Same idea..but using Titanium & Tungsten Carbide. (Pics)

[Robinhood]

When I added My 38 spcl & ball, the added length was .079”. I took that amount off the back of the cocking sleeve. It works fine.

Did I do wrong ?

The only thing you could have done was weaken or distort the sleeve. If you didn't, I can't see why it would be wrong. .079 is thin. Must have used a 5/32 ball.

[jkv45]

I just completed doing the .357 case with a 5/32 ball "lift kit" mod, and used a brass washer to space the BAS to compensate for the case/ball thickness. I didn't want to make a permanent change quite yet, so that's why I used a washer instead of removing material from the BAS.

As far as improvement goes, I wouldn't say it's dramatic. The tests (https://www.savageshooters.com/content.php?126-Understanding-Bolt-Lift-Kits) done with the single bearing showed about a 2 in/lb reduction to 18 in/lb from the stock 20 in/lb cocking effort - a 10% reduction.

That's just about what I would estimate the reduction was (10%). Not bad, but not that significant IMO.

[Dave Hoback]

You are correct. The lift kit alone helps, but won’t make it like mine is now. Other items are an extended bolt handle, polishing the ramp & softening the top edge of the bolt, where the cocking pin travels, and adjusting cocking pin .080” OFF the edge @ bottom travel. All these together will give a very smooth, and easily operated bolt with minimal effort. I do have a modified firing pin spring as well, although I’m looking for replacement other than clipped stock spring.


Another thing guys...I’m not trying to reinvent the wheel here. I know so much of this has been done by others. These are simply little projects I do to occupy the bit of time I may have from day to day, without mind numbing pain. That’s all. None of this is to sell as we talked of, it’s just not cost effective. Machining Titanium & Tungsten is major PITA! But has a “coolness” factor is all.

I’m no professional manufacturer guys. I don’t have a business or even an FFL. I’m just a pretty darn capable gunsmith/builder and machinist. A hobbyist....but it’s all I do! I like sharing what I know & can do, with other enthusiasts.

[jkv45]

You are correct. The lift kit alone helps, but won’t make it like mine is now. Other items are an extended bolt handle, polishing the ramp & softening the top edge of the bolt, where the cocking pin travels, and adjusting cocking pin .080” OFF the edge @ bottom travel. All these together will give a very smooth, and easily operated bolt with minimal effort. I do have a modified firing pin spring as well, although I’m looking for replacement other than clipped stock spring.


Another thing guys...I’m not trying to reinvent the wheel here. I know so much of this has been done by others. These are simply little projects I do to occupy the bit of time I may have from day to day, without mind numbing pain. That’s all. None of this is to sell as we talked of, it’s just not cost effective. Machining Titanium & Tungsten is major PITA! But has a “coolness” factor is all.

I’m no professional manufacturer guys. I don’t have a business or even an FFL. I’m just a pretty darn capable gunsmith/builder and machinist. A hobbyist....but it’s all I do! I like sharing what I know & can do, with other enthusiasts.
Thank you Dave. I appreciate the information and knowledge that you and others pass along at no gain for yourself.

I have the extended bolt handle, but need to learn a bit more about the additional mods. Do you know of a good link or article covering the others? I looked at the ramp and it didn't look rough. I don't want to overdue the grinding on the edge/peak of the ramp. Do you get the .080" off the edge by rotating the ring that the cocking collar engages?

Sure seems a lot of the force required is from fighting the firing pin spring pressure. I'd be interested in a lighter spring if one was located. I'm hesitant to start snipping the original spring or making changes that cannot be easily reversed.

[GrenGuy]

^ Then You can do what I did ^ I ordered a replacement firing pin & spring from Midway, in case My plans didn’t work out. I cut 2 1/2 coils off the original firing pin spring. This, plus smoothing, polishing, and the 38spl lift addition, made a world of improvement.

Anyone who wants to prove to themselves where the heavy Savage bolt lift comes from, can do so by simply removing the firing pin and spring, reassemble the bolt, and cycle it. It is obvious the spring is the major culprit.

The rifle functions better than ever, and no negatives have been detected.

[jkv45]

^ Then You can do what I did ^ I ordered a replacement firing pin & spring from Midway, in case My plans didn’t work out. I cut 2 1/2 coils off the original firing pin spring. This, plus smoothing, polishing, and the 38spl lift addition, made a world of improvement.

Anyone who wants to prove to themselves where the heavy Savage bolt lift comes from, can do so by simply removing the firing pin and spring, reassemble the bolt, and cycle it. It is obvious the spring is the major culprit.

The rifle functions better than ever, and no negatives have been detected.

Thanks - I may have to do that.

[Dave Hoback]

Thank you Dave. I appreciate the information and knowledge that you and others pass along at no gain for yourself.

I have the extended bolt handle, but need to learn a bit more about the additional mods. Do you know of a good link or article covering the others? I looked at the ramp and it didn't look rough. I don't want to overdue the grinding on the edge/peak of the ramp. Do you get the .080" off the edge by rotating the ring that the cocking collar engages?

Sure seems a lot of the force required is from fighting the firing pin spring pressure. I'd be interested in a lighter spring if one was located. I'm hesitant to start snipping the original spring or making changes that cannot be easily reversed.

Apologies for the delay jkv45. Although I did my own, I would never recommend modifying the spring. As for the cocking piece ramp, this needs a high degree of caution. I only know my own machining abilities & trust them. I will say only you can make the decision, but I always recommend to only do what you KNOW you can, based on your mechanical inclination.

Setting the pin .080” from the edge at bottom travel is accomplished by unscrewing the cocking piece from the firing pin. Doesn’t take much, and use a caliper to get the distance.
Here is a good picture showing the ramp. What I did was soften that “nub” on the corner, & polish the edge(as indicated). And it’s paramount to understand terms like “polish” & “soften”. Any form of metal removal can quickly lead to trouble.

https://i.ibb.co/3NcXny8/1693-C979-394-F-408-D-B2-FA-CF43-BCE05695.jpg (https://imgbb.com/)

[celltech]

I was the lucky recipient of Dave's double hardened BAS replacement! Just finished playing around with before/after cocking efforts. My bolt has the large OEM tactical handle installed and I used a trigger pull scale on the last notch of the handle to gauge the effort. From that reference point the cocking effort (shell in chamber with firing pin dropped) went from 6lbs to 5.5lbs...so close to the 10% drop that others have seen. Think I will polish the ramp next and see what that does. Thanks Dave!!!

[jkv45]

Apologies for the delay jkv45. Although I did my own, I would never recommend modifying the spring. As for the cocking piece ramp, this needs a high degree of caution. I only know my own machining abilities & trust them. I will say only you can make the decision, but I always recommend to only do what you KNOW you can, based on your mechanical inclination.

Setting the pin .080” from the edge at bottom travel is accomplished by unscrewing the cocking piece from the firing pin. Doesn’t take much, and use a caliper to get the distance.
Here is a good picture showing the ramp. What I did was soften that “nub” on the corner, & polish the edge(as indicated). And it’s paramount to understand terms like “polish” & “soften”. Any form of metal removal can quickly lead to trouble.



Thanks Dave.

I made the adjustment and carefully worked the ramp, and I'd say it was an improvement.

I haven't cut the firing pin spring, and probably won't right now. An aftermarket spring with closer to optimum rate seems like the next step.

[GrenGuy]

With where I am right now, everything is much improved, but the primary extraction seems to be the main culprit at this point.

If I get “the bump “ right, will it lessen the felt resistance on primary extraction ?

Fortunately, I have 2 spare bolt bodies, just in case ��

[Robinhood]

What "bump" are we talking about. Primary extraction is at the rear of the bolt. It is an interaction between the ramps on the bolt handle and the rear baffle. there is a normal gap between the rear baffle and the action. If it is too short you cant open the bolt easily due to the ramps engaging too early binding the bolt, where the lugs have not cleared the abutments before the ramp engages. Too long and there is no primary extraction due to the ramps not engaging soon enough or not at all.

[GrenGuy]

I have smoothed the areas of which You speak, but I am feeling the most resistance at that point (primary extraction).

[Dave Hoback]

As I said, there is no “one” item that will make a full difference. It’s a combination of lift kit, smoothing/polishing, slightly less spring preload & mechanical advantage of longer bolt handle.

Glad and I can help a few guys out, even if just a bit.

[BigBabyMoses06]

I'd totally pay someone to make my action that smooth and light as yours Dave. Is it reliable? I did notice in shooting this past weekend that my kit did make a difference when shooting, but it was much more difficult to notice at home dry firing.

[Dave Hoback]

Mine has been 100% reliable thus far. I see no reason for it not to continue.

[Robinhood]

I bet Dave would make yours work like his if you sent him the parts. He is a righteous dude.

[JeepsAndGuns]

I'd totally pay someone to make my action that smooth and light as yours Dave. Is it reliable? I did notice in shooting this past weekend that my kit did make a difference when shooting, but it was much more difficult to notice at home dry firing.

Sharp shooters supply.
You want the "time and true" service.
I have had 3 done and they all came back very smooth and a light bolt lift.