Scopes - am I doing it wrong?

[Vinton]

Alot of scopes - including cheaper ones - have adjustable eye-relief on the near end of the tube, separate from the magnification ring - are you certain that yours doesn't have this ability? I have a cheap $160 Bushnell on my Savage 110, and it has about 1.4" of eye relief adjustment through turning the large end by your eye
I do not see any adjustment on the eye relief.

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[Stumpkiller]

The eyepiece is in a tube that tapers down. At the leading edge (the end away from the eye) there is a knurled ring (closer to you than the magnification ring). Hold the knurled ring and turn the eyepiece bell counter clockwise. The knurled ring can then be backed off (towards the muzzle) and you will be able to screw the eyepiece bell in and out to get a good sight picture. The turn the locking ring clockwise to lock the bell in place.

Note it will a also change the "focus" of the crosshairs so you can't get much change before it will give a blurry crosshair image. You don't want that. Usually the plan is to adjust the scope in the rings and then fine tune with the procedure mentioned above to "focus" the crosshairs in the image field.

[Robinhood]

Alot of scopes - including cheaper ones - have adjustable eye-relief on the near end of the tube, separate from the magnification ring - are you certain that yours doesn't have this ability? I have a cheap $160 Bushnell on my Savage 110, and it has about 1.4" of eye relief adjustment through turning the large end by your eye


Um that is the focus adjustment..... on all scopes

[Fotheringill]

How do you eject? No joke intended. If you go with a rail, make sure the round is not going to smack into the bottom of the rail on ejection. If you reload, you might be spending a lot of money on new brass. For example, CZ's eject on a higher arc than any other rifle I have used.

[mnbogboy2]

Most, if not all, rails allow "clean" ejection, because of the bolt design. Some of the weaver style rails have extra clearance built in, which helps with top loading.
The one piece rail often makes top loading a little more clumsy, especially with the newer centerfeed magazines (the older stagger feed mags seem to load easier).

[Sponxx]

While they don't allow windage adjustments, the Burris Signature Zee rings will allow the scope to self center in misaligned rings. Windage and elevation can also be adjusted by the use of the inserts. I use them on my centerfires.
The only downside is that they do not come in low, just med and high.

[Fotheringill]

It appears to be eye relief. In the picture posted above, you can, on a push, get about 3/4" of forward movement of the scope. A long rail would give you more freedom of placement. Also, you may want higher rings rather than those lower down.

[DaveZ]

This is good advice.
I had a factory mounted scope on a Savage Axis and when I got to the range I couldn't get a decent grouping.
Found that the base mount screws weren't tightened down, much less torqued to the receiver.
Took the rifle back home and removed everything and used some acetone to clean the threads, broke out the locktite and started to assemble back up.

Dave

[azguy]

For scopes with no Parallax adjustment many shooters adjust their eye relief so that a scope shadow shows around the scope to assure their eye is centered in the scope.

[Benmuncie]

Weaver 420M is a low profile, one piece base for your rifle. I have one and it works great for me because I like to keep my scopes close to the barrel. It has a half moon cutout for loading rounds.

[Texas10]

A common problem with many, including Savage front scope ring base holes is that a too long screw will bottom out against the barrel tenon threads, and not tighten the scope ring base to the action as it should. To check for this error, remove the scope and rings, and rear screw on the front base, and see if the base is still tight. If loose, remove the screw and get a shorter one, or shorten it by grinding off a thread or two until you can torque it (20 INCH pounds) and the base is tight. Use a thread setting compound like LockTite on all ring and rail mounting screws.

[LHitchcox]

I think you can get a longer front base. One that would over hang the front of the ejection port by about 1/8"-3/16th. The one piece base is definitely stronger.

A Weaver base #402 will allow the scope to move up to an inch toward the shooter. If I were buying the Weaver #402, I would also replace the rear base with a Weaver #46 use to be sure the height of both is the same.

[Newtosavage]

I think you can get a longer front base. One that would over hang the front of the ejection port by about 1/8"-3/16th. The one piece base is definitely stronger.

I'm always trying to shave weight off my hutning rifles, so that's what I use - the Weaver base with the extended portion on the front of the receiver. That allows me a little room to position the scope forward and back.

I also agree about checking and replacing the factory mounts. I've never kept a single Savage factory mount and I've pulled a bunch off my buddy's rifles over the years to fix their shooting issues. It's disappointing to me, that inexpensive as quality bases and mounts are, Savage continues to put NON-WEAVER COMPATIBLE steel bases and POS rings on their package rifles. Their rifles and the package Nikon scopes deserve better. In every case where I've had or seen a problem, the bases and rings were literally the weak link. I would never trust those and definitely wouldn't trust that they were mounted correctly by someone at the factory, much less bore sighted anywhere close.

Get used to doing your own research and work on your rifle, and you will be very happy in the long run. You have a great rifle and a very good scope. That's the expensive stuff. The rest is cheap and easy to replace.

[Vinton]

Thank you for all of your suggestions. I will go with a weaver one piece base to give me the adjustability you have suggested.

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