SAVAGE 12BVSS 6mm BR Settings and Fine Tuning

[LDSILLS]

Guys I need your help. Having a little trouble with the old brain and I cant remember how to set my barrel for .002 set back.

Yes I have 6mm-BR Go and No-Go gauges and I know how to use them. Such as on the No-Go I should see the bolt fall to about the 2-3 o'clock position to save on brass.

What I am getting confused on should I set the barrel using the Go gauge with one or two pieces of tape for a .002 set back? Or do I put the tape on the No-Gauge for a .002 set back? [Darn anesthesia anyway! I feel like Joe Biden some days!]

Thank you all!

Larry

[sharpshooter]

You don't use any tape for setting the headspace. Use the go gauge....insert the gauge and close the bolt and then screw the barrel up to the gauge till it stops. Not tight, just till it stops. Tighten the nut. The nut will tension the threads and create another .0015- .002" clearance. There's your .002" set back. If you want assurance, check it with a piece of plasti-gage, it will tell you exactly how much clearance you have.

[Robinhood]

That tape is hard to measure but i would bet on it being between .003" and .004" thick maybe more depending on the manufacture.

[charlie b]

Tape is not consistent either. Use the Go/No-go. That's what they are designed for. People use tape with a Go gauge so they only have to buy one gauge (or they use tape with an empty case and don't use gauges at all).

After firing it won't matter anyway. Once fireformed set your sizing die for the setback you want. Just don't use that brass in any other rifle.

[LDSILLS]

You don't use any tape for setting the headspace. Use the go gauge....insert the gauge and close the bolt and then screw the barrel up to the gauge till it stops. Not tight, just till it stops. Tighten the nut. The nut will tension the threads and create another .0015- .002" clearance. There's your .002" set back. If you want assurance, check it with a piece of plasti-gage, it will tell you exactly how much clearance you have.

Flash back thank you Fred. I had completely forgotten about what you said. Good advise on using plasti-gage. Just to be safe, I think for awhile Ill back off on any further action on the fine tuning until this brain starts working again.

Charlie to your point about using tape instead of a No-Go gauge...heres a video of a guy that does that. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l0OxGkncWlQ

[charlie b]

I understand a lot of people use tape. If you want it to be accurate to the cartridge spec then the gauges are the right way to go.

As mentioned, if you only care about fitting the cases to your rifle it doesn't matter much what you use. More headspace means more case volume and the brass is stretched a bit. After fire forming then it is the sizing die setting that determines everything else.

For my initial setting on the 6BR I used gauges. For my .308 I used a fired case for a go gauge and tape on the base for no-go. Both methods work.

[Robinhood]

I cut pieces of aluminum can rather than using something that can be destroyed like tape. Using scissors I cut out the shape to fit down in the bolt head. I don't remove the ejector so I cut around that. Like charlie said. You set your sizing die to size your brass correctly. It has worked for dozens of barrels.

[LDSILLS]

I cut pieces of aluminum can rather than using something that can be destroyed like tape. Using scissors I cut out the shape to fit down in the bolt head. I don't remove the ejector so I cut around that. Like Charlie said. You set your sizing die to size your brass correctly. It has worked for dozens of barrels.

Lets clarify folks. I have no ejector and the ejector hole was closed when Fred trued my bolt head.

I did this for two reasons onethis rifle is a true single shot who needs an ejector.

Two, if 6mmBR components remain as scarce as they are I can easily change things back to .22-250, 6mmPPC, or even a 6mm-Dasher.

Truthfully, I have always thought the .22-250 would be a great short range bench caliber, pushing a 53 grain Sierra Match at 3800 to 4000 fps. Sure I'd have to watch the barrel throat, but man can that little pill drill the holes at 100yds and at that speed it cuts moderate wind like its butter. Nice thing also with a .22-250 my as built rig, recoil will be near zero another plus for free recoil bench shooting.

I know this as when it was factory I could shoot a yote and never feel anything other than sore muscles from dragging around a 10 pound gun!
https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/jj377/TheDuckMaster1/.highres/larrynicemale.jpg?width=320&height=320&fit=bounds

[charlie b]

I don't have an ejector on any of my bolt guns either.

Keep in mind I don't hunt.

Recoil is why I went to the 6BR. I wanted 1000yd performance that my .308 had with 175SMK's, but, I hated the recoil. I got what I wanted. Little recoil (yes, I shoot free :) ) and accurate at 1000. It is really superb at 600yd. Soda cans make good targets at that range.

My .223 was ok at 600 but was not good at 1000 (2MOA kind of thing). Which was why I went up in caliber.

If I were shooting at 300 or less I'd still be using my .223.