Are older barrels more prone to copper fouling?

[Robinhood]

Just a small warning for those contemplating CLR. It does eat carbon like crazy and i have cleaned many barrels with it.
On the other hand the "R" in the name is for rust. Gun blueing is controlled "rust". CLR loves blueing as it does carbon.
Be real careful with it around "blued" surfaces. Rinse it well with water, kroil, alcohol or whatever because it will get you if you are not careful (got me several times when i thought i was careful).
That's all, just a reminder.


Thanks MNbogboy. I should have mentioned that.

[charlie b]

It also has a mild acid in it so it does need something to neutralize it.

[PhilC]

Here's a pic of rust pitting in the bore of my 1957 110...

https://i.ibb.co/dgWjTqt/3006pitting.jpg

It hasn't been shot much over its lifetime and very little the past 25yrs it has been in my possession. It has been in my family since 1967 or early 1968.

[Robinhood]

Rust pitting is not necessarily the end of barrel accuracy, as long as you aren't shooting in matches, but if it were mine I'd be looking for answers. Rust pitting inside the barrel can be removed completely with electrolysis, which won't hurt the blueing. All you need is a battery charger, a steel rod that will fit loosely inside the barrel so that it doesn't touch the barrel ( use tape, o-rings, etc to keep it from touching) and some Arm and Hammer wash soda from Wally World.

Just to be clear, I would only use this in a stainless barrel for the removal of carbon and copper. It is a viable cheap low odor option for cleaning a rifle barrel. My CLR suggestion was not for the removal of rust. The nature of my hobby puts SS tubes on all of my equipment. Anything that uses CS for the tube shoots about 10 rds a year maximum and if it needs excessive cleaning from that it is removed and replaced. The mistake was where my mind led me to believe that most people see the world as I do. This has never been the truth and reading many responses shows evidence of the oppositte. :)

Chive on.

[Robinhood]

Good to know. I have a Shaw barrel in 308 that's been a "copper mine" from day one. I have close to 250 rounds through the barrel and after a 15 round range cession, I can see heavy copper streaks in the grooves. I'm using Wipe Out and then bore paste to get the bore clean after every range cession.


Shaw's are all accurate albeit copper mines.

[mnbogboy2]

Lots of good posts on this thread with great info.
Wish we had our "LIKE" button back because all these posts would have earned them from me.

[JeepsAndGuns]

While they can create a love/hate relationship when it comes to cleaning, an inexpensive Teslong ($49) is tough to beat for a clear, crisp visual images approaching that of the Hawkeye. I bought one not because I was concerned with my cleaning process more so I could see what a barrel looked like when "clean" and shooting well. It's just a tool like my cleaning rod, solvent, etc.

I bought the same teslong bore scope and love it. Well worth the money in my opinion. That is how I found the issue I was having with that one barrel I had (that I linked to above). Without the bore scope, I would have not been able to find out what was going on in that barrel.

[PhilC]

I bought the same teslong bore scope and love it. Well worth the money in my opinion. That is how I found the issue I was having with that one barrel I had (that I linked to above). Without the bore scope, I would have not been able to find out what was going on in that barrel.
They are. What I didn't know at the time, but learned not long after, is loosening the lock collar behind the mirror allows user focus control. Then I found a separate mirror pack ($20) with additional caliber specific mirrors for ultra clear pics. :thumb:

[GaCop]

Shaw's are all accurate albeit copper mines. AMEN to that!