Poor accuracy from 12LPV in 204

[Smokepole]

Haven't had a problem w either of the solvents I stated. The BR Hoppes is much stronger though. It'll run you out of the room if you're not careful. People put way too much emphasis on cleaning techniques and solvents; pick your poison and go with it. A bronze brush and JB will surely remove the most fouling, and it'll remove the most steel as well. That's the reason I steer clear of it unless I've already tried everything else. To each his own.

I have found that practically all of my factory barrels shoot better dirty. They're wild after a good cleaning and especially so if I oiled the bore before storage.

[HOEING8]

Thanks for the cleaning suggestions from everyone. Maybe this weekend I'll find time to get something a little more aggressive than the hoppes elite. I think I'll try to track down some sweet's and get a brush.

Oldguy, I wouldn't have touched the rifle before shooting it, but the ding in the crown was too much to ignore.

Listening to you guys has got me really excited about doing some reloading. Another question though, all of the endorsements for seating .05-.07 off the lands has me wondering where the factory ammo is putting me in this respect. Any guesses?

BTW, great forum you have here. I never dreamed I'd get this many responses in such a short amount of time. I had no idea there were so many Savage enthusiasts.

[oldguy]

Oldguy, I wouldn't have touched the rifle before shooting it, but the ding in the crown was too much to ignore.

I fully understand and it wasn't meant as criticism but passing along my mistakes I've learned over 50 years
of shooting, I simply bring them home, clean and shoot I won't remove them from stock(rifle) prior to shooting, in my opinion quality control across the board is not the best in modern manufacturing and I
like to know if mistakes are mine or the manufacturer.

[82boy]

Thanks for the cleaning suggestions from everyone. Maybe this weekend I'll find time to get something a little more aggressive than the hoppes elite. I think I'll try to track down some sweet's and get a brush.

If you get Sweets make sure you stop by the auto parts store and get a aerosol can of break clean or carb cleaner. Sweets (And other coper cleaners) are hard on brushes. (You may want to use it outside or when the wife is out, it has a take your breath away ammonia smell) After brushing with them I take the brush and spray it out good with the carb cleaner. My brushes last a long time doing this. I would still say you need something to cut the carbon, Sweets is not the best on it. I would look for RB17, TM solution, shooters choice, wipe outs carb out, or something to get the carbon. I like RB17.

[dcloco]

Do not use standard primers with the 204! You need a heavier (thicker) primer cup to prevent piercing the primers! BR4 and MAgnum primers have thicker cups.

Keith


..Never had a problem with 205M's with 30.1grs of BLC under a 39gr Sie...


205Ms are thicker than standard primers, but not as thick as magnums. I believe it goes std.=0.019", 205M only=0.0225", mag. or br.=0.025"........uh, I think?


Clahoun did the work for us:

http://www.jamescalhoon.com/primers_and_pressure.php


Manufacturer Number A B C
Cup Cup Cup
Thickness Diameter Height

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Small Rifle
CCI 400 .020" .1753" .109"
450 .025" .1750" .113"
BR4 .025" .1755" .109"
Federal 200 .019" .1757" .111"
205M .0225" .1744" .1075"
Remington 6 1/2 .020" .1753" .109"
7 1/2 .025" .1752" .110"
Winchester SR .021" .1750" .109"
Large Rifle
CCI 200 .027" .2112" .118"
250 .027" .2113" .118"
Federal 210 .027" .2120" .117"
215 -- -- --
Remington 9 1/2 .027" .2100" .119"
Winchester LR .027" .2114" .121"
Mag .027" .2114" .121"

[HOEING8]

A little update.

Made it to Bass Pro and picked up some shooter's choice MC#7 and their extra strength copper remover. Brushed the bore using the MC7 and a bronze brush, then followed with some patches of copper remover. I got next nothing extra out of the barrel. It appears that it was pretty clean before. I went ahead and pushed my lead slug through the tight spot (took a little extra oomph but it went through). Then I drove another slug in just short of the tight spot, took them out and measured both. They both measured in the .2036-.2038 range, depending on which groove I was measuring and how I held my mouth when I measured. So even though there is a tight spot, I'm no longer very concerned about it.

I also ordered some 39gr BK's, Remington 7.5's, and a couple lb's of VV N530. A Lee cast iron classic and some collet neck sizing dies (along with a bunch of other nickel and dime stuff that really adds up!) are also on their way.

I'll report back as soon as I have some results!

Tim

[HOEING8]

It's been awhile, but I thought I'd post an update. I haven't had a chance to shoot any handloads yet, but in the meantime I decided to bed the action of my rifle. I noticed that tightening the front action screw would lift the tang a noticeable amount. Tightening the rear screw would then pull it back down. I don't know if this was contributing to my accuracy problems but it couldn't hurt to have it fixed. While researching how to bed a Savage action I came across a writeup of a rifle on 6mmbr that had a barrel block. Looked like a good idea to me so I decided to make one for my rifle. Here are the results.

http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af100/hoeing8/Barrel%20Block/BARRELBLOCK002.jpg

http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af100/hoeing8/Barrel%20Block/BARRELBLOCK004.jpg

http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af100/hoeing8/Barrel%20Block/BARRELBLOCK006.jpg

http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af100/hoeing8/Barrel%20Block/BARRELBLOCK007.jpg


I don't know if this was a good way to go about it, but I'll let you know after I get a chance to shoot it.

[docsleepy]

Which Gander did you get this from?

[TnTom]

when you aligned the barrel in the steady rest the run out was .006" - .008" tir was that ID or OD. the bore has to run true and the crown must be square to the bore if the id is running out the face is not square. There's no forgiveness in that area.

How did you break in the barrel?

I'd double check the the forward pillar and be sure its not below the wood at all. It must come in contact with the bottom of the action. Torque in my opinion also make a big difference. Using a cigarette paper (rolling paper) see if you have .003" - .004" clearance all around the tang and along side the action, it should be free. The tang can bind at the grip and thats NO GOOD. Check it again after you torque it. #30lbs works for me.

[HOEING8]

I got the gun at the Gander on the north side of Indy.

The OD of the barrel ran true in the steady rest, so the crown I cut is square to and concentric with the OD. I stuck a gage pin in the bore after indicating in the OD and saw the runout there. The bore isn't concentric with the OD from the factory. I put a flat, recessed crown on it to minimize the error.

[HOEING8]

I guess you guys are being polite by not telling me how awful it looks?

Just think - no one will ever accuse my Savage of being ugly because of the barrel nut!