Nandy
12-21-2011, 08:08 PM
Forum,
Since the deer season is about over I'm starting the planing/budgeting face of this project. What I like to do is present what I want to do and hear the experience from others as far as equipment, procedures and etc... so I can plan this better.
As far as my experience "gun smithing"... I done light work on firearms. I can disassemble every firearm I have to the basic components to clean and put them back. I have polished many triggers, do one barrel replacement on this savage and reload as well. I do all my mechanics (car, atv, boat) and have a degree in electronic engineering. I like to think I am good with my hands and my brain (the days it switches on, lol).
This rifle started as a 110 30-06/synthetic stock/Bushnell scope combo that I bought at Walmart or Kmart about 10 to 12 years ago.
This is how the rifle stands today.
Its a flat rear receiver.
Long action
A&B 30-06 Sporter contour 1-10 26" Barrel (pretty much the same as what came with the rifle)
rifle basix SAV-2 trigger
Choate Varmint stock
LimbSaver Grind to fit recoil pad
Leupold VIII 4.5x10x50mm Illuminated reticle 30mm tube
Leupold 30mm Quick-Release Weaver-Style Rings
Warne 20 MOA Steel 1-Piece Tactical Picatinny-Style Scope Base Savage 110
After market Large Shank Recoil Lug (dont remember the maker but it was $20 some)
At a 100 yds with the A&B 30-06 barrel and reloads this rifle shots under an inch all the time after warming up and the best groups are about .518". The cold barrel initial shot is a bit over an inch from the warm groups. I know this is no a huge deal for hunting which is the primary use of the rifle but it does bugs me. I want to have another caliber to hunt and would like to have a gun that the impact from a cold barrel and hot barrel shots are closer if not the same. The budget will restrict me from building a BR rifle out of it but I plan to get as close as I can to a BR rifle as my budget allows me. Would like to spend most of the money on the items that will affect the accuracy the most and be a little more restrained on any item that will not markedly improve accuracy (if there is such a thing....). We have plenty of "long shot" opportunities where I hunt and their range up to 400 yards but most of my favorites spots will keep the shooting under the 350 yards. At the beginning of the season shorter shots with ample opportunities and relaxed deer are more of a norm (under 150 yards, deer taking it's time when in open areas) but as the season progresses the deer gets very attentive to its surrounding, they don't hang around as long in an open area and the long shots (over 200 yds) become the norm. My longer shot to date is 258 yards quartering away at a "management" buck (horns were really messed up). The 150 grain Silver Ballistic Tip factory load did a great job stopping that buck. I will probably use the 30-06 barrel at the beginning of the season then switch to the 7mm barrel later. Eventually I want to get me a lighter rifle for the short shots and the deep hardwood hunting.
Is this all I need?
7mm Rem Mag barrel (duh!)
Muzzle brake
bolt face (with all parts, ejectors, etc)
magazine (I have not try it but I think I can use the magazine it has, I do have an extra magazine in case mods are needed.)
barrel nut (to make it a switch barrel the old barrel will keep the barrel nut attached to preserve headspace)
go/no go gauge (I have a couple of brass shells from one of the guys 7mm Rem Mag that was built by a reputable smith. I will probably use those)
Wish list:
As I mention earlier, I want to keep the poi from shifting much (or any) from a cold barrel shot to a warm barrel shot and to have the tightest groups I can. Keeping the shooter off the equation the barrel quality and the contour should be the biggest factors to achieve this. I will believe a varmint contour or heavier barrel will suit the bill. We don't do any still hunting and generally the average walk to the hunting spot is under 300 yards, I will say in my case no longer than 600 yards easy walk so weight is a factor but I would probably side with accuracy. I also want a muzzle brake to help with the recoil and keep my target on scope as much as possible. Getting the barrel from the same shop that can install the brake will be the ideal and I will probably side with that even if the price is somewhat higher.
Do you have to send the entire gun to have the brake installed or just the barrel?
Next is the scope base and rings. As of now I have a 20 MOA base and high QRW rings. This setup has the scope sitting over 2 inches high. If I revert to a 0 MOA base and medium rings I am sure that even with a heavy barrel contour and the 50mm objective of this scope I can get this scope considerably lower. I dislike aluminum bases, I just dont trust them so I want to stay away from that. I want to keep a set up similar if not the same of what I have as I would like to be able to remove the scope from the base and return it and retain the zero as practicable as it can be. It dont have to be a quick release, I dont see me changing a scope in the field and I like the idea of using a torque tool to make sure I have tight the screws correctly. I think is easier to change scopes between rifles if I use a Weaver/Picatinny set, specially if I end up switching scopes for different type of hunting (predator) which might be close in the future.
I should stay with a Weaver or Picatinny style bases/rings?
Has anyone encounter any issues as the scope shifting possible using this setup?
Now to the action. I have read a bit about truing and tuning your action and it sounds like it dont have much direct effect on accuracy. It will make the action smoother or even a "joy" to use but not add much if any to the accuracy. It does not seems to be much money but if I can help it I would like to avoid shipping my action anywhere as this complicates things much...
Without starting a debate, Will truing and tuning the action on this rifle have a DIRECT and significant effect on accuracy at 400 yards?
The other wish is to make this rifle a switch barrel. To do this (as I have read) you have to jam the barrel nut to the barrel to keep that headspace setting. I have also read that when done properly the poi from each barrel will not significantly shift. I understand that after many switches the head space could change due to the deformation of the threads but that is not a huge worry and I will have a way to check that. I will probably have to modify the stock to allow the barrel to be removed (make the barrel channel wider), modify a barrel nut tool and if I don't have enough clearance I will have to remove the scope.
Anyone has experience switching barrels this way or any other way?
Do they keep their POI?
Lastly but not least... 7mm Rem Magnum reloading dies (fl, bullet seating, neck size and bullet crimping(probably later). I am planing on shooting 140 to 160 grain bullets from Nosler on this rifle.
Any die set I need to avoid?
Budget:
$750 barrel+brake
$200 action work (if needed)
$150 Dies
What are your recommendations on:
barrels/brakes
action work
base/rings
reloading dies
Thanks!!!!
Since the deer season is about over I'm starting the planing/budgeting face of this project. What I like to do is present what I want to do and hear the experience from others as far as equipment, procedures and etc... so I can plan this better.
As far as my experience "gun smithing"... I done light work on firearms. I can disassemble every firearm I have to the basic components to clean and put them back. I have polished many triggers, do one barrel replacement on this savage and reload as well. I do all my mechanics (car, atv, boat) and have a degree in electronic engineering. I like to think I am good with my hands and my brain (the days it switches on, lol).
This rifle started as a 110 30-06/synthetic stock/Bushnell scope combo that I bought at Walmart or Kmart about 10 to 12 years ago.
This is how the rifle stands today.
Its a flat rear receiver.
Long action
A&B 30-06 Sporter contour 1-10 26" Barrel (pretty much the same as what came with the rifle)
rifle basix SAV-2 trigger
Choate Varmint stock
LimbSaver Grind to fit recoil pad
Leupold VIII 4.5x10x50mm Illuminated reticle 30mm tube
Leupold 30mm Quick-Release Weaver-Style Rings
Warne 20 MOA Steel 1-Piece Tactical Picatinny-Style Scope Base Savage 110
After market Large Shank Recoil Lug (dont remember the maker but it was $20 some)
At a 100 yds with the A&B 30-06 barrel and reloads this rifle shots under an inch all the time after warming up and the best groups are about .518". The cold barrel initial shot is a bit over an inch from the warm groups. I know this is no a huge deal for hunting which is the primary use of the rifle but it does bugs me. I want to have another caliber to hunt and would like to have a gun that the impact from a cold barrel and hot barrel shots are closer if not the same. The budget will restrict me from building a BR rifle out of it but I plan to get as close as I can to a BR rifle as my budget allows me. Would like to spend most of the money on the items that will affect the accuracy the most and be a little more restrained on any item that will not markedly improve accuracy (if there is such a thing....). We have plenty of "long shot" opportunities where I hunt and their range up to 400 yards but most of my favorites spots will keep the shooting under the 350 yards. At the beginning of the season shorter shots with ample opportunities and relaxed deer are more of a norm (under 150 yards, deer taking it's time when in open areas) but as the season progresses the deer gets very attentive to its surrounding, they don't hang around as long in an open area and the long shots (over 200 yds) become the norm. My longer shot to date is 258 yards quartering away at a "management" buck (horns were really messed up). The 150 grain Silver Ballistic Tip factory load did a great job stopping that buck. I will probably use the 30-06 barrel at the beginning of the season then switch to the 7mm barrel later. Eventually I want to get me a lighter rifle for the short shots and the deep hardwood hunting.
Is this all I need?
7mm Rem Mag barrel (duh!)
Muzzle brake
bolt face (with all parts, ejectors, etc)
magazine (I have not try it but I think I can use the magazine it has, I do have an extra magazine in case mods are needed.)
barrel nut (to make it a switch barrel the old barrel will keep the barrel nut attached to preserve headspace)
go/no go gauge (I have a couple of brass shells from one of the guys 7mm Rem Mag that was built by a reputable smith. I will probably use those)
Wish list:
As I mention earlier, I want to keep the poi from shifting much (or any) from a cold barrel shot to a warm barrel shot and to have the tightest groups I can. Keeping the shooter off the equation the barrel quality and the contour should be the biggest factors to achieve this. I will believe a varmint contour or heavier barrel will suit the bill. We don't do any still hunting and generally the average walk to the hunting spot is under 300 yards, I will say in my case no longer than 600 yards easy walk so weight is a factor but I would probably side with accuracy. I also want a muzzle brake to help with the recoil and keep my target on scope as much as possible. Getting the barrel from the same shop that can install the brake will be the ideal and I will probably side with that even if the price is somewhat higher.
Do you have to send the entire gun to have the brake installed or just the barrel?
Next is the scope base and rings. As of now I have a 20 MOA base and high QRW rings. This setup has the scope sitting over 2 inches high. If I revert to a 0 MOA base and medium rings I am sure that even with a heavy barrel contour and the 50mm objective of this scope I can get this scope considerably lower. I dislike aluminum bases, I just dont trust them so I want to stay away from that. I want to keep a set up similar if not the same of what I have as I would like to be able to remove the scope from the base and return it and retain the zero as practicable as it can be. It dont have to be a quick release, I dont see me changing a scope in the field and I like the idea of using a torque tool to make sure I have tight the screws correctly. I think is easier to change scopes between rifles if I use a Weaver/Picatinny set, specially if I end up switching scopes for different type of hunting (predator) which might be close in the future.
I should stay with a Weaver or Picatinny style bases/rings?
Has anyone encounter any issues as the scope shifting possible using this setup?
Now to the action. I have read a bit about truing and tuning your action and it sounds like it dont have much direct effect on accuracy. It will make the action smoother or even a "joy" to use but not add much if any to the accuracy. It does not seems to be much money but if I can help it I would like to avoid shipping my action anywhere as this complicates things much...
Without starting a debate, Will truing and tuning the action on this rifle have a DIRECT and significant effect on accuracy at 400 yards?
The other wish is to make this rifle a switch barrel. To do this (as I have read) you have to jam the barrel nut to the barrel to keep that headspace setting. I have also read that when done properly the poi from each barrel will not significantly shift. I understand that after many switches the head space could change due to the deformation of the threads but that is not a huge worry and I will have a way to check that. I will probably have to modify the stock to allow the barrel to be removed (make the barrel channel wider), modify a barrel nut tool and if I don't have enough clearance I will have to remove the scope.
Anyone has experience switching barrels this way or any other way?
Do they keep their POI?
Lastly but not least... 7mm Rem Magnum reloading dies (fl, bullet seating, neck size and bullet crimping(probably later). I am planing on shooting 140 to 160 grain bullets from Nosler on this rifle.
Any die set I need to avoid?
Budget:
$750 barrel+brake
$200 action work (if needed)
$150 Dies
What are your recommendations on:
barrels/brakes
action work
base/rings
reloading dies
Thanks!!!!