Oryx Chassis Initial Thoughts

Just got in my long awaited Oryx chassis for a Savage 12FV transplant...so let's see what it looks like. When I started my Savage rifle adventure years ago the one thing I always wanted to improve was the stock. I always hated how flexy the Axis tupperware was and was and I quickly got rid of them. So I turned to Boyd's for some pretty laminate wood stocks. While I like the Boyd's price and customization options they always seem like another project. Next thing you know you are looking at pillars and bedding to firmly mount the action.

When I started on the 12FV craze I quickly tried out a B&C composite stock. Talk about plug and play. They felt like a bridge girder and the action fit like a glove with no needed modification. As my desire to shoot at longer distances started to grow I would look at a chassis system but the price always turned me away. When MDT announced their new budget Oryx line I was intrigued and took the plunge.

The chassis arrives in a plastic bag with 2 action screws, an eccentric drilled oval spacer that allows both 4.27" and 4.40" action screw spacing, a pre-inserted .25" length of pull spacer, adjustable cheek riser, instructions, and uhhh....that is it. So my thoughts...

1. It's heavy...With the LOP spacer installed it weighs 69.4oz. The stock is a 1 piece milled aluminum slab that is minimally covered in some cosmetic plastic. It looks to me that if they had the choice between strength or low weight, they went for extra metal. With the 24" barrel, empty 10rd mag, and Athlon TAC 6-24x50 scope I am at 13.34lbs.
2. The mill work on the aluminum spine is quite good. The anodizing does not appear that thick though. It feels more like an old M16 parkerized finish.
3. The plastic trim piece molding quality is acceptable. There are some obvious flash and mold marks. It mostly lines up with everything and is totally serviceable.
4. The recoil pad is more firm than soft. Not as hard as a stock Boyd's leather strap but not a Pachmayr either.
5. The magazine release paddle is huge and very positive. The spring is a torsion style wrapped around the pivot pin...not a cheap compression spring held in a tiny pocket.
6. The grip has a nice moulding with positive feel. It's a somewhat grippy firm rubber. Appears to be AR15 compatible although looking at some I have lying around an extended beavertail might need to be trimmed down.
7. The bottom of the fore grip is milled for Magpul M-LOK style accessories. At the very end is a drilled and tapped hole for a swivel stud, but none is provided.
8. At the bottom rear of the chassis is a QD hole for a sling.


So then I mounted my 12FV action with its x-caliber .243 varmint profile barrel...the instructions mention -0- about the eccentric spacer and its use. Recommended screw torque is 60 in/lbs or "snug plus 1/4 turn".

1. The action screws fit perfect. The front screw did not hit the bolt head...yeah!
2. Only the action itself actually sits on anything. The recoil lug bottom does not make contact.
3. It mounts like my B&C, very firm and positive. The action screws quickly reach firmness and you can tell that last 1/4 turn locks up tight...nothing is flexing.
4. The barrel milling relief is huge. A straight taper barrel would fit...and then some. This relief starts at the barrel nut and just continues on. If you like a tight, but not quite touching stock, this is not for you.
5. There is no real flex in the front end. You can squeeze the barrel down a smidge if you try, but it really is stiff.
6. The AICS magazines that I have fit very snugly. All I have is a 5 and 10 round Magpul. They both require a firm smack to seat if the bolt is closed. The 5 rounder rubs a bit on the front and back, but that could be fixed with some fine sandpaper. The feed lips *just* kiss the bolt head so no problems picking up the rounds.

So now to playing around with the mated action and chassis. One thing I notice is that either cycling the bolt or dropping the trigger gives you some "twanging". I think my wood Boyd's and composite B&C do a much better job of absorbing vibrations. Will this show up as a problem in shooting? I have no idea...

Overall I am pleased with this unit. I commend MDT/Oryx in bringing a cost effective chassis option to the masses. Hopefully I can get it out soon and see if it performs...

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Great review, let us know how it shoots!

Any update on the chassis. I purchased one also but have not had the chance to shoot.

That pinging sound you hear is because the assembly doesn’t touch anywhere,allowing that tone to play itself out. This is a good thing. It means the barrel/action assembly can freely oscillate,making finding a node more easily.

Took it out yesterday. Was working on 2 different bullets for my .243, the 108 gr Hornady ELD and a 107 gr Sierra. Put ~60 rounds through it and it shot beautifully. Had 2 sub 1/2 MOA groups and a 1/3 MOA with the 107s. The stock felt solid and very easy to work off of. I love the straighter grip and how you can really put -0- force on the chassis as you pull the trigger.

I only took the 5 round Magpul mag and it was tight and hard to seat. I need to just sand down the mould lines a tad and I think it would be much better. My 10 rounder seems to seat easier.

I am debating on pulling the plastic off and painting over the anodizing with some epoxy paint, just to give it a smoother look.

At any rate it didn't hurt my accuracy at all, and may have made it a tad batter. In fact it was shooting so good that I aimed for the push pin holding down my target and melted it into the backer. Still highly recommended!

Thanks for the review! Looking to get one!

Good review, thanks, ordered one today for 12FV, 25 Creedmoor build.

Nice review - thanks much for the photos :-)

Will

The fun continues...took it out Sunday working on a load for the 108gr Hornady ELD-M. 41.5gr of H4350 got me to 2959fps and a .38" 5 shot group.

I am liking it so much that I am thinking of another one for my 12FV in .223. But it sure seems hard to find magazines, so on a whim I ordered a Ruger RPR mag hoping it was AICS enough to work. I had to trim some clearance notches and widen the feed lips a tad, but it will work. It's supposed to hold 10 rounds, and it will...but man are they tight. So consider it a 9 round mag.

Attachment 5940

What was the delivery time for your stock? Was immediate or was there a lead time and made to order, for the Savage action? Just wondering....

Mine took almost 2 months to arrive, but I think I was part of the pre-order. I am not sure of what the lead times are now...

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Originally Posted by celltech

Mine took almost 2 months to arrive, but I think I was part of the pre-order. I am not sure of what the lead times are now...

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Thanks, because, I only received an order# and processing message. I try to be a patient person, but I don't even have a barrel yet either?!

I ordered mine on back in March and it took about 10 days for them to get it out to me. I did not order the LOP spacers and ended up ordering them later. They were on back order for a couple of weeks. If you did not order them I would recommend getting a set unless you are used to a short LOP.

Nice looking rig. Once again I see us lefties are left out. Sigh......on the bright side, just saved $400[emoji1]

Attachment 5975

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Originally Posted by JasonCO

Thanks, because, I only received an order# and processing message. I try to be a patient person, but I don't even have a barrel yet either?!

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12FV put together. Currently 6.5 Creedmoor, waiting for a 25 Creedmoor barrel......

JasonCO, is that a Oryx magazine?

From reading this thread and another one on the same chasis... now 95% sure I want to order this chasis instead of the more expensive options.

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Originally Posted by ninosdemente

JasonCO, is that a Oryx magazine?

From reading this thread and another one on the same chasis... now 95% sure I want to order this chasis instead of the more expensive options.

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No, Magpul AIC. I have several chassis Savage's including the Oryx. I had to notch the mag feed lips to fit perfectly in the Oryx, that's the identifier on 2 mags.

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Originally Posted by ninosdemente

JasonCO, is that a Oryx magazine?

From reading this thread and another one on the same chasis... now 95% sure I want to order this chasis instead of the more expensive options.

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I so far like the Oryx, but I also have an Element Gen 1 and the 10BA Stealth MDT.

THanks. Have ordered the Oryx. I tried searching for other additional chassis but the Element Gen 1 did not show up. Did see that they have 3 discontinues chassis on sale at their webpage.

So I finally got mine. Installed and I like it. Have to admit I had to come back to this thread as did look odd in some places. As mentioned by celltech, the barrel relief is quite a big difference. Did purchase the 5rd and 10rd magpul magazine. Have not tried the 10rd but the 5rd magazine, for me doesn't go in really smooth. But no worries, after a few repetitions will get use to it. It does not "click/hold" the magazine with ease, have to give it a somewhat smack to ensure it holds correctly. Did see where celltech mentions also the 5rd mag to rub on the back and front of the magazine, mine did as well.

Tightened the screws with wheeler at 60in lbs. Haven't bought a bipod for it yet. Not sure if to get a Mlock or a stud bipod. Decisions, decisions....

JasonCo, on your picture you have two slots for rounds. Is it off a old piece cut to size and valcro? Just curious. Thanks.

Forgot to mentioned, the only bummer when ordering is that it doesn't allow you to choose color unless one buys the extra color pieces. Wasn't planning on spending an additional $40 just to have the others laying around. Wonder if those can be painted.

Short Action Precision 2 round holderAttachment 6020

Thanks for the reply.

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Celltech, when you mounted your stock to the rifle did you experience any bolt action stiffness when the screws were torqued? I have a problem where if torqued at 60 in lbs as indicated by instructions, my bolt action is stiff. If the screws are loosen just enough, then I don't have that problem as if it were torqued. Thanks.

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Originally Posted by ninosdemente

Thanks for the reply.

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Celltech, when you mounted your stock to the rifle did you experience any bolt action stiffness when the screws were torqued? I have a problem where if torqued at 60 in lbs as indicated by instructions, my bolt action is stiff. If the screws are loosen just enough, then I don't have that problem as if it were torqued. Thanks.

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Sounds like your front action screw is hitting the bolt head. Loosen everything up and take out the bolt...then tighten again. Feel in the bolt chamber for the action screw and I bet it's just coming past the receiver threads. At this point you have 2 options. Either lightly grind down the stock bolt a smidge or upgrade to some nice grade 8 hex cap bolts. But you will still have to grind the cap bolt down to the right size...

Thanks. Will try grinding.

Did grind but still have minor problem with bolt.... will try to give it a better cleaning see if that improves. I purchased some JB compound and Mothers Billet polish if this might help.

On a side note, yesterday was second day shooting it. Purchased 3 boxes of Hornady American Gunner 140gr as I'm planning on loading.... I still have a lot of practice to do... so my groupings need a lot of improving. I don't recall this from first time but yesterday did hear that pinging sound but something was shaking as I could see when looking through scope. I was using bags, possibly I'm not holding the rifle correct/sturdy enough or the bags?

Thanks.

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Originally Posted by JasonCO

12FV put together. Currently 6.5 Creedmoor, waiting for a 25 Creedmoor barrel......

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man, that is a sharp looking rig you got there :)

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Originally Posted by ninosdemente

Did grind but still have minor problem with bolt.... will try to give it a better cleaning see if that improves. I purchased some JB compound and Mothers Billet polish if this might help.Thanks.

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Hold off before you start trying to polish stuff. What is the "minor problem"? And does it go away if you put the action in the old stock? If the bolt binds when the action screw is tightened then it's still too long.

Will test with original stock again see what it does.

Any idea about the shaking?

Look through the scope without touching the gun...is it still shaking? Odds are you are actually holding the gun too tight and transferring motion to the stock.

I agree with celltech. A lot of people pull the buttstock into their should way too tight and grip too tight with their hands. Tight grip applies to pistols, rifles and shotguns. I get pointers from our sniper team leader. He taught me a long time ago to lightly snug the buttstock into my shoulder, lightly grip the rifle and gently squeeze the trigger. Hold it just tight enough that the rifle doesn't fly out of your hands on recoil. Breathing is huge. A lot of people hold their breath when getting ready to touch the round off. He taught me to squeeze the trigger in the small pause between breaths. Holding your breath affects yours eyes first, tiny capillaries carrying O2 to your retina. Dry fire, dry fire and then dry fire some more practicing grip, breathing and trigger control. Mind over matter on recoil. It can't be stopped. Train yourself to just let it happen with minimal (none is best) physiological responses on your part. You'll be amazed what you can do with good shooting techniques.

Was not aware that holding the rifle too hard transfers motion to the rifle. Will have to remember this next time I shoot again. Just learned something new. Did not notice crosshairs shake though when shooting rifle, if this would be best indication. Thanks again for the help.

Scootergisme, thanks for the reply. When starting, I'll be honest, I did take the shot while holding breath. After online videos, reading online, it mentioned taking shot when exhaling and that is what I have been doing up to now. Will definitely try taking shot between breathes. Just was doing some dry firing tries, lol.

I do remember trying to hold the rifle a bit too much towards shoulder and did hold grip pretty hard. Part of the reason was I was having problems with bags as did notice the rifle would "slip" when I had the cross hairs where I was intending to shoot. Part of the reason why I held it more tighter than usual... guess that was just a bad day for me. Luckily only wasted 25 rounds instead of 50 before I finally gave up for that day. :eek::mad:

I still consider myself an amateur so I really need to work on my technique. I was told a 22lr bolt action is great to practice on as no recoil and way cheaper.

Hopefully not too much to ask, can you refer/guide me to a good online video on proper "bolt action shooting technique/guide". Don't get me wrong, I have searched on my own, but am now curious if I have been following a wrong technique. I count myself in the equation as well.

In regards to the bags, it turned out that they needed to get refilled again. I previously had filled them with cat litter.

I tested on original and still the same. I checked the back screw and it doesn't even protrude at all. Has a good amount before it does. The front does not protrude... a couple of threads. Trying to "pay attention" as I move the bolt back and forth, seems that it is more in the middle section/area of receiver.

Since I have another Savage 12FV, but in .223.... can I "test" the .223 bolt on the 6.5 creed rifle and vice versa? I compared them side by side and both look the same. There are areas where they are different.

You had me confused there for a minute. So the original problem with the bolt was when you were trying to lock the action and the bolt head was hitting the action screw? And now you are saying that sliding the bolt back and forth in the action is sticky? The Savage bolt is not known for being the slickest thing in the world. It will wear in some more as you put some rounds through it. And maybe put some light lube on the contact points. If you want to polish it some, go ahead...but stay away from the JB paste for now. But yes, you can swap bolts around and check the difference. The .223 baffle is likely longer and the bolt face is smaller, but it will fit.

And a question while I am thinking about it...so the front action screw was too long. Did you install that eccentric spacer between the stock and action screw?

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Originally Posted by ninosdemente

can you refer/guide me to a good online video on proper "bolt action shooting technique/guide

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Unfortunately I cannot. I've been blessed to get to go to shooting schools as part of being a firearms instructor for the department that I work for and getting to shoot with our snipers. Once you have a functioning and reliable firearm, shooting in 99.9% mental. When you dry fire, don't just squeeze the trigger. Get in a shooting position (prone, bench, etc.), practice butt placement, grip, breathing, trigger squeeze and follow through. When you actually shoot, have someone load the firearm for you. Sometimes with a cartridge and sometime without a cartridge. When you squeeze the trigger on an empty chamber, you will learn a lot about your technique. Don't get discouraged and stay at it!

celltech, when the screws were shortened, it did help and now the sliding is "sticky" when moved back and forth. I did try the bolts interchangeably and the 6.5 bolt worked well on the .223 rifle no problem. Then I took the .223 bolt and used it on the 6.5 rifle and worked well. So I then put some grease on the 6.5 bolt and tested it again on the 6.5 rifle and did way better. Started to slide much better... but as you mentioned, guess will only tell through many rounds as I barely only have 75 through barrel. By the way, I did install the spacer.

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scootergisme, no worries. Thanks for the tips.

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Originally Posted by ninosdemente

Scootergisme, thanks for the reply. When starting, I'll be honest, I did take the shot while holding breath. After online videos, reading online, it mentioned taking shot when exhaling and that is what I have been doing up to now. Will definitely try taking shot between breathes. Just was doing some dry firing tries, lol.

I do remember trying to hold the rifle a bit too much towards shoulder and did hold grip pretty hard. Part of the reason was I was having problems with bags as did notice the rifle would "slip" when I had the cross hairs where I was intending to shoot. Part of the reason why I held it more tighter than usual... guess that was just a bad day for me. Luckily only wasted 25 rounds instead of 50 before I finally gave up for that day. :eek::mad:

I still consider myself an amateur so I really need to work on my technique. I was told a 22lr bolt action is great to practice on as no recoil and way cheaper.

Hopefully not too much to ask, can you refer/guide me to a good online video on proper "bolt action shooting technique/guide". Don't get me wrong, I have searched on my own, but am now curious if I have been following a wrong technique. I count myself in the equation as well.

In regards to the bags, it turned out that they needed to get refilled again. I previously had filled them with cat litter.

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FWIW, For going through all the components of equipment and technique in an easy to follow format, I really like the Long Range Shooting Handbook by Ryan Cleckner. I also think his videos are extremely straight forward and helpful, even for people with tons of experience. It is always helpful to get back to basics and work on your process.

Thanks prichardson54, will look him up. Have been spending some time on youtube trying to find some videos. Did find some, not many though. Looking at videos won't do much if I don't practice on the field though.