Is a barrel the only thing I need to change or are there other required components? What would be a good brand of barrel without spending a fortune?
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Is a barrel the only thing I need to change or are there other required components? What would be a good brand of barrel without spending a fortune?
Only thing you need is a barrel and go/no go gauges. Savage take off would be cheapest.
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you'll need a barrel for sure, I went with a new recoil lug and barrel nut as well, and I also had to get the headspace gauges, and action wrench. A barrel vise is a big help as well.
I believe the barrel nut is a good idea. Never thought of that.
Another thing, don't they make a special wrench to take the barrel nut off? Probably be a good idea to get something designed for the job rather than try to cobble something up I would think even if it costs a little. Could use it in the future as well..
If you have the smooth barrel nut and are planning on replacing it, then a good old pipe wrench will take it off. If you're going to invest in the action wrench (barrel nut wrench) then I suggest getting the slotted wrench to match the new barrel nut you are going to get.
I recommend Criterion or Shilen barrels from Northland shooter supply.
https://northlandshooterssupply.com/...terion-savage/
Yes, you will need a head space guage to do it right. The .308 family of cases
share the same guage. .308, 7-08, 243, and the 260 Remington.
I would agree using NSS as your one stop shop. Give Jim a call.
How much difference in cost would be involved if you just bought another gun?
^^^I imagine you could buy an Axis cheaper than a good barrel but probably not a Model 10. Another thing, another gun would need another scope, probably $250-300 for a good, durable one and then there is the rings and base. It would all add up to quite a bit.
Why 7mm-08? Just curious.
I'm changing the barrel on mine and I'm surprised more people don't go down this route. If you already have gun, you can turn it into something special for less money than getting yet another factory so so.
I have a 308 and 243. I like the 243 but if not for the 308 the 7mm-08 might be an option.
Barrel life is much better than a 243. Overall I think it is a better caliber. Less recoil than a 308 although I doubt it is a lot less. I have never shot one but it looks good on paper.
7mm08 is a great whitetail cartridge. and very accurate round for middle and longer ranges
I support the notion of a few barrels for one gun. I have an older 110 with 243, 308 and a magnum contour 358 barrel. I think the 308 is destined for a trip to JES reboring to become a sporter 358 and that magnum contour barrel will become trade fodder. But I digress.
It is simple for me to move back and forth from a light cartridge to a thumper in the matter of an hour including sight in. These urges are seasonal and I have saved a lot of money by just switching barrels, instead of buying more guns
7mm-08 is a great cartridge, not only for deer, it'll kill anything a 308 will.
Gun Shack has a McGowen 7mm-08 26" varmint contour barrel in stock. Most other barrels will be a long wait to get.
http://www.gunshack.com/barrels/mcgo...tainless-steel
If you're wanting a sporter contour barrel, send me a PM. I have a factory 22" Savage barrel with factory sights that I'll let you have for the price of shipping. I took it off an action that I bought, it doesn't look like it has been shot much.
A good sporter barrel will shoot well, but like was said, heats up much faster
and can start throwing shots. On the other side of the coin, the Sporter will
cool much faster then a heavy target type. If it's a hunter, heat is a non
question. As for choosing the 7-08 ?? it's a decent cartridge no doubt. If me,
I'd do a 6.5 Creedmoor and have a wider spread of utility. I've been shooting
one for some time. It can get it done. And one of the easiest to tune of any
rifle I have shot.
See if Midway has one of the Shaw barrel kits in stock for that caliber. They come with with barrel, wrench and gauges to do the job. EABCO may be another place to look for one of the kits.
I have many deer/elk guns and as many varmint guns and even a few African game guns.
My go to is currently a hurters Mauser in 6mm rem, but for 35 years it was a cheep savage in 243.
Literally tens of thousands of shell went through her. 400 shot Pdogs days it is easy to blast away. I have killed GOBS of deer and plenty of elk and a few bear with it. I NEVER felt under gunned. A 75 gr speer for coyote/P dogs and a 85 gr speer for the rest. Push them as fast as you feel comfortable and still keep the group under a 1/2 inch. Just saying.
PS: It's still shoots as good now as when we worked up the loads 35 years ago.
How many shells does a person go through in over 3 decades?
5,000, 10,000 I think over but I'm on the same cheep savage barrel.
Believe it or not, the ultra-thin 20" pencil barrel on my stainless 7mm-08 Lighweight Storm might be the most accurate Savage barrel I've shot, and I've shot a bunch now. But that's as long as I let it cool between shots.
Lightweight barrels can be just as accurate as heavy barrels if you're willing/able to let them cool.
Fuji, I don't know where you get the 6.5 CM has more utility than a 7mm-08. Educate me, please!
I've been shooting the Creedmoor for over 10 years. It's a good cartridge, but there are plenty other's that are as good if not better.
I have two 6.5 CM's as well as a 7mm-08, given that if the gun's are shooting equal length barrel's the Creedmoor only has an advantage shooting 10 grain lighter weight bullet's than you can get in 7mm.
The 7mm-08 has the advantage when it comes to shooting heavier bullets with higher BC's than the heaviest 6.5mm bullets.
The velocity differences between the two cartridges really doesn't matter that much, both cartridges will shoot accurately a very long distance
QUOTE=Mr.Snerdly;483111]Is a sporter barrel as good as a heavy barrel for accuracy? I know a heavy barrel doesn't heat up as fast and usually are longer, giving more velocity but other than that are there advantages?[/QUOTE]
For target shooting, I'd choose a varmint contour barrel. For Hunting I'd go with a Sporter or Magnum contour barrel.
A Sporter barrel usually starts walking shots when the barrel heats up in 3-4 shots. Varmint barrel's with let you shoot several more shots back to back before they do it.
I'd like to see a picture of the bore in a 243 Winchester barrel that has had 10k rounds shot out of it. Most 243 caliber barrels are toast after 2000 - 2500 rounds. I'm lucky to get 3000 rounds out of my 6.5 Creedmoor or 260 Remington barrel's.
My big burner is my 22 Creedmoor, the barrel last for 800 - 1200 rounds before accuracy falls off.
HUMM.
Luckier then most.:eagerness:
^^^What type of velocity would a 22 Creedmoore reach, assuming commonly used weights of 22 caliber bullets?
I saw similar velocities with my 22CM using 77gr Nosler CC and Sierra MKs.
Montana is smaller then Texas we only get 3200fps with a 200 gr in a 8mmrem mag.
I believe heavier barrels are also stiffer and more accurate on average. What's more, they are somewhat easier to hold steady and have less recoil.
That said I was recently reading that a hunting length sporter barrel can be as stiff as a heavy longer target barrel where competitors are trying to sqeeze out every fps. Im not sure on the 'formula' though to compare barrel length and contour for 'stiffness'
If you take a dremel and cut off wheel make a small shallow cut in the bottom of the but and use a chisle and light hammer.
Also when I took my 7mm-08 LWH barrel off I went with an X-Caliber 7.62x39 and after shooting it today for the first time since I started the build about 5yrs ago I couldn't be happier.
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