Savage Mark ll BTV (laminated stock)

[epags]

Savage Manual page 29 says:
INSTALLING THE STOCK
1. Home the action into the stock being careful to
clear the ACCUTRIGGER ADJUSTING
SCREW.
2. Replace both screws, tightening the front
action screw first to approximately 40 inch
pounds and then the rear to the same
amount.

Edit #2: Crossed out the 40 inch pounds...it applies to center fire calibers

This Savage link says:
What is the torque spec for my action screws?
Avatar Savage Moderator
2 months ago Updated
Model Action screw torque........
.......All Mark I, II, 93, and B-Series (B22, B17) models 15 inch pounds

15 inch pounds appears correct.

Adminstration: How do I lock this thread?

[sharpshooter]

Correct torque will be whatever works for you. You will have to experiment. Too much will spread the stock and distort the receiver, resulting in a hard bolt operation.

[Fasteddie01]

I have both my 64s and my B22 at ca 15 i-p and they all shoot well. I plan to experiment this summer by going up in 5 i-p increments since 20 or 25-ish might do better. I just started low this spring, last year they were all at ca 30. Mine are all in Synth, but I still suggest you start 'low' and work up. Luckily I have a couple bricks of CCI-SV to work with so I know the ammo is good for 'fair accuracy'.
PS - My process is to 'snug' both screws to ca 10 with the action pulled to the back, then tighten the Rear First using a torque wrench. I just do that, no special 'guidance' from anyone. Being consistent is more important IMO.

[LDSILLS]

Torquing is not a means of adjustment. Proper Torquing is a means of ensuring lands and grooves of female and male threads have sufficient friction to prevent loosing. Knowing that and noting what SavageShooter stated about deformation of the receiver. I always just use Blue Loctite. Apply the Loctite then just snug the action bolts and after snug, just tighten another quarter turn.

Think simple. That stock is nothing but a handle and a cheek rest. It has noting to do with accuracy unless the stock grows, shrinks or twist or as Sharpshooter stated applies unusual pressure on the action or barrel.

Note: if you have a laminate stock over tightening will cause separation in the of the laminates near the pillars. This separation is a compression type in which the laminate actually bulges out. A comparison would be putting a tire on and when you lower the jack, it's the sides bulge out from the pressure induced by the mass of the car.

Let a good bedding job apply pressures where needed to the action. Use the action bolts to just hold the handle on.

[epags]

Thanks for the info.

[epags]

Goog suggestion...thanks

[epags]

Thanks.

[Fasteddie01]

I've gotta say that "Torquing" IS a means of adjusting POI, mainly due to distortion of the receiver. I'm not aware of what "Savageshooter" stated about 'deformation' so I can't comment on that, But there are many threads on many forums regarding using torque to "adjust POI". Changing torque Will change POI - I can't disagree with an abundance of data.

[LDSILLS]

I've gotta say that "Torquing" IS a means of adjusting POI, mainly due to distortion of the receiver. I'm not aware of what "Savageshooter" stated about 'deformation' so I can't comment on that, But there are many threads on many forums regarding using torque to "adjust POI". Changing torque Will change POI - I can't disagree with an abundance of data.

Do not confuse torquing with screw pressure applied (or tension) they are not the same. And even mechanical engineers get them confused.
Second never lube the threads if torquing you'll get an excessive amount of torque. However lubing just the washer to get correct torque value is acceptable. The same with applying liquid lock tight which lubes the threads when torquing and allow for increase tension.

When you say torquing changes the POI. However, increased tension on the bolt could. However if you do a good bedding job you will lessen tensions on the action.

Lastly and this in important. Torquing does indeed elongate the lands and deform the grooves on both male and female mating surfaces. It has to for friction to work. Thus do not expect torque values to be applicable if you use reuse both. You may get but with a tightened joint once or maybe twice but it will either fail or you will indeed apply extra tension to the joint. Thus if possible replace both. If the female thread is embedded then chase it and use a new virgin fastener.

However, to my point and the real reason I use Blue Locktite and the snug method. No damage is done to the female or male fastner's and you can just clean the old lotctite and reuse your original fasteners with no fear joint failure or increased tension on the joint.

Second is bed you actions and recoil lugs. Bedding the action gives you a 95% statistical confidence you will not have a static distortion on the action from the tighting the action screws. The bedding of the lug will remove lateral movement of the action plus all while it severally limits the uncontrolled horizontal distortion on the action screws.

If you want to read more in great detail I recommend the German guideline Called VDI 330. Bolted Joints which have to transmit constant or alternating workloads.