Did I become a bad shot, or is my setup going hawire?

I can't see how one could shoot any rifle accurately when putting that amount of force into it. "Muscling the rifle" was the first big no-no pointed out by most instruction documents. You are supposed to be relaxed in order to be consistent. I do agree that a front and rear bag is the best way, although I do use a bipod in the field and there is quite a learning curve to using it consistently.

The only rifle I had with the accustock was my 10PC and that recently got a new laminate stock, but that rifle was always a 1/2MOA rifle. There is no way anyone is going to bend that stock 3/4" with 1 finger. Now the piece of junk that is sold with the axis of model 11/ 111, quite a different story.

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Originally Posted by Westcliffe01

I can't see how one could shoot any rifle accurately when putting that amount of force into it. "Muscling the rifle" was the first big no-no pointed out by most instruction documents. You are supposed to be relaxed in order to be consistent. I do agree that a front and rear bag is the best way, although I do use a bipod in the field and there is quite a learning curve to using it consistently.

The only rifle I had with the accustock was my 10PC and that recently got a new laminate stock, but that rifle was always a 1/2MOA rifle. There is no way anyone is going to bend that stock 3/4" with 1 finger. Now the piece of junk that is sold with the axis of model 11/ 111, quite a different story.

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Yeah I have a 10 FLCP-K with the accustock as well....agreed, no one is going to bend that tock 3/4 of an inch with 1 finger unless yer superman! As crappy a the tupperware stock is that is on my 11 THXP, I still don't even honestly think moving it 3/4 of an inch with 1 finger is really likely...it's flexible and a crappy stock, but 3/4" in movement downward would require you to also bend the barrel....

As mentioned above as well...your grip on the fore-stock should be gentle if at all....I never lay a hand on the fore-stock with most my rifles when shooting....front and rear bags is all one needs....I have a bi-pod and use it occasionally but find it just isn't that comfortable to shoot with and less accurate in general.

You are not bending the stock 3/4", you are bending the stock enough at the wrist to cause the Muzzle to rise 3/4". Big difference. The Muzzle is the length of the receiver, plus barrel length away from the wrist. It only takes a small amount of movement.

But if the muzzle rises, so do the scope crosshairs ?

Yes, but it is an action that is happening during a flinch, which means it is not something your going to notice during the shot. It was what the range master was showing me was happening when I flinched. A way he could show me that I was actually flinching, when I did not think I was. i wasn't closing my eyes. Wasn't jerking the trigger. But yet, he was able to point out where a weak point in the rifle was showing that I was in fact flinching.

Glad you got it figured out. She shooting nice and tight again?

Something I like to do when I am going shoot the 300 quite a bit is to also take a 22LR with me and shoot groups with it between rounds. Helps with the anti-flinch itch, breathing and trigger management and also allows for a good cool down on the 300.

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Originally Posted by Jetpig

Something I like to do when I am going shoot the 300 quite a bit is to also take a 22LR with me and shoot groups with it between rounds. Helps with the anti-flinch itch, breathing and trigger management and also allows for a good cool down on the 300.

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Good tip! I'm going to try that. I often bring the MkII along for a little plinking after I'm done with the .308.

If it was shooting great and then suddenly started going haywire it's one of 5 things: 1) You developed a flinch; 2) Your barrel is too hot between shots; 3) you switched ammo and it didn't like the load; 4) it got too dirty; 5) Your scope broke. I've had all of the above :) Glad you got it figured out. Hope it's back to good groupings.

I guess something in the bolt might have broken...but I know nothing about that :)

Swapped scope rings to a higher quality set and voila!

Here is a 3 shot group at 100yds.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psi1xct8z7.jpg

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Originally Posted by 300winmag

Swapped scope rings to a higher quality set and voila!

Here is a 3 shot group at 100yds.

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Nice shooting, 300 Winnie! Now come left 2 & up 1... (;^)

I solved my problem by changing barrels--- I changed from my old Savage 14 to a new Savage 10 FCP HS.
I borrowed that scope (Redfield TAC 3-9x40) from the 14 and began shooting <1 MOA straightaway.

The very next day I swapped the scope over to my Mk II .22 r-f (eyeball boresighted) and did the same thing
with that: 3 rnds = .62" @ 100 yards, then spun the elev drum back down to my 50 yd zero and hit dead centre on the closer target.
I love that little .22--it's my favourite shooter at the moment.
I've got a Sightron 6-24x50 on order for the .308, so that ought to be some fun.

BTW-- Both rifles stayed true all day: 40 rnd of .308 and 75 rnd of .22. No "issues". Maybe those fatty barrels do make a difference.

http://i809.photobucket.com/albums/z...gLad/011-3.jpg

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Originally Posted by 300winmag

Swapped scope rings to a higher quality set and voila!

Here is a 3 shot group at 100yds.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psi1xct8z7.jpg

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What set did you have and what set did you go to?

Darrell

Not sure what brand the old ones were. The new set are vortex's precision rings.