If you get it makes sure you get the sunshade with it. Worked great here in the SOCAL sun
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If you get it makes sure you get the sunshade with it. Worked great here in the SOCAL sun
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I'll keep that in mind.
Gents - have a good evening. Just finished a good rainstorm here & after listening to the rain on the roof, I need a nap.
And I need to get ready for tomorrow.
RANGE DAY!!!!
A day where MEN get together & shoot guns, talk guns, live guns. An estrogen free zone.
Later Y'all...
I like the fixed magnification because with lower end scopes they usually get fuzzy passed 16x or so anyways. I may upgrade to higher mag down the road when I can build another rifle, but for learning the basics of long range shooting it's a more than stellar optic for its cost.
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LW seeing it is a fixed power and Mil-dot do the dots get in the way at say 300+ yards...meaning do they cover the target so you don't get a clear picture of the 10 ring?
I've always used the fine reticle so as not to cover the target where I can not see the bulls-eye.
I didn't view any competition style paper targets passed 100yds the other day. I don't think they would though. They have better reticle choices (for paper shooting) in the MRAD versions that may be more appropriate also a higher magnification would make a big difference in the view at 300 for precision on paper.
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So After doing the math I realized that my grouping is actually sub half MOA at 100 yards. I estimated it to be roughly .75 inches all the way across if you subtract .308 you end up with .442 (Estimated of Course). I will bring my Micrometer next time.
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/...g?t=1378259102
Anyways, I was thinking about bedding this rifle still, but it's shooting very well without it. What are the views of the guys that have bedded a well performing rifle in a Laminate stock? I've been conversing with Nate Foster of Terminal Ballistics Research and creator of Match Grade Bedding Compound. It sounds like it mostly aids in controlling variations in the stock due to temperature. I don't really know how much more performance I would get from bedding, but it still interests me. Might be more of a longevity of the accuracy maybe?
What do you guys think?
Lonewolf, does your stock now have pillars? Thanks ..... Jim
I've never done a build with a wood stock (yet) but why does a wood stock--which I assume is rigid--need a pillar bed to begin with? Just asking cause I don't know.
When you tighten the action screws, the wood between the action and the head of the action screw can actually become deformed or compressed, so you may end up not applying a precise and repeatable amount of pressure between the action and the stock. With pillars, the amount of compression between the head of the screw and the action is reduced to an amount that approaches zero.
The object is to have the action and the stock always in the exact same relationship (repeatability corresponds to greater precision) and that usually happens better with a pillar bedded action and stock.
Makes sense--I thought the sleeved screw and fixed lug would do the same thing but maybe not enough. Thanks.
The front action screw has a pillar. Do to the design of the axis and this stock the rear is not and I don't believe it would require because the front of the trigger housing sits directly on the stock and the action screw goes through it before entering the threads in the action. On the bottom the pressure is sustained on the front of the trigger guard.
Understand this stock is CNC cut for the Axis. It seems to me maybe bedding the front of the action, but don't see the rear needing it.
I will get some pictures up later. If this doesn't make sense.
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Thanks LoneWolf.....pictures always help! :)......Jim
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/...psa791d8f3.jpg[/IMG]
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/...psebb8685e.jpg[/IMG]
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0391e717.jpg[/IMG]
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tag for later when secret stock info is declassified
It has a rear pillar now! Took a 1/4 in. pipe fitting cut and ground it to size with a dremel. Then I opened the hole up with a drill. Took about 1hr to get it just right after setting up my new work station.
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/...pse5bf4417.jpg
Kind of thought that was the point of the name "pillar" bedding. Pillars are used to reinforce structures. In this case the connection between the action and stock by reinforcing the stock.
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Yes, many don't have them. It is a common upgrade that is done when bedding the action. Often the action and first couple inches of the barrel are bedded (with Marine tex or Acraglas or something similar) at the same time to help marry the barreled action to the stock and make it so once you tighten the screws down everything should stay where it is supposed to, and hopefully not shift around in the stock every time you pull the trigger. If the action has any wiggle room the vibrations from firing the rifle can cause it to change positions slightly in the stock, causing pressure points on the barrel and action to change.....in turn effecting your point of impact in comparison to previous shots and opening up your group size.
I would say it would be a good project for LoneWolf to go ahead and bed the action once he has tested out his latest upgrade, and see if he can make that rifle shoot even better.
That's the intent. I'm gaining more confidence in my diy gunsmithing with each project. I knew once I drilled into the stock yesterday there was no Turing back. Same thing will be for the bedding job when I start roughing up the interior to get good adhesion of the bedding compound. It is quite fun to tackle these little projects yourself.
The crazy thing to me is this is the first rifle/firearm I have owned personally and everything is working out on first attempt. I guess I owe it all to proper research and preparation. Along with some advice from the good people on this forum. I will continue to update on the life of my Axis project.
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I was thinking of going with this kit:
http://www.ballisticstudies.com/shop...+Compound.html
I spoke with Nathan Foster own of the company who developed it and they have quite a bit of information on bedding the Axis and Tikka T-3 that use the stock inbedded recoil lug rather than the standard lug. He's even willing to walk me through it via skype to ensure it is completed without issues. He really stands behind his product.
I always do a lot of independent research before jumping into something that has a 50/50 chance of how it will work out. I'd prefer to make the odds more in my favor of going my way if I can.
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I'm the opposite--I'm a "**** the torpedoes, full speed ahead" kinda of guy and with a 99% chance of success I'll figure out a way to screw it up. : )
The thing about this project is I only get one chance with everything because all I have is one stock to play with!
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I made the first cut to start shaping the adjustable butt plat unit I got. It's made out of anodized aluminum, so I realized after the first cut it would take me weeks to do with a dremel and probably about 100 of those little metal cutting discs. I will be picking up a bench grinder next payday to continue that portion of the job.
Not to be a smart a$$ but NEVER grind aluminum with a bench grinder. All you will do is clog up the al oxide wheels.
Get a bench type belt sander.
ron
That would be more of an investment than I would prefer. Hmm.... Maybe I can rent one from home depot or something. Make for a good project next weekend!
It's not me doing it correctly, it's getting the intended results!
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So is it a 50/50 that it will work because of the squirrely recoil lug?
I figure it's a 50/50 chance of doing it right or wrong when the project is something that you only get one chance because you're working with something that you can't easily fix or replace like a stock. Gotta find a way to raise those odds every time you do something that can't be undone. Some good research and proper preparation before starting raises those odds along with taking your time.
With a glass bedding project proper planning and preparation are very important because you are working with a more limited amount of time. So, I think I'm going to take that on next month and try to finish up the adjustable butt plate this month.
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Well gentlemen the wife got me a bench grinder for our 6year anniversary. So, last night I started on fitting the SPS2 to the stock.
Original picture:
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9cc1508a.jpg[/IMG]
Where I got to last night:
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4809c0c1.jpg[/IMG]
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/...psd766a118.jpg[/IMG]
For comparison:
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4d08800e.jpg[/IMG]
I am about halfway done with grinding the first plate and will upload more pics tonight after I get some more done.
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2/3 plates rough sized:
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/...psc89e4f72.jpg[/IMG]
http://i1281.photobucket.com/albums/...ps37a0ada6.jpg[/IMG]
Should be finished up by the end of the week.
Plan to have the Cerakoted once finished.
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Looking great. I'm looking forward to getting that stock on my .243. What's the weight of the stock, compared to the factory plastic?
I'd advise go for their mil-quad reticle and pass up on the mil-dot. The mil-quad is a MRAD (mil-mil 10:1 MOA @ 100) which makes most of your range calculations easier--as well as finer for the "precision" shot. The dots are actually hollow triangles so at longer ranges you are centering the POA within that triangle (if doing hold-overs).
It's definitely heavier than the factory, but it's a laminate. With the factory sporter barrel it definitely felt much more comfortable. I'm a big guy, so the 2 1/2in hand guard is much more comfortable. The length of pull is good for a hunting rifle where you wouldn't be shooting from the prone much if you're a taller guy. They will offer the option of a one inch recoil pad as well. I felt I needed a little more, so went fully adjustable. I intend to use it for long range prone or bench shooting locally though.
It's definitely above and beyond an improvement to the factory stock.
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I like MOA adjustments because I can already visualize what an MOA is out to the ranges I play with and get myself on target by making adjustments in my head. It's not something I have to relearn only practice more.
Same with the mil dots. I'm not a fan of busy over technical sight pictures.
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Maybe! Still have things to learn before I experiment with other gear.
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Thanks for the info! I've actually had a plan, very similar to your build, for my .243, but I just haven't been able to find a decent stock. As soon as Richard's pushes out this stock, I'll get it going. Oh, and did you do your own barrel install? I've never done one, and I'd like to switch mine out for a faster twist and heavier contour.
It was very easy if you get an action wrench(MidwayUSA), barrel nut wrench(MidwayUSA), Go and No-Go Gauges(MidwayUSA), and a good bench vise(Harbor Freight and Tools). Once you get it apart make sure you clean the threads very thoroughly it will make the install much easier that way.
Other tools I recommend and forgot to list are a breaker Bar and Torque wrench!
Last note: If it is not time sensitive take your time. Things go wrong when you try to rush them!
Sounds straight-forward enough. I've read about it a little, but never seriously. Oh, and in my reading (and inspecting a couple of my own Savages), there seem to be tiny beads in between the threads of the barrel and the nut. Will removing the barrel nut with them in there affect the threads of the current barrel/barrel nut?
And again, thank you very much for taking the time to answer!
No Problem! I hope they start releasing aftermarket stocks soon, so that I'm not the only one enjoying an Axis that hangs in there with "higher end" rifles.
Thank you all for following my build project and not trying to beat me up for additional information that I am unable to release about the stock.
Word is still late fall as far as i know, by the way!
Nice build.
I was a hair width away from purchasing the same package for my Axis .308 but the kill factor was the turrets...i was/am set on mil-mil. Excellent choice though.