PT&G Savage bolt

[Dave Hoback]

I wouldn’t touch the trigger. It’s already a fact the problem lies with the new bolt sleeve & older cocking pin. When you receive this other cocking pin you’ll know immediately if it’s the other style the same one you already have, simply by measuring. Should never alter another part with no assurance it will cure the problem. If when you you measure the new pin it is in fact the later style needed and it still will not function correctly, this would mean the bolt sleeve is out of spec.

One thing I question… you measured the two bolt sleeves having the same distance between the end & the pin shelf, but .030” different between the cross pin hole & shelf. This means the cross hole is drilled closer to the shelf. What I question is, does this not affect the Hokt Head fitting in the bolt sleeve?

[ArtinNC]

No , the locking lugs fit the same as the old sleeve . The only thing that I see is the Cocking pin miss the sear because of the bolt body (sleeve ) is smaller dia at the cocking pin and the pin should have a thicker head . Wish that Pin would get here .

[Robinhood]

If the trigger will not catch the sear and you hold the trigger forward on close and it works, then you have a trigger spring preload problem. I just measured 12 cocking piece pins. It is not easy to get an accurate reading but it looks like .090" plus or minus .005".

Based on the diameter of the body(.690) minus the diameter of the relief(.635), .055 divided by 2(.0275) would be the extra thickness needed to maintain the same proximity from the cocking piece pin to the wall of the lug raceway. so the question I ask is your cocking piece pin close to .090" or closer to .062. Seems strange for that to be the problem since the arm of the sear that reaches up into the raceway is usually more centered and would probably bind trying to slip by when closing the bolt. These are real facts.

Try increasing the preload on the trigger return spring and test it. It would be good to know how that turns out.

[ArtinNC]

I just got the new cocking pin from Numrich today . Numrich Part Number 1354170G said they had 4 left . And I put it in and it works I worked the bolt 12 times and had one no cock . So to make it safe I will have to increase the preload on the trigger return spring maybe just spray it with break cleaner . I have been shooting this gun as is for 4 years and no problem , I just use it for bench shooting . I really never liked the slopy bolt my old bolt body was .692 dia and the new one is .7000 dia , hope i don't have to go back to the old bolt body .
I'll let everyone know how it works out with the new bolt body and some targets .
Thanks for all the help ,
Art Summers in NC

[Dave Hoback]

You are very welcome. Glad it worked out. I was pretty sure that was the correct pin as the other cocking pin which they showed out of stock, was listed in the schematics for the Pre-‘66 guns. Good deal.

Eh… even a broken clock is right twice a day! :tea:

[Dave Hoback]

On another note, I finished the one I made in Titanium as well. It to functions perfectly. Also made a new trigger pin & the bolt Cross pin also in Ti. The pic below shows my bolt with both the Titanium Cross pin & Cocking pin.

https://i.ibb.co/zGyd5bp/7-AB628-D1-42-C6-4733-8-C3-A-912085-BBBFCC.jpg (https://ibb.co/nzHp0f9)

[ArtinNC]

Looks good , I really miss my lathe and mill , I'm not a machinst but can usely make what I want .

[Dave Hoback]

That’s how I operate. I don’t do any of this as a profession. Im a hobbyist machinist. Same with gunsmithing/building & Knifemaking. Never done any of it as a profession, although my work in these areas can deliver some professional results.

[ArtinNC]

Shot this today with my new bolt body . Gun shoots the same as always . better than me .
Picture