Missing part PLEASE HELP!!!! 10 BA Stealth 6.5 Creedmoor

[Ted_Feasel]

Not sure I understand what an "anti-crush" washer does. Do you mean a crush washer?Maybe lol... I could have sworn when I ordered the ones for my rifles they called them anti-crush... maybe not

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

[Ted_Feasel]

Not sure I understand what an "anti-crush" washer does. Do you mean a crush washer?Actually your right it is just crush washer.. just went to the site I ordered it from and looked at past orders and it says crush

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

[wbm]

Last rifle I needed a washer for I was looking and I stumbled on a what was called. a "double crush" washer. Tried one. Worked really well.

[Adkhunter]

Yes, 5/8-24 is what you want for 6.5mm. I have a bunch of them. If you PM me, I can drop one in an envelope for you.

Thanks Dave I appreciate the friendly offer
Ordered one. if it’s the wrong one I might take you up on that offer!
Thank you!

[Robinhood]

Good Job Dave!!!

[Adkhunter]

Ok got the crush washer. It won’t line up properly. Perhaps a threaded one so I can back tighten it so the break is lined up perfectly?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Ted_Feasel]

Ok got the crush washer. It won’t line up properly. Perhaps a threaded one so I can back tighten it so the break is lined up perfectly?


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkPossibly got inside diameter to big? The inside diameter should be pretty close to outside diameter of barrel threads and yes, some do just get proper threaded size nut and use as a jam nut

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

[Ted_Feasel]

Ok got the crush washer. It won’t line up properly. Perhaps a threaded one so I can back tighten it so the break is lined up perfectly?


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkCan you post a picture?? The crush washer is designed so you can crush it down (tighten) to where your break/hider etc line the way you need/like

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

[Ted_Feasel]

Ok got the crush washer. It won’t line up properly. Perhaps a threaded one so I can back tighten it so the break is lined up perfectly?


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkLike in the picture I posted of my hider, when the hider seated it was still about 1/8th turn from being lined up perfectly but as you torque down thAt washer will flatten so you can get it tightened where it needs to be

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

[mnbogboy2]

Can you post a picture?? The crush washer is designed so you can crush it down (tighten) to where your break/hider etc line the way you need/like

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

+1 on Ted's comment. Once you make contact continue to tighten until clocking is reached. This should not take an over-abundance of torque. If it seems like too much torque then it probably is not what you need. One of my brakes came with a shim kit for proper clocking. To me they were a PITA that's why I went to jam nuts.

[Ted_Feasel]

+1 on Ted's comment. Once you make contact continue to tighten until clocking is reached. This should not take an over-abundance of torque. If it seems like too much torque then it probably is not what you need. One of my brakes came with a shim kit for proper clocking. To me they were a PITA that's why I went to jam nuts.I may try a jam nut one of these times. I have vice blocks for uppers, lowers, barrels but I could definitely see how a jam nut could be easier, especially if you didnt have vices... thank you for the +1 [emoji3]

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

[mnbogboy2]

Your welcome

[Dave Hoback]

Ok got the crush washer. It won’t line up properly. Perhaps a threaded one so I can back tighten it so the break is lined up perfectly?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Adkhunter, just wondering if you got it sorted out? You mentioned the brake not lining up. As stated, once the brake is snug against the washer, you must continue to tighten to correctly clock the brake. Again as said, this ultimately “crushes” the washer(this is why it is called a CRUSH washer). This action is what provides the force necessary to keep the brake from loosening.

What we all failed to mention was the force required to crush the washer enough for the brake to be clocked correctly. A barrel Vice makes this easy. Being that most people do not own a barrel vice, you can make a crude version that is actually very effective. Get a piece of 2x4 approx. 4” long and drill a hole slightly smaller than the diameter of your rifle’s barrel, in the center. Then cut the 2x4 in half and place one piece on each side of the barrel. Now clamp the whole setup in a bench vice within a few inches from the muzzle. Tighten the vice enough so the barrel will not spin in the 2x4 halves while you continue to tighten the brake to the desired position.

A little “Basement Gunsmithing” for you.

[Adkhunter]

That’s a great idea. Thank you!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk