Savage 12 BVSS 22-250 to 6mm BR build

[LDSILLS]

So what did you use to cut the riser out of the stock? Band saw? coping saw? scroll saw? Use a jig to position it?

If you go to page to of this thread you'll see how i did it.

[KMW1954]

If you go to page to of this thread you'll see how i did it.

Seems somehow I completely missed from post 47-54. Thanks for the patience!

[LDSILLS]

Update May 28th, 2024

Mimmmmmm been 24 hours and the stain is dry, but the color is far from Gunstock (AKA walnut brown) Its more orange. Well I am going through with the clear! If I really don't like it. I guess its plan B. Plan B is to paint it some sort of candy apple or metal flake similar to Rockets wife's gun, but not blue thats all.

[Rocketvapor]

Maybe a coat of a darker stain?
That looks like Gunstock stain to me.
Just not the Gunstock you expected.
Maybe 400 grit then a darker stain.



and
what's wrong with BLUE?
:)

[charlie b]

If it is what shows up in the pic above then I like it. Maybe not the darker brown of some walnut, but, it is a pretty color.

[LDSILLS]

Maybe a coat of a darker stain?
That looks like Gunstock stain to me.
Just not the Gunstock you expected.
Maybe 400 grit then a darker stain.

and
what's wrong with BLUE?
:)

I LIKE THE BLUE! However, I don't want to copy it unless here shooting success comes with it!

Okay heres the plan, and its was brought on by Mom Nature at my grape jelly bird feeder yesterday. I have 2 pairs of Baltimore Orioles religiously arriving each day and the males colors gave me a thought. Why night trim the stock in gloss black...that means re-coating the forearm end, spraying the stock to comb riser piece mating surfaces, and all inlets from the safety tang to the forearm.

Makes sense as the forearm end is the head and the trim is the wings! Gotta love Mom Nature to put colors together!

https://s7d1.scene7.com/is/image/isp/wabbaltimoreoriolemale?qlt=100&wid=1200&ts=1688395030943&$ImageComponent$&fit=constrain

[sharpshooter]

You could add brown dye to the clear finish.

[LDSILLS]

You could add brown dye to the clear finish.

Great thought Fred. However, I plan on using rattle can. I have found over the years I get a better finish with it instead of a brush. Thank you though!

[Rocketvapor]

If you lightly sand the as-stained finish to expose the grain, then apply a darker stain, maybe in a fade from the ends.
Sort of like fade on a guitar top.
Adding color to the clear coat might hide the grain and look blah.

[LDSILLS]

If you lightly sand the as-stained finish to expose the grain, then apply a darker stain, maybe in a fade from the ends.
Sort of like fade on a guitar top.
Adding color to the clear coat might hide the grain and look blah.

More great ideas. Thanks Rocket!

If anyone has anymore hold off as I am working the stock right now. Ill post photos of my decision by Sunday after a 1/2 dozen or so coats of clear dry.

[Rocketvapor]

I put about 4 coats of this on the wife's Blue stock, let it cure, 4 more, took to range.
Wet sanded with 1000 grit, added 2 more coats, let that cure, 2000 wet sanded, then buffed.
10706

Racket :)

[LDSILLS]

I put about 4 coats of this on the wife's Blue stock, let it cure, 4 more, took to range.
Wet sanded with 1000 grit, added 2 more coats, let that cure, 2000 wet sanded, then buffed.
10706

Racket :)

Sorry Racket...I mean Rocket! :)

Okay serious stuff...does it really just wipe on? And did it do a good job of self leveling? Curious minds want to know ROCKET! Hahaha

[Rocketvapor]

Lint free cloth, and it went on smooth.
I wet sanded after done with 2000grit paper and buffed the final coat.

For finishing use a dummy piece to test.

[charlie b]

The wipe on poly works well. You can just get the regular stuff and cut it with thinner to do the same thing. The key is thin coats. If you want a gloss finish I was taught to use cotton tshirt material and quite a bit of pressure to wipe on successive coats.

I haven't done anything like that in decades. These days I just use the satin spray on stuff and finish sand it. I will wipe on the first coat using thinned varnish. Just to get it to soak in a bit more, like a sealer coat. After that I spray and sand maybe two more coats.

The alternative is an oil finish. That's another ball game but the results can be worth it.

[LDSILLS]

Update 6-8-2024

Stock is not finished yet. I still need to design and install a bench forearm widening piece. I also need to bed it and reinforce the two laminate cracks around pillars.

Heres is two weeks of work. Mostly took awhile because the old back doesn't let me set in an up right position long. The other reason is I never work any paint or clear until 24 hours is up. Except I will build a clear coating using the 1 minute rule in between coats.

Sanding started with 80 grit to strip the old factory finish. Then 100, 150, 220 to get the stain settled. As I posted the stain looked orange after a 24 hour rest. I let it dry one more day and hit it again with 100 grit. Apparently what I found is the grain was raised from the stain and that was given me the orange color. Once I knocked the grain down with 100 then 150 and 220 things started to darken up . At least more of a shade I could live with. I still decided to trim it with gloss black rattle can.

More sanding and more sanding. The 220 went to 800 for the outside and I stopped with 220 for the inletting. The black factory plastic forearm cap was roughed with 220 then 800 and buffed with 1500. Then the wet towel came out with a an old cotton t shirt to get rid of sanding dust.

Time for masking. Heres a hint for those that have never masked a finer finish project. USE automobile masking tape its flexible and the will not bleed with thinner spray time paints whether from a spayer or rattle can. One inch will wide will work fine as you can always use a razor blade to cut strips. Once the edge masking is done I tape remaining spots with plane old blue tape for interior painting projects. As for razor blades I like the double sided ones for trimming auto tape. They are thinner, the cutting edge is very fine. Lastly they are flexible and you can bend them to get around corners. If your worried about getting cut, tape off one side.

I started spraying over the stained areas with rattle can Krylon UV resistant clear. One minute interval between very light coats. 7 total...as I said they were light. I like a 2-3 mil coat of clear and with my style it takes around 7. It was put away for a full day of curing. Next day I ruffed the finish with 220 as the can recommended and gave it a slightly heavier final coat. Then another 24 hours of cure before handling

Now it was time to remove the previous masking. Being careful when removing on edges. I reversed the masking and covered the stock proper, so I could spray Krylon Gloss Black on the inlet, comb riser mating surfaces. for the plastic it got a real light roughing with 220 just enough to see a few scratches. This would give the paint a hold but with the higher glossed surface from the 1500. I am a little more liberal with rattle can pain vs clear coat. I use horizontal side to side fast application swipes with the can. Fast to start with one minute rest in between to stop running. The a slower swipe application as the coat builds still horizontal. Then a 2 minute wait and I do a slow vertical spray about 15 inches away. The it is allowed to dry for one full day. Inspected for bubbles and runs. If I don't like what I see, the runs will get very light 220 until gone. For bubbles they get 800. Then a tac rag for very light mopping of dust. Two more light coats of paint is applied with one minute break.

https://i.ibb.co/7vb91m0/45-C7-A39-A-5987-4347-9-ADA-2-C8701-AE9934.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/sbyyY96/371-DA712-3-D4-B-4076-ACD3-84282-DED73-E4.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/1r2Zbmw/91-C7-A818-BEA9-48-FE-9-FED-1-F914232-C92-F.jpg

[Rocketvapor]

Looking NICE.

[charlie b]

I agree. Nice.

[LDSILLS]

6-8-24 cont....

Such nice weather I just had to do one more thing this evening. So I permanently mounted the AtlasWorx adjustable riser with some #8 x 1 1/4" stainless course thread wood screws. Pilot hole was a 1/8" straight bit because of the laminate. NOTE: I would of preferred fine thread #8 stainless screw 1" long but could not find any quality ones locally. For that size the pilot hole would of been 11/64 tapered bit.



https://i.ibb.co/rMVwqwF/358-C27-D8-0161-4-EAB-AF5-B-707-F4-E96-A20-C.jpg

[PhilC]

Looks fantastic!

[LDSILLS]

Thank you all for the compliments it means allot! As I said I still have stuff to do to complete. Then Ill hit it with rubbing compound and apply wax to make it pop!