Painting Tupperware

[taylorce1]

I just painted a Stevens 200 stock for my 6-222 RM build.  I obviously removed the action from the stock and took out the sling studs and removed the recoil pad.  I then used 200 grit sand paper and sanded down all the mould lines to clean up the stock.  I masked everything off that I didn't want primer or paint to get into.  I used a snug fitting piece of lumber that I put in the buttstock to hold the rifle by while priming and painting. 

I then cleand the stock with Acetone before I rattle can sprayed it with automotive plastic primer from NAPA.  I then let it dry for a few days by hanging it in the garage.  I then used a tack cloth to remove any dust never touching the stock with my hands.  I then used plain textured Rustoleum for paint since I had primed it I wasn't worried about using a plastic paint to make sure it would stick to the stock.  Now I just need to go back and clear the whole stock to seal the paint since it is textured it is very easy to get rub marks in it and the clear will prevent that. 

Here is a link so you can look at my rifle.  http://savageshooters.com/SavageForum/index.php/topic,25292.msg183746.html#msg183746

[Southernfryedyankee]

I actually sold all of those stocks already, sorry. I MAY do 1 in the future. I was doing it as a little way to make ends meet but it wasnt going well so I stopped

[Carphunter]

Just an update... got the stock done.

I like the look, but I did have some pull-off problems. I've got some ideas as to why (not so much the paint's issue... more things I did while prepping). It was de-oiled...but I put a first coat on the stock incorrectly (held can too far from stock...allowing paint to actually sort of dry before hitting stock...per aervoe, you have to shoot from 6-8 inches and i was probably further back). Well, I sanded off the rough surface of that finish...when I should have sanded hard down to plastic again, or stripped it with acetone. i think this poorly laid down layer is what allows subsequent spots to pull away.

I recoated the problem areas, and then hit the whole thing with a layer of clear

Here's a pic of how it looked with pull-offs, and then a pic of how it looks now, ready to fire.

[montana_native]

how do those stocks wear if you are packing them over your shoulder for long hikes?

Thanks.

[GaCop]

I use the same method as "southernfriedyankee", works great with Krylon camo colors and clear coat.

[Carphunter]

don't know how it will wear yet... just got it painted

've learned something... don't paint the rail (or at least the clamping surfaces)

It's tough to get rings to clamp on to the painted surface uniformly.  I think I've used up a lot of my windage adjustment because the two rings are slightly off kilter.   I got the scope to zero...but I think I'm near the edge of the adjustment range (when I like to keep it more centered.  Could just be the EGW rail and how well the stock mount holes are drilled... but before next season, I'm going to strip the paint off where the mounts go so it's not even a consideration.   Normally, I will set up two scopes on rings so I can change them in a catastrophe.  My setups in the past have been so good I could mount, unmount and remount and be zeroed again.... right now, as it is... I won't pull my primary scope off because I really question if I can match the clamping tension (and I've got only two weeks to season... so I don't want to have to deal with another trip to the range - which is now packed with hunters sighting in).

[GaCop]

Weaver windage adjustable 4X4 rings work great and save your internal adjustment.  Millet also makes windage adjustable rings but their not as robust as the Weavers.