint a 12 BVSS laminate stock? I want to go with a matte plack or a finish like Remington uses on their police models. Do I sand first or use a chemical finish remover, then prime, then paint? What brands work best? Thanks in advance for your time!

Tom
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lumbergrader
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« Reply #8 on: October 23, 2008, 08:18:03 PM »

I would used the cheap truck bed liner that comes in a spray can, it gives you a flat black color and texture like the stocks you are talking about. This is a very durable finish also. Just make sure your stock is clean before you spray it.
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tommyo
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« Reply #9 on: October 26, 2008, 02:39:25 PM »

What do you mean by "clean"? Are you saying it's not necessary to sand or remove the existing finish? Thanks for the bed liner paint tip! That sounds like it would give me the textured finish I want.
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lumbergrader
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« Reply #10 on: November 09, 2008, 10:46:11 AM »

What I mean by clean is take steel wool or medium grit sand paper and rough the surface up. If you are spraying it over bondo let the bondo set up for a day or more. The surface does not have to be perfect, the bed liner spray will cover up alot of defects.
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ponykilr
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Eye see you


« Reply #11 on: November 12, 2008, 02:56:56 PM »

Toad, I sent you an email
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moonsign
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« Reply #12 on: December 11, 2008, 11:26:41 PM »

Hey, just stumbled onto your site tonight, and decided to join up.
Readin the threds on painting[I by the way am a Custom painter/Artist with over thirty five years experience], I linked over to Mike Ricklefs site, since we have  run into each other at sign painter get togethers. Readin his article of stock painting, he hit it on the head. Very good information.
I custom painted my ole Marlin 882 22 Cal. couple months ago, and just now finishing custom painting my new Savage model 25 .204[will be finished in a day or two, after final clearing.
Anyone attempting to paint their own stock, read Mike's article, on what and what not to do. Probably save you some trouble.
Read somewhere someone suggesting mixing Testors glue and paint to marblize a job. I'm still chuckimng over that one.
I've been airbrushing 35 yrs. and trust me, that will quickly put your ole airbrush out of it's misery. Was a cute read anyway.      "Moon" Mullins
Addition to above: Just finished custom painting my savage M25 .204 cal. stock, and my clearing guy, is clear coating [twice] and rubbing it out.
Will pick it up tomorrow[Sunday], and have her back together buy Monday or Tuesday.
Decided to post a pic. of it, before it was pinstripped and cleared.


« Last Edit: December 13, 2008, 10:20:48 PM by moonsign » Logged

R. "Moon" Mullins
Dog1
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« Reply #13 on: December 22, 2008, 04:51:37 PM »







I used Marine Tex for the textured parts and RustOleum Stops Rust textured paint. They have it in Olive Green and it is very lightly textured. It just has enough texture to be non-slip. After a few coats of the RustOleum I shot some flat clear enamel on it.

Model 110Fp Tactical in 7mm Remington Mag. The stock is a Stockade Gun Stocks "Woodchuck". It's sporting a new Nikon 6-18X40 Buckmaster with 1/8 moa click turrets.

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savage 308
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« Reply #14 on: December 27, 2008, 11:50:32 AM »





my savage model 10 flp in 308,
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