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I am attempting to polish my target action (receiver, baffle, recoil lug, trigger guard, bolt handle, etc.) with a maroon scotch brite pad finish. The bolt handle, trigger gurard, and baffle don't seem to be taking this finish. Are these cast parts? I have a SSS tactical bolt handle coming but assume this is cast as well? Any pointers on how to best polish them to match the receiver without having to put a mirror polish on everything?
Thank you,
Matt
Several people have polished out the target actions. I would not use scotch bright, use sand paper and work down, and it will polish up nice.
are you trying to polish it or make it a dull finish? a red scotch brite will dull it out and leave scratch marks.
any reason you said no scotch bright ? At all or just not red ?
due to finger grooves or something ? (would expect paper to do the same tho..)
curious :)
I used a polishing wheel on my bench grinder, and some polishing rouge and some Wenol(or Mothers) aluminum and stainless polish. The Wenol works very well.
I never did get the rear baffle to match the action though. Had just a rougher texture, so maybe some fine sandpaper first would help that out.
[img width=600 height=450]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t106/pdog06_photos/DSCN4133.jpg[/img]
Thank you all for the input.
I was originally thinking that I would put a scotch brite type finish on everything so that it would be easy to touch up. I have a Shilen barrel on its way that has their standard "polish" finish.
Maybe it would be easier to polish everything with some rouge on a wheel?
Very nice rig pdog06!
I've posted these before, but here are a couple of a m12 that's polished. Pdog06's gun was my inspiration. I used a bench grinder and polishing wheels. After trying a few differant combinations of compounds I would do everything with an emery compound first. Then move on the the red and white rogue. The parts I did with the emery are smoother and brighter. It is one extra step but I think worth it. I got most of my tool at Menard's. I had no problems getting the rear baffle to match. The insid eof the trigger guard was where I had troubles, had to use sand paper there, other wise all done with compound.
http://i548.photobucket.com/albums/i...cture417-1.jpg
http://i548.photobucket.com/albums/i...cture415-1.jpg
Good luck, its not hard to do just takes some time. Eric
With this type of finish would you have to put the parts back on the grinder for a touch up if needed?
Shouldn't the AO hand-crank face to the rear? Seems like it would be easer to use that way. Just sayin'. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by pdog06
PS: Maybe that's a warranty thing?
I was hoping Eric would post his pics. His turned out better than mine and I wanna re-do mine the way he did his
iron Mike,I'm guessing you were referring to the way the umbrella rod looks like it is connected to the scope in the pic trickery? Just noticed it......LOL
Pdog, yep, that's what I was joking about. But, when I first glanced, I did a "what the...?" The color and matte of the housing matches the scope real close.
How do you polish a barrel then? I have a new Shilen bbl. I should have specified shiney/ polished, but forgot to. So, do I sand it with 400 then 600 grit (wet or dry???) then buff out with flitz, or do what you did on the wheel, etc. ? I don't have machine tools. I do have several drills though.
I have touched mine up a few times and just used what ever polish I had at the time. Mother mag polish I think. The only thing that seems to ever need a tough up is the bolt. As long as you don't rough up the metal it just need a little elbow grease. I think you could get this finish with a dremel or a rill but it would take for ever plus a few years. You may see what a gunsmith that offers hot bluing would charge to do it. From what I know its is the same way you prep a high gloss hot blue job.
As far as the barrel goes, it will depend on who it is coming from. I have gotten Schneider's and Douglas that you would need to turn them on a lathe to get them smooth. But the LW L have on this gun was very shiny and smooth out of the package.
This is a Shilen that is pretty dull. What do I do to make it shiney?
Bench grinder with a polishing wheel. The results are great if you take your time.
[img width=600 height=450]http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q296/samdweezel05/Guns/DSCF0114.jpg[/img]
[img width=600 height=450]http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q296/samdweezel05/Guns/DSCF0115.jpg[/img]
Phil
I've always wanted to high polish a gun. It's been proven (somewhere) that a shiny gun will always outshoot a dull gun. Ever notice how much better the car runs after a fresh wash and wax job? Same thing. Here's a link to one Fred did for a fellow. http://www.6mmbr.com/gunweek040.html
Beautiful rig that Fred did there! Love the Candy Colors and the Polished action
Samdweezel05 sweet rig, what stock is that? Also what are the specs. I'm looking for something similiar. I've got some left over metalic midnight
blue from my Camaro. So once I find a stock its on. Is the check piece tall enough for use with a +20 MOA base?
Savageboy, is the barrel smooth and dull or a rough bead blaster finish. If its smooth just start polishing. If it rough you will have to start with a coarse wet dry paper and work finer or a lathe or barrel spinner. I think it would be difficult my hand or with hand tools.
Wet- wet / dry paper or sand dry?
yes the wet wet dry auto body type paper it will last longer
Stock is a Stockade Long Range Benchrest. LOP is 14.5" and it had a 1" recoil pad on it for extra length. My long stupid arms make it hard to find a stock that I can use but Kevin at Stockade came through with something that fit. I bought it as a money saver and did all the finish work on it.Quote:
Originally Posted by pd721el
Phil
Hey Phil where did you get that barrel nut wrench? I have to have one of those.
There was a member here a wile back that made some very cool stuff for some of us. His user name was Stainless. Not sure if he is doing it any more. He made a real nice action vice too. I love mine.Quote:
Originally Posted by groupshooter
Phil
Phil,Quote:
Originally Posted by Samdweezel05
Do you think a Dremel with flex shaft and buffers would have enough umph to do the job? I purchased several grades of stainless polishing compounds and a bunch of polishing accessories for the Dremel. It would get inside the fluted areas and the Dremel has the RPMs but does it have enough torque in you opinion? Bought the tool and polishes when I purchased the VLP but never started the job not knowing it it would work well enough. If necessary I would go to Home Depot or other and buy a small diameter hand grinder with accessories. I do have a 90 degree HD car buffer with a lot of power but slower RPMs. Think that would work with the large bonnets on the barrel and the Dremel in tight places?
Pete
Pete,
I did use a Dremel in the tight spaces(inside and tight turns on trigger guard, safety area,port opening, etc). It did work pretty goos in those hard to reach places, but dont know if I'd wanna use it on the whole action or not.
If you have the room go to Harbor Freight and get one of the bench grinders. You can get a decent one for about $40 and will have enough umph to polish an action. I bought the polishing wheels for mine, they were less than $5 each and the rouge was like $3. I have done LARGE polishing jobs with mine.
If you don't have the room then mount it on a peice of wood with an overhang then clamp it to something while you use it.
Here is the one I got on sale for $29:
6" Bench Grinder
Dolomite
Would it work, sure. Would it take weeks, yup. If you don't do it correctly, even with a bench grinder and a wheel it will leave thousands of little flat spot all over that you will see. They will look like streaks that you will never get out. When I do it, I turn the action or barrel as I move it along the length. If you just move it back and fourth along the length of the action and barrel you get lines. Polishing is removing material. The dremmel will leave lots of lines and other imperfections that will really show in the light. I hope you understand what I am trying to say.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete K.
Phil