stainless tumbling...

i got a STM rebel 17 tumbler for Christmas and used it today to tumble 50 pieces of 260 brass...pre instructions i added 1gal cold water,3Tbs blue dawn,1/4Tsp LemiShine and tumbled for 3hrs. checked cases and insides were still kinda dirty(which i dont really care)so i ran them another hour and insides still dirty and i guess a 1/4Tsp is to much LemiShine because the case are tarnished now which i dont mind either as ive never cared what my brass looks like only that it shoots. i cleaned the drum and media and added warm water and 2Tbs dawn and put them back on for 45mins...will be done in 30mins ill post some pics when done.

so for you guys that are tumbling with stainless pins what are you using? any tips for a newbie?

How many pins?

Added:
I use 1/4 tsp of Lemishine per pint of water. A dash of soap and I don't cover the cases completely with water.

I just started SS tumbling and my cases are really clean inside and out... Even primer pockets.. I did run my media by itself for the first hour.. I read somewhere to do that.. Regardless, hope you see better results than what you mentioned...

#3 tumbler. Shot of dawn an a sprinkle of lemishine 2 1/2 pounds of pins full of water. 1-hour clean enough for me. 2-hours you won't be able to tell if you annealed or not.

Doesn't need much dawn or lemishine unless making shaving creme.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Robinhood

How many pins?

Added:
I use 1/4 tsp of Lemishine per pint of water. A dash of soap and I don't cover the cases completely with water.

---

5lbs of pins...i put 1/4tsp lemiShine in a gallon of water and it turned my cases copper color,i just spent an hour and a half with 0000 steel wool cleaning them up...they didnt look bad until dry and the insides are clean but not like new clean like ive seen pics of.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by sixonetonoffun

#3 tumbler. Shot of dawn an a sprinkle of lemishine 2 1/2 pounds of pins full of water. 1-hour clean enough for me. 2-hours you won't be able to tell if you annealed or not.

Doesn't need much dawn or lemishine unless making shaving creme.

---

Maybe ive got to many pins in the drum?

How long did you rinse them. If you leave them in water for a few minutes to rinse them, sometimes they turn pink. I don't think too many pins are the issue. I would increase before I decrease. My setup is the double drum harbor freight and my quantities are the same as yours for a very small drum.

It's your detergent and not the Lemishine that's tarnishing your brass. Or you're not thoroughly rinsing your brass. I recommend less Dawn and adding a little more Lemishine in your 2nd to last rinse. I normally rinse my brass 4-5 times with clean water.

A couple tricks to try:

1) Use hot water for your initial cleaning. Just hot water out of the tap. Your brass will clean quicker. I usually tumble my brass for 2-3 hours.

2) If you used a lot of case lube or wax drain off the water after an hour and refill and re-add your Dawn and Lemishine.

3) If you want your brass nice and shiny, dissolve a teaspoon of Lemishine in a little warm water and put in in your second to last rinse. Honestly, you can just skip the Lemishine in your initial cleaning water and just use a little in your rinse water and you will get the same or even better results.

4) If you're necks are getting peened use more SS pins, water, put in less brass or slow down your tumbler. The SS pins are not peening your necks. It's the brass falling on and impacting other brass that causes the peening. The SS pins do not have the mass required to cause that type of damage.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Robinhood

How long did you rinse them. If you leave them in water for a few minutes to rinse them, sometimes they turn pink. I don't think too many pins are the issue. I would increase before I decrease. My setup is the double drum harbor freight and my quantities are the same as yours for a very small drum.

---

they were tarnished the first time i checked them after 3 hours and worse after 4 hours as far as rinsing them i pulled them out of the drum 1 at a time dumped pins outta the cases and put them directly into a bowl with cool water running in the bowl so id say total of 10mins. it says in the instructions that to much LemiShine will tarnish cases.
the case on the right is the tarnished case...one on the left is cleaned up with steel wool...the picture isnt that great as the cases looked like old copper tubing not brass...also if you look closely at the case on the left you can see black spots on the left side of the case....there was several with black spots and some of the cases had a bluish color(like when you heat steel with a torch)on the necks.

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/...s/photo-14.jpg

I'm telling you, dissolve a little Lemishine in a cup of water and dunk the tarnished brass in it for just 15-30 seconds and then thoroughly rinse. My brass comes out looking better than new.

http://i1110.photobucket.com/albums/...untitled-1.png

http://i1110.photobucket.com/albums/...3/IMG_1761.jpg

Sparky, That is how mine looks when I am done but every so often i see some dullness. Im going to give your method a try when that happens. Thanks for the tips.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by sparky123321

It's your detergent and not the Lemishine that's tarnishing your brass. Or you're not thoroughly rinsing your brass. I recommend less Dawn and adding a little more Lemishine in your 2nd to last rinse. I normally rinse my brass 4-5 times with clean water.

A couple tricks to try:

1) Use hot water for your initial cleaning. Just hot water out of the tap. Your brass will clean quicker. I usually tumble my brass for 2-3 hours.

2) If you used a lot of case lube or wax drain off the water after an hour and refill and re-add your Dawn and Lemishine.

3) If you want your brass nice and shiny, dissolve a teaspoon of Lemishine in a little warm water and put in in your second to last rinse. Honestly, you can just skip the Lemishine in your initial cleaning water and just use a little in your rinse water and you will get the same or even better results.

4) If you're necks are getting peened use more SS pins, water, put in less brass or slow down your tumbler. The SS pins are not peening your necks. It's the brass falling on and impacting other brass that causes the peening. The SS pins do not have the mass required to cause that type of damage.

---

thanks sparky...you posted just before i did and after i posted i logged out to go prep some brass so i missed both your posts.

ok so on the first tumble JUST use hot water? or add MORE LemiShine and LESS dawn?

I have never heard it discussed but I have extremely hard water. I wonder if soft water makes a difference?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Robinhood

I have never heard it discussed but I have extremely hard water. I wonder if soft water makes a difference?

---

my water is very hard as well...it leaves white spots on glass that CLR will not touch.

I normally use less Dawn and more Lemishine. However, as I mentioned above you can skip the Lemishine and just add it to your second to last rinse. The SS pins and hot water really do all the work. The Dawn helps to remove any oils or wax. The Lemishine, which is a weak acid, will make your brass shiny and keep it from tarnishing. It's also important to spin your brass in a media separator to remove as much water as possible. I rinse and spin my brass in a Dillon media separator after cleaning with SS pins. I fill the media separator tub up with clean water and slowly spin the basket. After a couple rinsing like this, draining off the dirty water and using fresh water each time, all of the pins are out of the cases and the brass is completely rinsed. In the summer I just put the garden hose in the media separator tub and let it overflow as I slowly spin the basket. I then roll the brass around on a towel to remove more water. My last step is to further dry the brass using a hair drier on them. They're pretty dry at this point and there will only be a little water left inside bolt neck cases. In the Summer I just put the towel in front of the dehumidifier down the basement and let them air dry over night after rolling them around on the towel first to remove the water from the outside of the cases.

Lately, I've been using the SS pins in combination with a vibratory cleaner with corncob. I first deprime the brass and clean them in SS pins. After the cases are clean I may anneal them if I feel it's time. I then lightly spay the clean cases with a quality case lube, I use Sharp Shoot R Royal Case Sizing Lube Aerosol, and resize(normally FL). The last step is 5-10 minutes in the vibratory cleaner just to remove the case lube.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by sparky123321

I normally use less Dawn and more Lemishine. However, as I mentioned above you can skip the Lemishine and just add it to your second to last rinse. The SS pins and hot water really do all the work. The Dawn helps to remove any oils or wax. The Lemishine, which is a weak acid, will make your brass shiny and keep it from tarnishing. It's also important to spin your brass in a media separator to remove as much water as possible. I rinse and spin my brass in a Dillon media separator after cleaning with SS pins. I fill the media separator tub up with clean water and slowly spin the basket. After a couple rinsing like this, draining off the dirty water and using fresh water each time, all of the pins are out of the cases and the brass is completely rinsed. In the summer I just put the garden hose in the media separator tub and let it overflow as I slowly spin the basket. I then roll the brass around on a towel to remove more water. My last step is to further dry the brass using a hair drier on them. They're pretty dry at this point and there will only be a little water left inside bolt neck cases. In the Summer I just put the towel in front of the dehumidifier down the basement and let them air dry over night after rolling them around on the towel first to remove the water from the outside of the cases.

Lately, I've been using the SS pins in combination with a vibratory cleaner with corncob. I first deprime the brass and clean them in SS pins. After the cases are clean I may anneal them if I feel it's time. I then lightly spay the clean cases with a quality case lube, I use Sharp Shoot R Royal Case Sizing Lube Aerosol, and resize(normally FL). The last step is 5-10 minutes in the vibratory cleaner just to remove the case lube.

---

thanks again...im going to tumble some older brass now and see how it works out...i did order the STM kit so i have the media separator and will use it this time...so i just add the LemiShine to the media separator on my second to last rinse correct?

I bought a rock tumbler from Habor Frieght. I use one lb of the small STM and clean 25 rounds of .308 per drum (comes with two) for an hour (deprime them with a Lee deprimer first), size them, trim, debur, etc and tumble again for an hour with 1/4 teaspoon of LS and dawn.

Run water directly in the drum, remove each case & rinse one at a time, set them out to dry and they always look new.

sparky your advise was dead on thanks for your help...i took some old 300 win mag brass that was loaded about 15xs and NEVER cleaned other than steel wool on the necks after annealing. i added hot water,1tbs blue dawn and 1/2tps LemiShine that i dissolved in hot water before adding to the drum and tumbled for 1hr. i then drained the dirty water,rinsed the pins,brass and drum by adding hot water to the drum and draining off until water was clean. i then added hot water 1/2tbs dawn and 1/2tsp of LemiShine(dissolved in hot water)to the drum and put it back on to tumble for another hour(its tumbling now)heres some pics....taken with an Iphone so not the best.

before....
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/.../photo1-30.jpg

after 1 hour....
http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/.../photo2-30.jpg

Looks great! Nice job.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Robinhood

I have never heard it discussed but I have extremely hard water. I wonder if soft water makes a difference?

---

Yes. Soft water less Lemishine. Maybe a pinch. Rinsing the snot out of them makes huge difference for tarnish. Too much LS gives me rose colored brass. I air dry/anneal here in Phoenix at 110 degrees. They dry REAL fast. I also towel dry the excess off the cases leaving them on a towel on the concrete.

Greg

Something that nobody has mentioned yet, LESS garbage in your dies and press. Easier to size ultra clean brass as well...just a touch, but is noticeable. I am ANAL about clean brass - stainless media tumbling takes less time and provides a CLEAN base to build on.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by GLShooter

Yes. Soft water less Lemishine. Maybe a pinch. Rinsing the snot out of them makes huge difference for tarnish. Too much LS gives me rose colored brass. I air dry/anneal here in Phoenix at 110 degrees. They dry REAL fast. I also towel dry the excess off the cases leaving them on a towel on the concrete.

Greg

---

thats what im getting is the rose color not the white shinny brass...im going to shoot the 50pcs of 300 brass this weekend then tumble with less LS and less dawn and see how they come out.

I had put some water softener in with mine and it came out rose colored. Stopped using softener and the shined up like they should have. I can be very liberal with the LS in my hard water but the soft water must have been the issue for me. I just know that when the water softener was used it created the pink copper color.

Anything "basic" or "alkaline" is probably causing your discoloration. Primarily, using too much detergent or not thoroughly rinsing your brass will cause it to discolor. No worries though. If your clean brass gets discolored for any reason just re-rinse it in clean water with a little dissolved Lemishine. One final rinse in clean cold water and you should be good to go. Remember that the hot water and the SS pins really do almost all of the cleaning. Detergent just helps to loosen and float off any oils or resizing lube/wax while Lemishine will help remove any tarnish and brighten the brass.

If you want shiny brass to stay shiny try this.

After SS cleaning, dry the brass, then put it in a dry vibratory tumbler with either corn cob or walnut and some liquid auto shine. Just a bit. Tumble it for ten min and this will coat your brass and it will stay bright forever.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by sparky123321

Anything "basic" or "alkaline" is probably causing your discoloration. Primarily, using too much detergent or not thoroughly rinsing your brass will cause it to discolor. No worries though. If your clean brass gets discolored for any reason just re-rinse it in clean water with a little dissolved Lemishine. One final rinse in clean cold water and you should be good to go. Remember that the hot water and the SS pins really do almost all of the cleaning. Detergent just helps to loosen and float off any oils or resizing lube/wax while Lemishine will help remove any tarnish and brighten the brass.

---

Yep...ive found if i just mix a tiny pinch in warm water and dip the cases then rinse it cleans them up...i should have written all this down but i ran one batch that came out perfect and i think it was in cold water with no soap...if it gets above 30deg this weekend ill go shoot 50 rounds and tumble 25 at a time and figure out what combo came out clean...i also tumbled a batch with a 1/4 cup of slip 2000 carbon killer and it seemed to help remove the carbon faster ill have to try it again as well.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by seanhagerty

If you want shiny brass to stay shiny try this.

After SS cleaning, dry the brass, then put it in a dry vibratory tumbler with either corn cob or walnut and some liquid auto shine. Just a bit. Tumble it for ten min and this will coat your brass and it will stay bright forever.

---

Thanks for the tip...

For what it's worth, stuff I've learned the hard way...

If you live in an area with fairly hard water you probably need to switch to bottled water in your final cleaning/rinse solution, or up the amount of acid by using more Lemishine or vinegar. Too little acid in the presence of salt/minerals will promote corrosion instead of cleaning.

I've experienced rose colored brass after cleaning with a mixture of vinegar and salt and tap water. I've read on other forums that this makes a weak hydrochloric acid and the rose color is the result of the zinc being leached out of the surface of the brass, turning it more towards copper than brass. I don't get this with Lemishine (citric acid), just get clean brass.

I did try vinegar and salt in my ultra-sonic cleaner too and made the mistake of leaving it in for a few days. Ate it's way right through the bottom of what I thought was a SS tub, but was actually nickel plated steel. I suspect the nickel plating was a bit too thin in a few places. The brass did clean up well, except for the slight rose coloration in spots, mostly around the neck where it had been factory annealed.

For drying, I give a quick shot of compressed air and then place them into a cardboard box that I've cut a hole in the side of to insert a hair dryer. Set on low and with a vent hole in the other side so as not to obstruct airflow through the hair dryer, this will easily get up to 140 degrees. I find this safer and more effective than using a cooking oven, and 20 or 30 minutes in the hot box will cook out all the moisture. I've been using this hot box technique for about 30 years, it's quite effective. Regarding fire risks, most modern hair dryers have an overheat limit switch so even if you completely screw up by obstructing the inflow or outflow, they'll shut off before starting a fire. I've never got one to go hotter than 180, so no risk of softening the brass. I monitor temps with a meat thermometer poked into the side of the box.

I hope this helps.

OK folks help me out here...

I've been contemplating going with one of these for a little while as I "hear" how much easier it is to use and how much cleaner the brass gets (inside and out).

Now the cleaner part I can see (visually), but I wonder how clean brass has to be. Inside or out.

As for the easier part, I'm really not getting it. Two-three hours tumbling with the pins then rinsing two-three times with fresh water and then drying. And then, some even throw the brass into a vibratory cleaner with corncob/walnut media after that.

I personally throw my brass, usually 200-250 pieces of .38 Special, in a vibratory cleaner with walnut media and a few drops of Nu Finish liquid car polish for two-three hours and then separate it. The brass is usually quite clean & shiny on the outside. I'm not too concerned with the inside and I don't deprime until after I tumble.

My hunting brass will get the primer pockets cleaned out quickly with a hand-held primer cleaning tool.

Does the tarnished look affect performance? I've only tumbled a couple times. I didn't use lemishine, just a little detergent. They don't look perfect, and the insides aren't cleaned out, but they look a lot better than corn cob ever did.

I ran some m855 pulls and it cleaned off all the tar sealant and the stuuuuuupid green paint. Also I found a 55gr pill hiding in the bag. Last time it was a 190gr in a box of 175s.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Twinsen

Does the tarnished look affect performance?

---

Yes, It creates a better boundary layer of air so as you eject the case it results in the cases flying so far back that you cant find them. Ive seen an improvement of case B.C. of as much as .5% Some Benchrest guys us emery cloth while turning the brass in a fixture chucked up in a cordless drill.



Just kidding. It doesn't hurt a thing. Get some lemishine at the grocery store and put a pinch in there and you will be amazed.

I appreciate the info and the sarcasm. I swear you could build a skyscraper with just nails and sarcasm. Magic stuff.

Case BC got me. I was like "does that have something to do with neck tension or does he mean Ballistic... OH YOU SON OF A *****!"

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Rick_W

OK folks help me out here...

I've been contemplating going with one of these for a little while as I "hear" how much easier it is to use and how much cleaner the brass gets (inside and out).

Now the cleaner part I can see (visually), but I wonder how clean brass has to be. Inside or out.

As for the easier part, I'm really not getting it. Two-three hours tumbling with the pins then rinsing two-three times with fresh water and then drying. And then, some even throw the brass into a vibratory cleaner with corncob/walnut media after that.

I personally throw my brass, usually 200-250 pieces of .38 Special, in a vibratory cleaner with walnut media and a few drops of Nu Finish liquid car polish for two-three hours and then separate it. The brass is usually quite clean & shiny on the outside. I'm not too concerned with the inside and I don't deprime until after I tumble.

My hunting brass will get the primer pockets cleaned out quickly with a hand-held primer cleaning tool.

---

I dont know so much thats its easier as cleaning brass is a PITA no matter how you do it but ss tumbling eliminates you cleaning your primer pockets so that eliminates that step...and ive come to the conclusion that you dont need to rinse it several times and that my water is very hard which is causing the rose/copper color...i just got 200pcs of new lapua brass and when i put the last batch i tumbled next to brand new lapua the only difference is the new brass has a mirror like shine because its smooth and free of scratches but as far as the color its exactly the same....ive always only cleaned the outside of my brass with 0000 steel wool with makes the brass more of a brass color (white gold so to speak)so i just need to get use to the gold color. Im going to tumble my next batch in bottoled water,1/2tsp dawn and a little over 1/4tsp lemishine and see how that works...ive found with my tap water the less dawn i use the shinier the brass is. Also nice to see the inside of the cases instead of a black crud caked to the insides.

I love using SS pins, but it's much more involved and takes up a lot more of my time compared to a vibratory cleaner. However, using the SS pin causes less wear and tear on my dies and I no longer need to manually clean my primer pockets or necks. I also feel(know) my annealing/neck tension and seating pressure are much more consistent due to the brass being in like new condition while preforming those processes.

Here's my process:
1) Decap only
2) Thoroughly clean brass in SS pins
3) Anneal
4) Lube and FL resize brass
5) 10 minutes in a vibratory cleaner with corncob to remove the lube
6) Reload

I put some Armor All Wash and Wax instead of Dawn into the water when I tumble. It gets just as clean, and seems to stay shiny longer. The wax it leaves is not a substitute for case lube, though. (I had to try it)

i think ive got the recipe down now...these are the cases that i finished turning necks on last night PRIOR to tumbling to remove the imperial wax off the cases. the cases were tumbled about 2 weeks ago using 1TBL spoon of blue dawn and 1/4tsp of limeshine and as you can see they are a little dull and have black spots on them....

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/...s/photo-17.jpg

these are the same cases i neck turned AFTER i tumbled(for 1 hour to remove the wax)and dried...this time i tumbled with 1TSP of yellow ajax and a rounded 1/4TSP of limeshine....its a crappy pic but the cases are now the shinier white brass color not the dull gold color and no black spots....

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/.../photo1-43.jpg

this pic is a little better...

http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/.../photo2-43.jpg

I bought some 357 mag brass from someone that ran them in the SS pins. I now have 2K rounds of brass that I have to chamfer on the inside and out side as it crushes in both the expander die and the seater die. What a pain in the arse. I can see rifle brass doing this but not pistol. It defeats the whole purpose of a pistol round.

Im not necessarily one that needs things bright and shiney. I do tumble my brass occaisionaly in the old corn cob media
but usually only when it starts to embarras me. And ive never gone the extra step some do to get the extra shine even when i do.
My proceedure for many years has been to use hand tools to clean primer pockets and inside case necks. Ive noticed however that
after loaded ammo sits for awhile it can sometimes be difficult removing bullets from the cases. To the degree in some cases where the grip type
bullet pullers wont do the job. No doubt this can cause pressure spikes when firing this type of ammo. Ive never conducted any type of test
to determine if this situation takes place with new or sqeaky clean brass as well as with sooty neck reloads. Ive known quite a few competative
shooters over the years and loading proceedures is always a topic of conversation. But ive not heard this particular topic discussed.
I was shooting some ammo that had been loaded for about 5 years this fall while practicing shooting distant rocks. Several of the rounds gave me
a very heavy bolt lift on a load ive been using for many years. I swithced over to some of my sons ammo of the same load and had no issues.
Pulling 2 of his and 2 of mine revealed exactly the same powder charge of the same powder. Pulling the bullets was where there was a difference however.
Most of mine were seemingly welded to the case and required using dikes to pull them. I of coarse pulled all i had and threw away all the ruined bullets
and powder. Has anyone else experienced this and if so what was your remedy for correcting it?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by yobuck

Has anyone else experienced this and if so what was your remedy for correcting it?

---

More than once bucky. Sometimes if you seat them only a .001" or so deeper you'll fell/hear then break lose.

I've heard opinions why "bullet welding" happens but nothing concrete. Some seem to think its sizing lube, some kind of a reaction between the brass -bullet jacket, residue from cleaning, lube on the bullets from manufacturing process and etc. What's strange, some may be welded and some not in the same batch, no rime or reason why.

My remedy, seat them a .001 or so deeper to break the weld then fire or pull the bullets.

Bill

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by tomme boy

I bought some 357 mag brass from someone that ran them in the SS pins. I now have 2K rounds of brass that I have to chamfer on the inside and out side as it crushes in both the expander die and the seater die. What a pain in the arse. I can see rifle brass doing this but not pistol. It defeats the whole purpose of a pistol round.

---

my riffle brass does this every time...i dont load for pistol and 9MM are cheap...but i trim and chamfer every time anyway so its not an issue for me...when loading for pistol do you NOT normally chamfer every time?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by yobuck

Im not necessarily one that needs things bright and shiney. I do tumble my brass occaisionaly in the old corn cob media
but usually only when it starts to embarras me. And ive never gone the extra step some do to get the extra shine even when i do.
My proceedure for many years has been to use hand tools to clean primer pockets and inside case necks. Ive noticed however that
after loaded ammo sits for awhile it can sometimes be difficult removing bullets from the cases. To the degree in some cases where the grip type
bullet pullers wont do the job. No doubt this can cause pressure spikes when firing this type of ammo. Ive never conducted any type of test
to determine if this situation takes place with new or sqeaky clean brass as well as with sooty neck reloads. Ive known quite a few competative
shooters over the years and loading proceedures is always a topic of conversation. But ive not heard this particular topic discussed.
I was shooting some ammo that had been loaded for about 5 years this fall while practicing shooting distant rocks. Several of the rounds gave me
a very heavy bolt lift on a load ive been using for many years. I swithced over to some of my sons ammo of the same load and had no issues.
Pulling 2 of his and 2 of mine revealed exactly the same powder charge of the same powder. Pulling the bullets was where there was a difference however.
Most of mine were seemingly welded to the case and required using dikes to pull them. I of coarse pulled all i had and threw away all the ruined bullets
and powder. Has anyone else experienced this and if so what was your remedy for correcting it?

---

ive had ammo that has only sat around for a few months do weird things...flyers wouldnt group for sh.t...same ammo freshly loaded shoots bug holes so i dont keep hand loads around longer than a week. and im going on theory here but youve seen grease or oil that sits around for years right...kinda turns to paste so my thoughts are that...like Bill said...the wax and or oil glues the bullets to the cases...why factory ammo dont do it?? maybe because of the tight factory crimp seals the bullet so that less or no air can get to the oil??

[QUOTE=BillPa;299936]More than once bucky. Sometimes if you seat them only a .001" or so deeper you'll fell/hear then break lose.

I've heard opinions why "bullet welding" happens but nothing concrete. Some seem to think its sizing lube, some kind of a reaction between the brass -bullet jacket, residue from cleaning, lube on the bullets from manufacturing process and etc. What's strange, some may be welded and some not in the same batch, no rime or reason why.

My remedy, seat them a .001 or so deeper to break the weld then fire or pull the bullets.

Well Bill i did try seating them a little deeper in order to make pulling them easier. But for the most part it had little affect.
They were still so tight i could only remove them by ruining the bullets using dikes. In the past ive been known to load quite
a few at one time for both practice and hunting. Im having second thoughts about that since this experience. But could dirty
necks have that effect? And would new/clean brass have any affect on this?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by yobuck

And would new/clean brass have any affect on this?

---

I haven't a clue, in fact what I gathered from the discussion on 6BR awhile back no one else has one either.

Bill