Winchester brass

[fgw_in_fla]

Reuse them for practice. When it counts and you absolutely positively have to get the shot off, use the good stuff.

Nobody's cheaper than me so I understand hating to throw away good / usable components.

And stay with the CCI or Tula primers and you won't have to worry about loose fitting primers. When you have new brass or lightly used brass, use the "whatever else you got on hand" primers.
And whatever you do, don't take any used brass from Deano. The pockets will be sooooo stretched out, you'll need shotgun primers with epoxy to keep them in.

[yotehtr1]

Lol likes hot loads does he! Is there no big change in accuracy or point of impact switching back n forth between primers? Not like I wouldn't double check zero but curious how much different primers change where your bullets hitting.

[fgw_in_fla]

No variations in point of impact noted when I used the semi-used primers.

I still have a few hundred in stash. I used them for general purpose ammo & playing around in the jungle. Just in case some of them decide not to fire. It would really suck rocks to have a few hundred pounds of wild pork in front of me and the round doesn't torch off.

[yotehtr1]

Incase anybody else has this problem I ended up changing over to cci primers and that completely solved the problem. Where the winchester primers fit loose the cci's went in nice and firm. Thanks for the suggestions on that guys it worked out great!

[GaCop]

some primers just seat easier than others and some harder than others...I would not be concerned
unless i was getting gas blow back around them.. +1!

[yotehtr1]

Ya surprised me there was that much difference. The cci's seated very nice and tight.

[sixonetonoffun]

Culled some 7mm rm cases today. Had to give this post a read. Am thinking of trying that little anvil-punch thingy. But the reviews at Midaway were not so good. Anyone besides Dean getting positive results? Seems like a shame to weed out cases that are otherwise just getting broke in.

[yotehtr1]

Culled some 7mm rm cases today. Had to give this post a read. Am thinking of trying that little anvil-punch thingy. But the reviews at Midaway were not so good. Anyone besides Dean getting positive results? Seems like a shame to weed out cases that are otherwise just getting broke in.

I didnt have to try it the cci primers solved my problem. I saw that tool had alot of reviews claiming the durability was poor but im sure a guy that actually uses it could give you more info on that. Good concept if it works though.

[scope eye]

DryBean has one for sale in the classifieds 20 bucks shipped,

Dean

[jonbearman]

I will bet he is using Winchester primers and the cci or wolf/tula would be way better. I am on the fence on the hart tool. If it were me loading for the .22-250 I would seriously use Remington brass and be aware that you need to rework your loads up from the starting point. I use all brands but lapua and norma are best but just for average reloading to hunt I wouldn't waste the money on premium brass. Instead I would invest more time learning to avoid mistakes. Please post your actual load and if it is 38.0 grains of h380 with a 55 grain bullet,that can be an over pressure in any gun. yes I said it,the all time hodgdon load is too hot in some guns and a lot of guys jump right on it for speed. Now I would stick to book loads not something off the internet initially. When you get more experience then you will know if a given load is culpable. You ALWAYS WORK UP AND NEVER START HOT AS ALL CHAMBERS ARE UNIQUE.WHAT IS SAFE IN MY GUN WILL NOT BE SAFE IN YOUR GUN. Sorry but caps spell out safety ,safety,safety period. speed and high pressure can cause catastrophic injury or death. Enough of that,if you need help PM me.

[yotehtr1]

Im not sure if your talking to me but i agree you work loads up. I didnt get loose pockets because I just decided to start at max charge. As a matter of fact i start at the bottom of the published data in the reloading manual and work up in .5g increments. Ive never really been all that concerned with speed. If it doesnt group who cares how fast it groups like crap? I have shot 38 grains of h380 and considering 37 grains is the starting load in my new nosler manual for the 50 grain bullet I was trying (at the time) I believe I did start at 38 grains and never got any pressure signs and was nowhere close to the 41 grain max charge.

[fgw_in_fla]

A good point Jon makes about Rem brass. I get the most amount of use from Rem brass & consistent accuracy using Federal brass. After I find the sweet spot using Remington, I fine tune it with Federal.
I found out during my many marathon '06 shooting sessions, Fed will give me better consistency / accuracy but after 2 to 3 uses I had to switch from WLR's to CCI 200's. After 6 to 8 uses, much of the Federal brass was ready for retirement.
Rem brass seemed to stay tight in the primer pocket for 5 to 7 firings and some of my Rem brass has been fired 12 times. I also treat it to an annealing about every 3 firings or so.

Then there's Win brass. If I had ANY trouble with brass it was almost always Winchester. Splits in the case neck after one firing of a brand new bag 'o brass, the dreaded "faint white line" near the case head after 2 or 3 uses, inconsistent neck thickness and my favorite - Case splits open in the chamber. I've invented a few new curse words from using Win brass.
I use Win brass after load development and then go shoot someplace where I may not be able to retrieve all the spent cases. If they don't make it home, ain't no thang.
When I clean, prep & size my brass I tend to pay a little extra attention to the Win brass. I won't throw any away If it's still usable but I'm to the point where I'm leery of it.
Just a little info from yer 'ol Uncle Frank.