Headspacing With or Without extractor/ejector?

[efm77]

To each their own. If you want to do it that way then fine. I stand by what I said though and I've also been doing it a long time but never claimed to be an expert, nor was I being insulting by the way I expressed my opinion. I see I struck a nerve by the know it all attitude in your post, so excuse the heck out of me.

[Dave Hoback]

Lol! Not a problem. I agree with your sentiment of to each their own, absolutely. I was simply pointing out your error. Not angry, or had any “nerve struck” as you put it. I thought the emojis reflected the even tempered response, but guess not. Using a precise measuring tool is not “Backyard Barney” having at it. No-Go gauges actually are t very precise. The measurement varies among manufacturers up to 2-3 thous. And ALL of them are loose. 4 Thous at least! I made several shims of EXACTING shim stock. I cut them from precision, Stainless steel Feeler Gauges. I made .0039”, .003” & .0025” shim. I’ve known a few who made them down to .001”, for a SUPER tight chamber headspace. That’s all I was saying. These are EXACTING tolerances, not “skimping” as you incorrectly stated. I don’t want the less experienced here reading & forming misguided, incorrect knowledge. As the saying goes, “You are entitled to your own opinion, NOT your own FACTS!”

Im sorry you thought I was irritated.. I wasn’t. And I’m not saying you are doing wrong by using a NoGo. Of course it’s not WRONG. But neither is using exact tolerance shims. Which YOU did say was wrong, by calling it skimping. Some people simply can’t accept FACT right in front of them.

[efm77]

So go gauges are ok but no-go's aren't? I know there's variances between manufacturers and you shouldn't mix and match them. But a set from the same manufacturer should be very close. I always use gauges from the same manufacturer for the specific chambering and set it pretty tight on the go-gauge. I wasn't referring to the use of feeler gauges so much as using tape as many do. However, just because YOU said it, doesn't make it fact either. So where's your proof that the gauges are that sloppy? And you think there's no variances between feeler gauge manufacturers as well? They may be very close, but nothing man made is perfect and I'd bet it's possible that feeler gauges could be off a little too. Enough to matter? Probably not. Obviously, there's more than one way to skin a cat as neither of us have blown ourselves up. You do it your way and I'll do it mine. I've never had an issue over the years, and never had a problem with premature case life, or anything else that would come with excessive headspace.

But yes, you do come across as very arrogant and condescending in your responses to those who may not entirely agree with you. I've noticed it in quite a few of your responses on this forum. You may not mean it that way, but that's the way it's portrayed. Given that, I will refrain from responding to you from here on.

[Dave Hoback]

https://i.ibb.co/9VLM4wM/18901-F80-3862-4588-A845-5414-A588-E883.jpg (https://ibb.co/mXwxyvx)

https://i.ibb.co/P9fvNQN/05935-A1-B-9365-4-B2-A-B9-FB-4-AFB5-EC37-B51.jpg (https://ibb.co/nn5NbCb)

:thumb:


Anyway, the OP got himself SQUARED away which is what matters. And the satisfaction of doing it one’s self. Good stuff bud!

[gguinn]

It did not, that was the problem. After the initial post, I solved the problem by lightly filing the face of the extractor which was slightly proud of the bolt face and lubing the bevel of the extractor. Then bolt easily closed on the go gauge and would not on the nogo. Extractor removed the go from the chamber normally.

[justinp61]

The first 260 I rebarreled I only bought a go gauge and use two layers of shipping tape for the no go, about .0035" IIRC. When I did the last one, I bought the matching Forster no go gauge. After I was finished, I checked the first rifle with the no go gauge and the bolt wouldn't close on it.

I also did a 22-250 last summer and used Manson gauges, both have a slot milled in them for the ejector, pretty good idea IMO. The bottom line is both methods will work fine if you pay attention. Get sloppy and you'll have poor results.

[Dave Hoback]

Well said Justin. Or, as was in the case of the OP’s, a part might just be out of spec, like the Ejector sitting proud in his rifles bolt head.

[gguinn]

You sure the extractor snapped over the rim of the go-gauge?
If would not initially, then got is was able to after filing the ejector face slightly and lubricating the ejector bevel

[gguinn]

Thinking that as well. Or, did you check it WITHOUT those parts, then FINISH torquing? Did you check again AFTER torquing, or not again until everything was in. If so, you could have spun the barrel in a bit more with torquing.
He led before and after and was very careful to avoid spinning lug and action. Solution is mentioned above.

[wbm]

I have never removed the Ejector or the Extractor from any bolt head when setting the head space on any barrel. I've probably swapped out over two dozen barrel's over the years, and have never had a single issue with the head space not being perfect every time.

+1

[Dave Hoback]

I guess it’s best we remember there is no “better” way of doing each job. There is only the way each of chooses. Some of us do it BOTH ways depending on our mood even. As long as the same outcome is reached, the path getting there is moot.

[wbm]

_.