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Has anyone ever used quiksteel to fill the factory synthetic stock forearm? I've debated getting a boyds varmint thumb hole stock for my heavy barrel 308, but I figured I would try a cheap alternative first. The stock flexes in my hand, let alone on the bipod. I figured the quiksteel would solidify the stock enough to do the shooting I'm doing. If this won't work I'll just spend the $150, but for the limited shooting I do, cheap would be my preferred route.
Honestly, go with Rockite. It is easier to use in my opinion, and hardens and stiffens the stock perfectly. Plus it;s $3.99 a lb at Ace Hardware and subsidiaries.
I just did both a Savage model 10 and my Axis heavy barrel. Took a styrofoam cup, added the mix, added a very little water at a time, and mixed. Once it reached a "JUST" pourable consistency, I leveled the stock and poured it in. Being a fluid instead of Quicksteels putty, it fills in all the nooks and crannys easily. I fill it till I can just make out the tops of the interior fins and dividers, plenty of stiffening, no issues with barrel contact that way.
I have used quicksteel in the past, in fact the Mod 10 had a layer in the bottom of the forend from when I bedded it, and used the remainder for stiffening. I wouldn't go back to Quicksteel for stiffening now that I have used Rockite. Rockite Foreend fill adds about 4 ozs to the weight in mine, since it's essentially a concrete, there is ZERO flex after it has dried. I give mine and hour usually.
I then tape off the topside of the stock, front and rear and spray is with a coat of flat black primer. Total work time from mix to pour, 5 mins, Drying time and hour. Rockite can be mixed thinner and still be 100% effective, it just takes a longer drying time, or just add a bit more mix. The nice thing about mixing it in a paper cup is you just let the excess dry and toss it.
i was going to suggest the Rocktite even though i have never used it yet but there is a few articles on the forum about it's use. cheap and effective, what have you got to lose?
triehl27, why do you primer it afterwards?
Bruce
Bruce, simple vanity. The Rockite dries to a mottled grey, and looks like concrete, looks out of place against the black stock and black fins separating the forend sections. A coating of primer flat black spray, makes it look OEM almost (when I haven't dribbled on the fins or outside the stock) Even though it's going to be all black I tape it off so that it doesn't spray the outside of the stock which will eventually come off on my hands with use.
Quote:
Originally Posted by devildogandboy
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b2...7b7bffd072.jpg
Sorry for the huge image.
The forend is Rockite, and the poor bedding job is quicksteel, I just never cleaned it up as it shoots so well as is I saw no point in monkeying with it further.
This is my Mod 10, I did the bedding a couple of years ago, 1st time I had ever used Quicksteel. I just a couple of weeks ago did the Rockite.
without a doubt of hesitation, i'd highly recommend going the rockite route. far cheaper, super easy, adds incredible stiffness to the fore end and you can either fill up or "tube" the butt stock to allow controlling the weight (static), or use lead balls (muzzleloader ammo) that will roll in the tube(s) dynamically to help dampen the recoil. the rockite will cure in minutes and for less than $10 yer tupperware stock will be functionally transformed. i dunno why some folks question the gray rockite color - who would care, know one sees it. i've used rockite on at least 11 stocks, some mine and some for buds. just do it.
http://i.imgur.com/Jmiubj8.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/wSpOKIc.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/n5S4FmC.jpg
I never got a notification on this. Thanks guys, I'll look into it tomorrow. Might pour it and let it set while I'm out of town this weekend.
if yer talkin' rockite, it'll be rock hard in 15 minutes.
okay, i see, i was just wondering if it was because the rocktite needed to be sealed. thanks for the reply.Quote:
Originally Posted by triehl27
Bruce
double post.
No one around here seems to have rockite. Is there a comparable option? The closest place carrying it is 30 miles...
haven't seen anything comparable - buy it online, ace hardware has it for $4.Quote:
Originally Posted by mgardewine
Ace Hardware, Do-It Center, and the other one, are all subsidiaries, and should have it... BUT you can certainly order it off of the Ace Hardware sight and ship it.
Rockite is fairly new to me using it, and it is way way way cheaper, and a 1000X's easier to use then the other stiffening methods I have done over the years.
I'm glad a read this posting. I gotta get some of that Rockite!
there is absolutely no need to 'seal' or 'paint' the cured rockite. a total waste of time and money.
why would anyone be concerned over its cured gray color? how in the world will anyone see the rockite unless the rifle was taken apart?
most any tupperware fore and butt stock that's been treated with rockite will then take that flexible stock and not only incredibly stiffen it, but also allow a little to a Lot of recoil absorbing, steadying weight. for the most part, i'm no longer interested in any after-market laminated stock when for $5 i can take a synth stock from krap to killer.
i am unable to buy Rocktite in Canada so my option was to us some JB Weld did around where the bi-pod attaches and behind the recoil lug - didn't add too much weight - made some reloads - my first Axis which I sold was stock and it shot well - hoping that my second Axis shoots better than the first one did.
i'll bet there's a version of rockite to be found practically world wide. it's an "anchoring" or "finishing" or "quick set" cement. look for those terms.
here ya go --- quickrete, sakrete, basalite - got to be lots more, too.
Rfd12fv,
Why? Because I can. I have the flat black on hand for other things around the house, so why not make it blend and look nice? The grey can show down the sides of the barrel channel with the barrel in place and the contrast look DIY in nature. So why not take the extra time to make it all blend? If you were going to actually seal the Rockite, I dont't see the point though, my preference would be PlatiDip spray, couple of coatings. I have used that to seal ammo boxes, works well.
to each their own, it's all good, but you must have a HUGE space between the barrel and the fore stock to be able to see any of the rockite in an axis rifle. mine is about 1/16" and i can't see the rockite with a high beam flash light.Quote:
Originally Posted by triehl27
quickcrete - got it :-)
Quickcrete?? How much weight is this adding to the stock?
all depends on how much you use.Quote:
Originally Posted by alamancecreek
the fore end can be poured in just a bit or filled up. there is only a few ounces saved doing in the process and it's always best to fill the fore end to, or just over, the web bracing.
the butt stock offers a wider latitude added weight range, because pvc tubes can be added to take up volume, adding air space. this is the preferred way to rockite a butt stock, because the tube(s) can be filled with lead shot, or lead balls, or lead bullets - or nuts, bolts, rocks, pennies - whatever will add both weight and volume. fill 'til the weight/balance feels right. i use one tube and then fill that tube with lead .45acp bullets - i like a heavy rifle. some folks fit in as many as four tubes, for more air and lots less weight. the bottom line is firstly to add much needed stiffness to the nearly flimsy plastic stock, and secondly to add recoil controlling weight, and thirdly for controlled balance (particularly for offhand shooting). ymmv.
i have a slightly different (and i think, easier) method of rockite'ing a stock, but these vids will give you a solid feel for what it's all about ...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suh0feCDaHA
It added about 4oz of weight to my stock and I filled it to the tops of the divider fins.
In regards to barrel spacing, my AXIS was done by a "Friend's, Friend" It turned out badly long story short, and I have like and 1/8" gap at the muzzle end of the stock. But it shoots so dang good I can't seee myself messing with it.
Wow Glad I found this as I am keeping my tupperware stock in case I have problems with my Boyds stock.. Just wish I had of known about this before I got the Boyds :confusion:
The grip area of Axis stocks is very prone to flexing so while stiffening the forearm is beneficial it does not affect the grip area and significant flexing will probably occur especially with calibers larger than 223. When you fill the butt with Rockite does it flow into the grip area?
dunno what you mean by 'grip area', but unlike some synth stocks, an axis butt stock requires plugging/taping the seam/hole where the stock ends and the trigger/action starts, and that's its 'grip area' if i recall correctly. after the rockite treatment, the entire stock is purty darned stiff, stiff as brick.Quote:
Originally Posted by wbm
Grip area is that portion of the stock aft of the trigger guard....usually has a grip cap attached and you grip it either with your right or left hand depending on whether you have a right or left hand stock.Quote:
dunno what you mean by 'grip area'
yes, after 60+ years messing with all manner of guns, i know where/what the grip is on a typical rifle - but what PART of that grip 'area' are you finding weak/flexible? is it the grip itself, or its forward connection to the action walls of the stock? it'll be a moot point if you rockite all of it.
hello all, i just did the rockite treatment to my .223 edge. front and rear (full buttstock). super easy to do. broke the buttpad tab of course, fixed with superglue gel. just need to get some shooting time in now. there is still some flex on the forend but not as bad as before. i may sand the barrel channel some to make sure there is no contact. thanks for the rockite tip!
there should be zero flex in forestock that's had the rockite treatment. one problem that can be is if the rockite is mixed too "soupy" and is less dense than it should be. it's too easy to use too much water. you'd want to achieve a poured viscosity something like a thick pancake batter, as this will insure a good density of the cured cement, and thus it'll be incredibly stiff. with an axis synthetic stock, the rockite needs to just overfill the forestock's honeycomb webbing. when the cement cures, a 1" or so dowel wrapped in 80 grit or so is used to relieve the barrel channel so it can properly float all the way back to the recoil lug. i prefer lots of room 'tween the channel and the barrel.
yup. i mixed it to wet. it was very soupy. i will see if i can break it out and repour it. directions ha who needs em.:mad: after rereading your post (rfd12fv) i now realize that i filled the individual cavities in the stock and did not overpour the webbing. this may be why it moves as well, it's not one piece. lesson learned.
So what is Rockite? Is it a concrete or a plastic?
concrete anchoring cement.
Are you coating it with anything? What happens when it gets wet? Cement does absorb water, so you might need to paint it with something.
Some finer points from someone who has done multiple stocks with this treatment,
1. Yes I needs to be like a pancake batter consistency. Mix very little water in at a time then stir til it is all absorbed.
2. Fill until just the tops of the interior reinforcements SHOW, even with the Rockite. Filling it more will only mean you have to sand out a barrel channel.
3. A flat black Primer or in my case I like the Rustoleum BBQ black to seal and blend the Rockite with the stock. Tape off the edges of the stock and a couple of passes should suffice. I don't believe this step is a necessity, BUT I like the look and the extra piece of mind.
I would say painting it is very necessary, cement holds moisture, not really something I'd want under my barrel. But if it's sealed or painted so it can't adsorb any moisture then maybe , but I'd keep an eye on it just to make sure It doesn't cause rust in the future.
I fully agree, although my orig reason was to cover up the grey. But as I got to thinking about it later, I was thinnking about the water in the mix, that had to go somewhere over time. Hence why sealing over the top with rustoleum felt like a advantageous thing to do.
On 3 savages I have experimented with how much is needed to stiffen the forend. Filling to half way up the cross reinforcement seems adequate and gave the same stiffness once dry, as filling to the top. I went ahead and filled to the top though afterwards in a second pouring, just to be safe.
i think i will pull the action out and place some clay in the forend in different spots and reinstall the action, torque to specs and remove, then see how much room i have and if needed i will drill some holes into the existing rockite and float a small amount on top of the existing rockite. this should in effect make it all one piece if there is sufficient room.
Why not just float some JB Weld or Bondo maybe Acraglass so that you seek the cement from collecting moisture?
I'm liking this idea to stiffen up the forend but I see how much water cement holds even when fully cured. Just look at a house foundation or basement wall after it rains.
there is NO functionally imperative need to "seal" rockite when used to fill butt and fore stocks. if yer worried about moisture content, which you shouldn't, use kwixset instead of rockite.
Hi guys, new Savage Axis owner here and of course the first thing I do when I get something new is seek out a forum for it, so here I am.
First thing I noticed was the flex in the forehand, so this thread is very interesting and probably something I'm going to do. Couple of questions that I haven't seen answered and I looked is.
1: How good is the adhesion to the plastic is the Rockite, need to rough up the plastic?
2: What happens if the gun gets knocked over, takes a hit, broken chunks of Rockite loose inside?
Just curious, thanks.
RFD looks like your the expert on this process, your youtube video's that you posted no longer show up, I really wanted to see the process.
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Originally Posted by KJProX
Thanks RFD, just what I was looking for. Guess I'll be pouring some Rockite sometime soon.:rolleyes: