What bipod and scope mount do you recommend for the Savage F/TR rifle?

[anderjam]

What bipod and scope mount do you recommend for the Savage F/TR rifle?

[tropicmaster]

Harris 6-9" with swivel bi-pod, and Ken Ferrel one piece base with as much MOA built in as you need for your chambering. I have the 20 MOA for a .308. If you are shooting one of the 6's,6,5's, or 7's, or if you have a scope with a LOT of adjustment, you will probably be fine with a zero MOA base.


There was a 20 MOA Farrel base in the member classifieds- might want to look and see it it is still available.

[JCalhoun]

anderjam,

Are you shooting F Class with it? If so, don't get a swivel bipod, you don't want anymore movement than necessary. Harris make a good one. Unless you have a big belly go with the lowest bipod you can get away with. Get a good leather rabbit ear rear bag for the rifle.

How far are you going to shoot?

Is it .223 or .308?

Ken Farrell makes good bases and rings but are kinda pricey. Shooting distance will determine what taper the base should be.

[memilanuk]

Are you shooting F Class with it? If so, don't get a swivel bipod, you don't want anymore movement than necessary.\

I'll respectfully disagree with this one.  Many firing lines aren't paved, and it helps a *lot* to be able to level your gun so the scope is plumb and your elevation clicks actually go straight *up*.  Even on ranges with paved firing lines, I've seen more than one where the firing line isn't necessarily level, nor is the target berm.  Being able to compensate and not have a gun canted side to side helps.   With a fixed bipod and the sliding (vs. notched) legs you could still level things to a fair degree, but my recommendation would be for the BRM-S model (6-9", swivel with notched legs).  Add a scope level aka 'anti-cant device' or ACD and a Pod-Loc so you can snug it down once level, and you should be good to go.  For rings, the Ken Farrell bases work very well, if a bit heavy and high.  EGW makes a lighter aluminum rail that is inexpensive, but you should have plenty of wiggle room in terms of weigh even with the Farrell, and you can get a 30moa rail if you want it (EGW I believe maxes out @ 20).  The extra height of the Farrell base actually helps a little if you are shooting a big scope like a NF 12-42x56mm; I actually go with medium height rings on that base.  On other bases I may have to go to high rings to have the scope bell clear the barrel.  For scope rings... the Burris Signature Zee rings with the posi-lign inserts work very well on the F/TR rifle... as you can use the inserts to center up the scope for windage a bit rather so you are mechanically centered and can get the most usable windage out of your scope at longer distances.

YMMV,

Monte

[LaurieH]

I'd agree absolutely with Monte on using a bipod that allows tilt as few grass firing points are completely level. You'll likely find you're 'fighting' the rifle and bipod to realign it after every shot with a rigid model - been there, got that teeshirt years back!

If you're thinking about entering serious long-range F-TR competition, a Harris BRS bipod will get you going at reasonable cost, but you'll find most top competitors use wide set 'Ski-feet' type models. Unlike traditional bipods that have to be braced by the firer using the rifle to put pressure on the legs to stop the whole kit & caboodle jumping and moving under recoil, these are designed to track backwards and forwards on the grass - approaching the effect of shooting off a front-rest and bag.

A widely used model is the Sinclair F-Class bipod - not cheap at $200, nor light at the 2lb mark. (Weight isn't generally an issue for Savage 12 FTR rifle owners, but it is for those contemplating custom-built F-TR rigs, the allowed all-up 8.25Kg / 18lb 3oz weight including scope and bipod easily reached and exceeded with 7 or 8lbs of heavy barrel installed, and 2lbs + of 8-32 target scope and mounts.)

On mounts, I'd certainly recommend the Farrell rail - I have them on four rifles including two Savage 12 competition models. With the 12 F/TR being .308W, you want the 20-MOA sloped version if you're going to shoot at over 600 yards to ensure you have enough elevation adjustment in the scope. (Even if you're shooting at 600yd max, a sloped rail is still a good idea as it has the effect of moving scope settings and you'll have it somewhere near the desirable middle-setting at this range.)

Good shooting,

Laurie,
York, England