need to rework loads after ptg bolt head?

[Steelhead]

My savage 11 cratered any and all loads including factory.

Put int a PTG bolt head and all is good.

i didn't have to alter my load but did have to re do headspace.

[sharpshooter]

Before you commit to a new bolt head, I would re-contour the firing pin tip to a less than full radius and reset the protrusion to .035".

[Wide Glide]

Before you commit to a new bolt head, I would re-contour the firing pin tip to a less than full radius and reset the protrusion to .035".

That was mentioned in the thread I was linked to but I didn't understand how it needed to be reshaped from what was posted

[sharpshooter]

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y48/sharp-shooter/firingpintip.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/sharp-shooter/media/firingpintip.jpg.html)

[Wide Glide]

Now that makes it simple enough even for me.. I'll get to work on that asap and try to get to the range mon/Tues. Thanks

[foxx]

Before you commit to a new bolt head, I would re-contour the firing pin tip to a less than full radius and reset the protrusion to .035".

I don't know how a different bolt head would solve the problem, though it might. I can see how sharpshooter's solution would be less "destructive" to the primer. and certainly cheaper.

Besides, he's the man. Don't disregard anything he suggests about anything Savage.

[Wide Glide]

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y48/sharp-shooter/firingpintip.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/user/sharp-shooter/media/firingpintip.jpg.html)

i havent got to set protrusion yet its still at 0.051 but im curious if i've got the profile close to what it should be? i took quite a bit off and dont want to go too far

https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8400/28651175653_c21b03649b_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/KDNLk8)

[Robinhood]

The drawing implies that the firing pin in the fired position should be maximum diameter at the face of the bolt head. If I understand his contributions correctly, Fred asserts that anything more than .035 travel is wasted and is stopped prior to bottoming out and before the firing pin has met full travel. Not an expert but there may be a deeper lesson on primer ignition consistency in his post.

[airb080]

I noticed that you are using Winchester brass, how many loads do you have on them. I had a similar issue with my old model 110 in 30-06 with Winchester after about 4 reloads on the brass. The primer pocket started to get loose, and started to crater. I was using the same load nothing different. My RP brass is running at 10 loads and is still good, and my nosler is on it 6th load and no cratering. Have you tried using a different brand of brass? Just a suggestion before you go and tear your gun apart.

[Wide Glide]

The drawing implies that the firing pin in the fired position should be maximum diameter at the face of the bolt head. If I understand his contributions correctly, Fred asserts that anything more than .035 travel is wasted and is stopped prior to bottoming out and before the firing pin has met full travel. Not an expert but there may be a deeper lesson on primer ignition consistency in his post. unless I'm mistaken wouldn't that be done when setting protrusion? As I mentioned I haven't set protrusion yet, I was planning to do that after getting the shape right. Was I supposed to set protrusion first?


I noticed that you are using Winchester brass, how many loads do you have on them. I had a similar issue with my old model 110 in 30-06 with Winchester after about 4 reloads on the brass. The primer pocket started to get loose, and started to crater. I was using the same load nothing different. My RP brass is running at 10 loads and is still good, and my nosler is on it 6th load and no cratering. Have you tried using a different brand of brass? Just a suggestion before you go and tear your gun apart. brand new win brass. Even with used win brass in other I haven't had issues until 6+ firings and a small base body die would buy me another 3 or so before I would toss them. That was with very light loads of course

[sharpshooter]

You have to set the protrusion after the tip has been reworked, because you will lose a little once the tip has been re-contoured. Every quarter turn on the cocking piece is equal to .009". The firing pin will only penetrate the primer .025", so I always give slightly more for differences in headspace, .035" is enough for full ignition. Reducing the protrusion from the usual .055" will give you .020" more firing pin travel.

[Wide Glide]

Would you say this shape is about ready to start adjusting protrusion or flatten it more first?


https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8400/28651175653_c21b03649b_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/KDNLk8)

[LongRange]

i did two firing pins like this....this was a short action bolt...

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff515/LTT-/Mobile%20Uploads/1454250980.jpg (http://s1239.photobucket.com/user/LTT-/media/Mobile%20Uploads/1454250980.jpg.html)

this was a long action bolt...

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff515/LTT-/Mobile%20Uploads/1454184558.jpg (http://s1239.photobucket.com/user/LTT-/media/Mobile%20Uploads/1454184558.jpg.html)

i did mine backwards from what Fred is saying...i set the protrusion to .025-.030 and worked with the pin until the tip filled up the hole in the bolt head as much as it could with and then adjusted the protrusion to .030 and fine tuned the tip....take your time go slow and check often.

the short action bolt ended up at a final pin protrusion of .019 and the long action was .022 but i size my brass to fit tight in my chamber.

[Robinhood]

unless I'm mistaken wouldn't that be done when setting protrusion? As I mentioned I haven't set protrusion yet, I was planning to do that after getting the shape right. Was I supposed to set protrusion first?

My point was that you do not want your radius to go down the side of the pin more than the protrusion as the diameter of the pin at the boltface will be reduced and primer cratering will again be an issue.