Seating Primers

[nksmfamjp]

I've loaded over 56,000 rounds with one of two RCBS universal hand primers

I have never had a protruding primer.

Even now that I am almost 80 and my hands are getting pretty weak, I still have no problem seating primers that are appropriately deep in the primer pockets.


Maybe someone else is, but I am not talking about a protruding primer. I’m talking about seating until the anvil touches and a couple thousandths more. That will be 0.005-0.008” below flush.

[charlie b]

I have used hand primers a lot over the years, mainly the older Lee model (round trays) and the Hornady (cause it was the only one in the store when I needed one).

Most of my priming now is on my Lee Loadmaster...but...it has been modified. I changed it to a hand operation. A removable extension was added to the factory lever. So the case is raised to the upper position and then the lever is used to seat the primer, much like many of the bench primers you can find on the market. I like being able to feel the primers seat.

For my 'good' brass I use a primer pocket uniform tool. I had heard about the flash hole burr on some Lapua brass and it was suggested to remove it.

[Blue Avenger]

Maybe someone else is, but I am not talking about a protruding primer. I’m talking about seating until the anvil touches and a couple thousandths more. That will be 0.005-0.008” below flush.

As your not the OP, he probable was not referencing your comment, If he even read it.

[Fuj']

I like a good argument....First off, my targets tell me if My method works. I hand prime
so I can feel the primer bottom out. As for going a bit more ?? I try not too. But if you want
to, hand priming is the way to do it. I've measured enough primers over the years, to know
that even the best vary in thickness. To set a mechanical device and do them all the same
will hurt your accuracy and why most all true bench rest shooters hand prime. I see there
was a mention of Eric Cortina. He's a good shooter and does win (in his game) I see he just
won the nationals. To be straight forward....Eric would get his head handed to him Shooting
short range 100/300 group and score. It's a different reloading game where if you don't
shoot in the minimum of low 2's, you go home.....As I mentioned in an earlier post , I
use a Sinclair hand primer. Not long ago I picked up the 21st Century hand primer that you
can set to seat primers exactly the same depth every time. Well I soon found some primers
were crushing and some were not bottoming out. These were those Federal primers. Checking
thicknesses told me what was going on. All in all, I decreased the amount of fliers I was having
by uniforming and hand priming by feel. That's my method, and it works. I compete, I can't
afford to be sloppy in any area of assembly. I'll save weight sorting primers for another argument
other then to say quite a few of the top IBS and UBR shooters do it.....

[Ernest T]

I primed 50 cases using the Lee shell holder and none of them protruded above the base of the case and the CBTO of the loaded rounds were more consistent. None of them showed daylight between the jaws of the caliper and the base of the case. I think the issue was using the Redding shell holder. I’ll look into a hand primer, I can already see the manufacturers have lots of different theories about what works best.

[PhilC]

As I mentioned in an earlier post , I use a Sinclair hand primer. Not long ago I picked up the 21st Century hand primer that you
can set to seat primers exactly the same depth every time. Well I soon found some primers were crushing and some were not bottoming out. These were those Federal primers.
^^^^^^^^^^^

This answers nksmfamjp's question posed to me why uniform. You can't have consistent seating if pockets aren't the same depth. If you believe mass produced brass primer pockets, by any manufacturer, are perfect, press on.

I purchased my Sinclair hand priming tool same year it was released and have been using it, and their pocket uniformers, ever since.

[Robinhood]

I use a Hollands primer pocket uniformer, and hand prime with a Sinclair. I never have
a proud primer other then the occasional high anvil. I get practically none with BR2's
and more then I want with Federal Champions, and only use those for fire forming.

If you are wanting expecting a higher level of accuracy other than just plinking, you first have to consider what others that share you interest in accuracy and precision believe.
Fuj is not the only accuracy/precision minded person here but is an example of the direction you might want to investigate. He has proven over time what is effective and can produce long strings of shots fired into small groups that most would be proud of. Looking at what he post it is obvious he has a process that is effective.

Opinions are a dime a dozen on the internet, proven processes are the crux.


I used a sinclair for years. If it is still being made, you would be hard pressed to use your money wiser.

[Fuj']

I primed 50 cases using the Lee shell holder and none of them protruded above the base of the case and the CBTO of the loaded rounds were more consistent. None of them showed daylight between the jaws of the caliper and the base of the case. I think the issue was using the Redding shell holder. I’ll look into a hand primer, I can already see the manufacturers have lots of different theories about what works best.

Sometimes a good ol' "WTF" then trial and error works the best. Keep at it....You'll learn
something new with each reloading session.

[charlie b]

Yep.

Heck, I'm still learning to shoot as well!!! Just figured out today my biggest 'flinch' is not really a flinch. I start to lift my head as I pull the trigger!! Didn't see that one coming.

[PhilC]

If it is still being made, you would be hard pressed to use your money wiser.
It is but currently out of stock Sinclair hand priming tool (https://www.brownells.com/reloading/reloading-tools/priming-tools/sinclair-priming-tool-6f45de37/).

[FoxHunter]

Every single person reloading for accuracy will use a hand primer, primer pocket reamer and primer pocket cleaner. Tumbling alone don't cut it. Also, the primer holes must be drilled to the same exact same size.
All casings have to be same length and weight. An inside neck reamer must be used, and all bullets and powder hand weighed.

[Stumpkiller]

I primed 50 cases using the Lee shell holder and none of them protruded above the base of the case and the CBTO of the loaded rounds were more consistent. None of them showed daylight between the jaws of the caliper and the base of the case. I think the issue was using the Redding shell holder. I’ll look into a hand primer, I can already see the manufacturers have lots of different theories about what works best.

I've used Lee gear, and I've used Redding gear. I would not doubt some discrepency due to mixing them . . . but I'd bet $5 the Redding was closer to spec. I like Lee a lot but Redding is one or two shelves up, so to speak.

[Robinhood]

It is but currently out of stock Sinclair hand priming tool (https://www.brownells.com/reloading/reloading-tools/priming-tools/sinclair-priming-tool-6f45de37/).

Figures!

[Ernest T]

I've used Lee gear, and I've used Redding gear. I would not doubt some discrepency due to mixing them . . . but I'd bet $5 the Redding was closer to spec. I like Lee a lot but Redding is one or two shelves up, so to speak.

I figured that out right after opening the box! It cost a lot more though.

[nksmfamjp]

Every single person reloading for accuracy will use a hand primer, primer pocket reamer and primer pocket cleaner. Tumbling alone don't cut it. Also, the primer holes must be drilled to the same exact same size.
All casings have to be same length and weight. An inside neck reamer must be used, and all bullets and powder hand weighed.

I appreciate your opinion, but in general, within the last 5-10 years, most accuracy minded reloaders, whom are competitive, are using a bench tool with some kind of stop. I believe in the last few years, this is often the CPS tool from primal rights. There are probably still a handful seating by feel which seems possible, although not super repeatable.

I’m not sure this is much better than the hand tools with a stop like the K&M as long as the Reloader has a way to get to the stop on every round and there is little tool flex.

[South Prairie jim]

I'm having a difficult time obtaining consistent primer seating depth with my Lee Classic Cast press. Sometimes they appear to be seated slightly below the base of the case and other times they are slightly proud. Needless to say, this is affecting my finished CBTO measurements. I'd say the measurement varies from .001-.003. It doesn't seem to matter if I tumble the brass or just wipe it off and clean the pocket with a case conditioning tool. I'm using the Lee case conditioner to clean the pocket. The raised ring around the flash hole in the picture is consistent. Am I supposed to remove this lip around the flash hole before seating the primers? It definitely keeps the primer pocket cleaner from reaching the bottom of the primer pocket. I've been using a pick to remove the residue that's left after cleaning the pocket.

9296
Wow’ you should not have any raised lip around the flash hole at all.. something is wrong, in fact those are quite possibly the oddest primer pockets I’ve ever seen.

[Robinhood]

I appreciate your opinion, but in general, within the last 5-10 years, most accuracy minded reloaders, whom are competitive, are using a bench tool with some kind of stop. I believe in the last few years, this is often the CPS tool from primal rights. There are probably still a handful seating by feel which seems possible, although not super repeatable.

I’m not sure this is much better than the hand tools with a stop like the K&M as long as the Reloader has a way to get to the stop on every round and there is little tool flex.

If you use a Primal Rights, do you have to uniform pocket depths? That is a chore but it may be neccesary if one goes that direction. Going to have to go check out and see what they suggest. Did I mention uniforming pockets sucks when doing 100 +or-.


speaking of D-Orkan
https://thumbs.gfycat.com/RapidSkeletalAlligatorsnappingturtle-size_restricted.gif

[Fuj']

Did I mention uniforming pockets sucks when doing 100 +or-.

That's what winter time is for....LOL Last month I finish 386 cases of my SA284 wild cat, and 412 of my
284-ELF. With a cold beer, streaming a good movie, and a towel on my lap to catch the brass cuttings,
It's not so bad. Something about being able to kick your feet up helps. Or maybe it's the beer.....:cool:

[charlie b]

I think it's the beer Fuj :) Something about numbing the mind? :) Or just so you forget how mind numbing it was? :)

One of the several reasons I like living in the southwest. I can shoot all winter.

[GrenGuy]

Along with this thread it is CRITICAL to:
1. Sort primers according to weight
2. Sort primers according to pocket height
3. Install primers with .004” CRUSH. Determined by Alex Wheeler to be optimal
These steps are absolutely critical to ACCURACY

PLEASE POST TARGETS DEMONSTRATING THE VALUE OF THESE STEPS !