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i'm going to gun shows and pawn shops over the next couple of months i'm on the hunt for an older savage bolt action 110 , 10 or any savage bolt action in 30 06 308 win and 223 rem my main criteria is wood stock and iron sights. i own several savage bolt actins now and have always been a big savage fan. my main question is are there any years or models to stay clear of like when there quality wasn't the best. thanks also either blind mag or floor plate no clips.
the one you do not want has a bulge in the barrel with the rear site dove tailed into it.
whats the reason that these aren't good. thanks
I’m curious as well. Not familiar with any older Model 110 that uses a rear sight dove tailed into a “bulge” in the barrel. Not quite sure what that means.
This rifle has the bulged ring on the barrel with a dovetail sight.
https://images.gunsinternational.com...80595C840E.JPG
Dey59 the reason these old actions aren't desirable is parts availability. Triggers are different for 1 aftermarket triggerscare easier to find for the newer style actions. Barrels on the older ones have a recess for the bolt head cut in the breech face and aftermarket preffit barrels will not work with that bolt face configuration. The standing ejector is another feature that does not work with the newer style bolt heads which are readily available as new or aftermarket. Trigger, barrel and bolt parts. The bolt body is also different with the hole holding the bolt head is bored at a 90° angle to the newer style.
Making changing bolt heads for different calibers a bigger issue. Aftermarket fluted bolt bodies will not work in the same original rifle. The lump in the barrel will not work in some aftermarket stocks without extra in letting for the lump/bulge.
These older pre 1966 rifles are ok for a donor but because of the lack of aftermarket support they ate not the best choice. I've reworked a couple of them and they are usable and I would like to find another reciever to play with.é
The pre-66 110 is unique unto itself. There is nothing wrong with them, in fact, they are commonly good shooters. The problem is practically nothing exists for the pre-66 110s and virtually no parts will interchange with post '66 110s.
If you want a rifle with aftermarket support, select a post '66 model.
Oh, ok-ok... THAT one. Duh! My mind was drifting. I was trying to think of a Savage with a BULGE on the ACTION, for a rear site. I came across several of those pictured with the the barrel mounted sight.. just didn’t even think about it.
Yeah, I wouldn’t want that one. But then.. I don’t like open sights on rifles. Open sights are for pistols.
ohh and the one that has a cast receiver instead of machined. there all warped!
Yes, don’t bother with the Cast type, unless you are a collector. There was a thread not too long ago though, a member here inherited one I believe, and it was a UNICORN! It was a Cast Action with both the Scope Bases & Recoil Lug CAST as one piece with the Action.
This one
https://i.ibb.co/pzShWMF/C5-CFF4-EC-...0-BFEF2840.jpg
And subsequent article from Jim.
https://www.savageshooters.com/conte...They-Do-Exist!
If the serial number starts with f or G or anything higher you cant go wrong.
The early F prefix were shady, until you got to about 500,000.
thanks for the replies I'm looking for the 50000 up to just before the accutrigger in 2003. I have 3 rifles with the accutrigger and they are fine but for these rifles I want wood stock iron sights and standard trigger. I also own an E with the cast receiver with iron sights and wood stock that shoots just fine but I don't care for the scope mounts there all the time. just a thing that bugs me. I was aware of the difference in the earlier models. but wasn't sure when they got there act together after the reorganization.
Personally I look for 110 with the 5.062 screw spacing top bolt release pre accutrigger. probably 90's manufacture.
Very versatile and easy to work on or modify.
Matter of fact I bought one today in 243 for $350 . It's going to be my new reloading test mule!
They are ALL easy to work on/modify. Save for the couple previously addressed earlier in the thread.
what the significance of the 5.062 spacing.
Nothing. It’s been the standard Long Action screw spacing since 1958. So, one could say it’s the longest running. But the long Action receiver itself has gone through changes. It’s just the screw spacing that has remained all this time.
Actually that is not totally correct. All you need to do to install a new barrel is swap out the corresponding new style parts to make it work. Bolt body, bolt head, the rest of the bolt parts are exactly the same. Remove the old style ejector since the new bolt head will have the button ejector built in. The triggers are the same as on any pre-accutrigger rifle. Nothing at all wrong with the receivers as far as I know. Unless you can specifically say why these receivers are a NO GO?Quote:
Originally Posted by mnbogboy2
may want to examine the bolt cross pin orientation.Quote:
Originally Posted by AZ_GUN_NUT
I think that's is covered when you swap out the bolt head and body to the later style.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue Avenger
This has been discussed a few, probably several times, my friends. Just in the last couple weeks Phil & I were discussing this. And while I outlined the necessary steps in swapping parts over, and even removing the fixed Ejector, Phil’s debate was the newer style Actions(Post 1966), were a better choice due to ease. I agree. Really though, it depends on what is it being used for? If the Action itself is the only item needed, they are the same. It’s the external parts in question. If one is replacing ALL these arts(as I have nearly done with my rifle), then it doesn’t matter. But if one wishes to save money, I agree that newer rifles are better.
You say iron sights are part of your criteria. Be aware that you will probably not be able to change barrels between actions. Sights will not be on top!
I have 2 of those, one I converted the bolt to the post 66 type and put a 338-06 barrel on it and one I left original 7mm Mag. Both function great. Bolt lift is lighter than the post 66 ones. Machining and bluing is better. I actually prefer them. Great hunting rifles. Trigger options are limited. Parts can be found if you look for them. Ebay is a great place to look.Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilC
Attachment 8649
No argument from me on that!Quote:
Originally Posted by dillwt
One thing, if you retain the original pre-66 stock and don't use a custom turned barrel that includes the band for the rear sight dovetail you'll have a corresponding empty recess in the stock. But, if looks don't matter, no big deal.
I'm still waiting for Shaw custom barrel to confirm, now going on 2 weeks, whether or not their pre-66 barrel includes the band for the rear sight dovetail (picture on their website does not). I'd be one unhappy customer if I ordered a pre-66 barrel expecting it to be an exact replacement and it showed up at my door without the band for a dovetail.
I do not believe it does. They are using the same blanks. The only difference being the countersink at the breech.
Just find an old walnut post 66 stock and you will be set since both have same bolt pattern. May have to do some minor inletting.Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilC
Actually, it is more so than not and the pre-66 trigger assembly is not the same as post-66, here are pics of both of mine.Quote:
Originally Posted by AZ_GUN_NUT
Pre-66...
https://i.ibb.co/MBw6KtZ/pre66a.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/jkqht9M/pre66b.jpg
Post-66...
https://i.ibb.co/Tg2RWjX/post66b.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/sbKh014/post66a.jpg
And, if you keep the pre-66 stock and use a later barrel, you'll have this to contend with too...
https://i.ibb.co/YhRYk4K/pre66forearm.jpg
Anyone can make a bunch of parts changes to end up with an action but starting with a complete post 66 action in the first place would be the most economical and sensible option. Alternatively, one could leave the early action as is and enjoy it. :cool:
Yup… This is correct. While the Pre66 can be stripped down & ya have a basic Long Action like the Post66, which will accept all newer parts.., what Phil says is correct. And the wise decisions. If you WANT a Pre66 as a collector, awesome! But if looking for accurate shooter, likely planning to replace barrel or a few other parts, yeah, go with a newer.