?? Boyds pro varm. - no pillar/bedding (thoughts) ??

[Dave Hoback]

I’ve known some to do that...just the front. But the fact remains doing BOTH from/rear Action screws takes away all doubt. It’s important that NO gap is present between receiver bed & Action. I even did a skim bedding on my MDT Chassis.

To the OP, I hear what you are saying about “playing” with action screw torque. I’ve already touched on this; we are battling the harmonics BECAUSE of creep, not in spite of it. As long as the mating between Action & Stock is solid & void of creep, it would not matter if you strapped a TUNING FORK to the Action, LOL!

[ice tea]

JW - thank you for the explanation. Looking at the area my top bolt release lever needs for clearance vs the amount Boyds milled out of my right rear support pad, the amount material removed, is excessive. Looking at google pics of bottom bolt release, it appears the stocks void or button for release, is centered at front of trigger guard. That makes me wonder, if, maybe, the stocks made for bottom bolt release, might have both complete rear support pads, and the void/hole, would be more centered in stock? I'm not trying to argue w/ you that what your saying about rear supports role level in this, but I'm now wondering if I'd rather have a unneccessary hole in middle if it dont cause other issues, rather than the right rear support mostly missing?

HAMILTON - i agree from what I gather from videos, and whats being said. i love JB Weld, I've used it for multiple diff things over the yrs. the stuff is great. What my plan was, mount/shoot this one as is, for the 223. If I liked it, immediatly order another for the 308, and pillar and bed newset one from the get go. And, if successful happy, with the 308 pillar/bed, then I could come back, and do the .223/current stock I just received.

DAVE - thanks, I want no gap b/t reeiver bed and action w/o creep also. I wish I could post the pics of how little suport area I'm dealing w/ on back right. Last time I tried hard to post pics, I couldn't make them appear/upload. I might try again tommorrow.

[Dave Hoback]

Did you see my comments on using ImgBB to host pictures? It's really easy man. You don't need to join or even send them your email! Are you using a PC or your smart phone? I'm always online on my IPhone. But either way, just go here download your pics from the memory on your pc or phone drive. https://imgbb.com/ Then click the picture and on the left side under the picture will be a drop down arrow with the word "About" in front of the arrows. Click that. There will be several links. You want to copy the "BBCode" link. And paste it here. It's super easy! And doesn't cost the site wasted memory as it's "3rd party hosted".

[ice tea]

https://ibb.co/QdDXtM2
https://ibb.co/0jXh63q
https://ibb.co/PMPdGwT
https://ibb.co/tXDvNZt

Dave, thank you, I'm not too computer literate, and I just have a cheap laptop. I decided to try to fit/mount the thing. The rear safety tang, is making contact w/o any screw torque to speak of, so I take it, sanding the stock is the thing to do there? Bolt handle wont quite drop/lock, cuz some wood removal will be needed in front of handle, as the stocks notch is too far back. There is some sort of washer in front action screw hole, which i think is a hard plastic, its got a funny concave contour to it, not sure if thats right for a cap screw to seat, or if plastic is the thing to use there ? My savage "L" shaped clip thats slotted for rear action screw, needs to be forced in to hold mag assembly down, as box is a tight fit lengthwise. I will also need to probably use a dremel w/ a barrel shaped abrasive, to widen trigger guard valley. So, I'll do all that as spoke, unless someone has cautions/suggests diff/better ideas. Everything else looks to fit well. Thanks again for the pic posting help, as, I think this will be helpful even more to me, when I get to pillaring/bedding

[Dave Hoback]

Well, we need to see the Action in the stock to really understand it.

I'm wondering though, what is your reservation with it? Is it simply Aesthetics? Or are you concerned in some way?

[ice tea]

Good idea, I will try to get some pics of it tommorrow night of it mounted in the stock w/ screws finger tight. Function is the #1 concern, I'd like to keep it cosmetically nice, as long as it's practical, but don't want to go extremes to do so. thanks

[KMW1954]

ice tea, going to send a PM with a link.

[Dave Hoback]

As for function, you won’t have a problem. The sides of the stock inlet don’t “hold” the Action from going anywhere. It’s only the immediate bottom surface...not sure exactly, but only a small degree of the circumference from each of the Action screw center line.

I would absolutely 100% recommend bedding it though. There are dozens of epoxies and really any of well known brands work well. I use Devcon Plastic Steel https://www.amazon.com/Devcon-62345-Plastic-Steel-Epoxy/dp/B000H5S8KC/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Stock+bedding+epoxy&qid=1633910770&sr=8-1

Everyone here will tell you the same. You’ll be glad you did. It’s really the only way to prevent creep. Again, I’d push aluminum pillars as well, but at least the bedding.

[KMW1954]

With my Spike Camp stock I was having hard contact with the rear tang where the safety tab is. I have been told these Savage like that area free floated just as well as the barrel. I built up two layers of tape on the stock under the rear tang before I did my bedding. The bedding did make a tremendous difference in the way it shot. Your stock inletting looks exactly as mine did.

[Dave Hoback]

With my Spike Camp stock I was having hard contact with the rear tang where the safety tab is. I have been told these Savage like that area free floated just as well as the barrel. I built up two layers of tape on the stock under the rear tang before I did my bedding. The bedding did make a tremendous difference in the way it shot. Your stock inletting looks exactly as mine did.

Absolutly you are correct in that. The tang should be floated. About the space of a piece of card stock. Your tape trick works well also.

[KMW1954]

Thanks for that. I took a lot of mentoring from the folks at Shooters Forum and The High Road forums before attempting my first try. It actually took me two attempts to get it good. At that point I had nothing to loose because the stock Boyds sent wouldn't shoot worth a dam. Went from 2" groups at 200yds to 10" groups just from the stock change. This stock was purchased from Boyds Rapid Fire page so it was as-is, no returns.

But in my mind the stock purchase and then bedding work were worth the cost and the experience of doing this. Yes I would do it again and am actually right now working on a Richards Microfit stock for a Model 11.

[ice tea]

OK folks, here are some pics of it finger tight. Not sure of angles needed, or what your looking for, so I took alot, and can take more of diff angles if needed.

https://ibb.co/Y0PjkQQ

https://ibb.co/Tt4YVr6

https://ibb.co/Tt4YVr6

https://ibb.co/vqm1Dzm

https://ibb.co/kJZhmgx

https://ibb.co/zJHK8x2

https://ibb.co/3f9zHrJ

https://ibb.co/Vwn4sG1

https://ibb.co/GFtL86v

https://ibb.co/8XW3P7V

https://ibb.co/rFfzP3W

https://ibb.co/Xkp0g89

https://ibb.co/L5RWFk5

https://ibb.co/0s4k6bS

[KMW1954]

Very nice, thanks for sharing! I wanted a Pro Varmint but instead bought the Spike Camp because I'm cheap!

[Dave Hoback]

Good pictures. It’s fine man. No problem with it. Like I said, that area is not critical in preventing creep. The much bigger issue is bedding. I would also even the barrel channel. The gap between barrel & forearm is uneven in picture #6.

[ice tea]

OK, good, thank you guys for checking that out. On this rifle/223 , Id like to get it operational asap, so i can try out stock. If things are likeable, I will immediatly order another stock, for the 308, which i will plan to pillar/bed, before using. if successful/happy w that, i will come back to this rifle and do the same. So, to get this one temporarally operational, Id like to get the safety tang floated, as right now, its making contact to stock and screws arent even torqued. So I was thinking of laying in a layer or two of emery cloth, upside down b/t receiver and supports to shim it up? Sound good, or any thoughts of something else/better to shim receiver up ? I got sheetmetal also, actually have all kinds of crap layin around.

In 9th pic down, suffix "86v", you can see I cant get bolt lever to close, as it don't line up w/ notch. Does a dremel w/ a barrel shaped sander sound good to remove wood material there? Also, thinking of using it to widen trigger guard valley in stock, as its a lil to narrow, so I can get guard in there, unless someone suggest something else. Yes, Dave, Ill do something to even the barrel gap. KMW, I got the stock shipped for a couple bucks under $200. I thought that was reasonable. t he only thing i added custom was the colored laminate. Boyds offers many options, but the price increases/adds up quick. I figured I can try to do something myself later to increase the LOP. I'm not familiar w/ the stock or pricing of the Spike Camp you got.

[Dave Hoback]

I wouldn't use emery cloth or ANY cloth of any kind. And no tape of any kind. Nothing soft. The contact between Stock & Action surfaces must be solid. Anything malleable(cloth or tape), is a recipe for massive creep! If anything, I would sand under the tang to give it just a little float. Or, honestly... if you are in a rush to shoot it...just leave it until you bed the whole thing. With no bedding, it's not going to be night & day difference with a floated/not floated tang. But again.. DO NOT use a soft material like cloth, tape, etc, under the lugs. Can't use solid shims either obviously. MUST be bedding compound or just leave it. There really is no "get me by" here man. Either bed it properly, or leave it alone to shoot.

For the hard component fitting sure, you can use a Dremel....as long as YOU CAN USE a Dremel. Know what I mean? For the bolt handle U notch, I'd say try sand paper first. I can't imagine it needing much material removed. Just remember... you can take it off, but y can't put it back!

[charlie b]

...you can use a Dremel....as long as YOU CAN USE a Dremel....

I have lost count of the number of parts I have ruined with a Dremel. It doesn't take off enough material...then it takes off too much!

[KMW1954]

In the second picture everything looks to fit better? Are you able to get the action screws in and does it slide fore and aft?
I used a Dremel and a small sanding drum to open up the inletting on the bottom metal and trigger guard. Also used a large handled screw driver wrapped in 120grit sandpaper to open up under the rear tang. I sanded up to the bolt handle cutout. Just go slow and try refitting often.

[Dave Hoback]

I have lost count of the number of parts I have ruined with a Dremel. It doesn't take off enough material...then it takes off too much!

Indeed!