Help choosing 20 MOA base

[spaniel]

I have a brand new Savage Model 11 (package gun) .243Win non-Accutrigger.  Round top to the receiver.  I'm trying to make sure I get the right 20 MOA base that also allows clearance to the barrel nut (using Leupold QR rings).  Plan is to be able to swap between the 243 and a custom muzzleloader barrel I have coming.

Most of the 20 MOA bases I've looked at eith say they are for accutrigger guns (not sure why the trigger matters for the scope base) or have an extension forward that appears like it would prevent a wrench from getting on the barrel nut:

Here's one that looks gun but claims it's for accutrigger:
http://www.cgwgun.com/Scope-Mounts/Warne-Maxima-Tactical-Base__WRN-66620MOA.aspx

And others with the forward extension:
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=113796
http://www.mcreesprecision.net/buy_direct.htm

Any direction or experience with a 20 MOA base that work work (preferably not the $100+ variety) would be most appreciated.

[Carvera]

Are you trying to be able to switch barrels while keeping the scope still on? You need to be careful of your mount screws going into the threads of your barrel.

I know I'm not really answering your question, but I do have a question for you.

How are you going to swap your .243 for a muzzle loader barrel?

[spaniel]

I'll check the length of the mount screws and make sure they are not too long.

I would not leave the scope on, I have quick-release rings on the way.  I would just leave the base on, I know other people do this.  I have used QR rings on other guns and they come back VERY close to zero.

I'm not sure about your question as to "how" I will swap the barrel.  Pac-Nor makes drop-in muzzleloader barrel conversions and I have one on order.  I also have on order a breech plug which will allow me to use shortened .243 cases as the primer carrier.  So I will be able to swtich between barrels as long as I check the headspace. It will be an extra pain to have to remove the scope base and too much wear on the mounting screws so I need to be able to leave that on.

I also have a new stock on the way with a wider barrel channel so clearance for that will not be an issue.

[Carvera]

Interesting,

I just learned something new with your post.

Are you looking for a steel, or aluminum base?

[spaniel]

Steel is always better but at twice the price the $40-ish price point of the EGW aluminum is attractive.  Midway has one for a little more that is supposted to be a harder aluminum allow, lower profile and no longitudinal cut (ie better engagement of mounting hardware).  Right now the best thing I can find to do is get the EGW, trim off the excess and repaint the exposed metal (IF I cannot access the barrel nut with it installed).  I've seen a lot of posts on here by people with the EGW base so I'm hoping someone can comment on whether it blocks the barrel nut or not.

[Balljoint]

Go to www.egw-guns.com and check out what they have

[BobT]

If you intend to leave your scope base on when you change barrels you will need either a barrel vise or an "in line" action wrench. I would recommend that you use a clamp on action wrench the first time you remove the factory barrel. I tried to do it with a barrel vise and barrel nut wrench and had no luck at all but the first attempt with the Wheeler action wrench from Midway was a breeze. Someone else was making a muzzle loading barrel for the Savage but the name of the company escapes me , I believe it used a .45 Winchester Magnum case for the primer. It sounds like a fun gun!

Bob

[spaniel]

Thanks everyone, I found a Warne base that escaped my attention and should do the trick.