I am having trouble finding a suitable brake/suppressor.
Can anyone provide advice or link me to reference material?
Thanks,
John
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I am having trouble finding a suitable brake/suppressor.
Can anyone provide advice or link me to reference material?
Thanks,
John
Sorry.If it needs a brake, I don't shoot it.
How about Shrewd brake at Brownells, they sell many other brands as well
Unless you're doing a brake to facilitate the viewing of bullet strikes I see no earthly reason why any 6mm needs a brake.
I'll always recommend Brownells over all other suppliers.
Do you want a break, or a suspressor as they are different?
Sharp Shooters Supply, has put many hours of research, experimentation, and developement into their breaks. They have tested competators breaks, on their testing device.
For information try searching "muzzel break" on google, this site, and other area.
http://www.chuckhawks.com/muzzle_brakes.htm
All I can say is you dont have a clue what you missing, even the smallest of caliber greatly benifits from a break, and even more so that big calibers. Try shooting a 223 rem, 204 ruger, or a 22/250 with a break and see if you still make that same statement.Quote:
Originally Posted by 243LRP
All I can say is once you try it you will see the need. It makes things more pleasent to shoot. My 6x47 Lapua has a break ,and it has less recoil than my 6BR. One of the reasons I built a 6BR is because I wanted less recoil than my 6x47l, and it did untill I put a good break on my 6x47L. I would say that the gun weighin in a 17 lbs with a break, has about the same recoil as a a light weight 22LR.Quote:
Originally Posted by nsaqam
My 6x47 (6mm-.222 Rem Mag) Kimber weighs under 6.5 pounds all up loaded full and the recoil is nil.
I stand by my assertion.
A 17 pound 6mm rifle!
With a brake!
You have got to be kidding me!
Not to mention the extra noise. My guns are for hunting,not the range w/3 layers of ear protection.
A lot of people are doing the exact same thing, Trust me once you shoot one, you will have to have one.Quote:
Originally Posted by nsaqam
I'll never own a 17 pound rifle if any stripe except maybe a Barrett .50BMG.Quote:
Originally Posted by 82boy
As a matter of fact since I got my flyweight Kimber, 8.5+ pound rifles have lost ALL their appeal to me.
Just parted out my 9 pound Savage .280AI for that very reason.
7.5 pounds is tops for me from here on out.
I hunt with brakes guns. I also wear electronic muffs while hunting anything.
I run the Vais brakes and like them alot and dont blow your ears out.His design is unique and it works. Brownells sells them.
OK, shoot your 6.5 pound rifle 200 rounds in one afternoon from either a bench or prone and then come back and we'll discuss how nil the recoil really was.Quote:
Originally Posted by nsaqam
Ive used a shrewd brake from brownells. They do work good and a good portion of the noise and gases are vented a bit forward instead of back at you like the savage factory braked 308 i owned once. I do enjoy shooting rifles more with brakes but prefer to set up a rifle so that its removable just incase i want to remove it for some bench work or if im shooting close to other in a few shoots we do at the gun club. Being able to watch the bullet splash or watch the vapor trail at longer ranges is a trip. I love it.
Brian
6mm remington is the king for breaks! I built one for my son when he was 12, built a break and installed it. The diference with the break screwed on is amazing! The more gas available, the better the break will reduce recoil.
I tried several different styles(very non-scientific) and found that the quicker the gas is released the beter it reduces recoil. Bigger holes=better reduction.
I cant speak for any brand because I have only used ones I made but I have heard good things about Vias.
When you get that 6 Rem breaked you will love it!
Steve
There is also no earthly reason for me to shoot my Kimber 200 times in one afternoon when I can complete all of my load development with 50 rounds tops.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cycler
I don't shoot competition and I never allow my barrels to get hot. Not enough time in an afternoon to shoot 200 rounds.
Hey, if a braked, 17 pound 6mm floats your boat more power to you.
Unless it's a .50BMG I'll never own a braked rifle.
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a...mberMinox8.jpg
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/a.../Kimber848.jpg
I had a Shrewd brake installed this year on my 300win mag. It has done a great job on frelt recoil and the noise is not much more than an unbraked 300win mag. At the range a few weeks ago I had several people give me the "please don't shoot that thing next to me" After telling them it was gonna be ok and after I take a couple shots if they are still uncomfortable I will wait till they leave or go to the far end away from them. After 3 shots there was a crowd and a line of people wanting to shoot it. It has less recoil than my 308. It was the best $160 [installed] I have spent.
Get one and enjoy.
.220 swift is another light recoiler that becomes awesome with at brake. The muscel brake is another that is reported to work well.
You missed my point. Perhaps you shoot only a few rounds at a time and then at moderate intervals and the cumulative recoil doesn't bother you. That's fine but there are many shooters who fire long strings during competition and for whom even modest recoil eventually becomes an issue. For them a muzzle brake on even a relativly light kicking rifle is a benefit. You can't generalize your experience and preferences to everyone.Quote:
Originally Posted by nsaqam
Seems as though nearly everyone who responded to the OP assumes the OP is firing competition.
Nowhere does he give any indication of what type of shooting he intends to do.
Therefore my observation that if he wants a brake to facilitate the viewing of bullet strikes then he should look to Brownells is every bit as valid as any other response.
I'm just a lowly hunter who has become fed up with carrying heavy rifles and will no longer do so.
Seems the vast majority of people here want heavy rifles with truck axle size barrels, hence the non-response to my questions about making a Savage lightweight. Nobody here does lightweight.
really don't matter what he is doing. He wants to know about brakes that work.
I can't speak for the everyone, but I guess I assumed that most people that look at brakes plan on an elevated volume of shooting. Most hunters (excluding prairie doggers and the like) do not shoot their hunting rigs in high volume as you stated is your case with your Kimber. So like you said a majority of people shooting 6mm cartridges would not opt for a brake on their hunting rig due to the added length and noise. So all that being said it would be logical to jump to the conclusion that the OP was talking about a gun that would be used in a higher volume of shooting, and most people who build bolt action rifles for high volume shooting go with a heavier barrel to help with barrel distortion due to added heat of the higher quantity of shot being fired. So logic says he probably has a heavier gun.Quote:
Originally Posted by nsaqam
As to your statement of "Nobody here does Lightweight", do a search here and look through past threads and you will see that when Savage came out with the lightweight hunter model there was quite a buzz around here about lightweight rifles and tricks to shave weight. Just because nobody has jumped at the chance to post on your thread does not mean that there is no interest. I myself have been thinking of using one of my extra actions to build a 20" or less lighter-weight rifle for easy carry on my ATV and in my truck. I just had no knowledge to contribute to your thread at that time.
I'm sorry you feel you are being ignored. Here I will post up a link here so everyone following this thread can see your question and give their 2 cents if they so choose.Quote:
hence the non-response to my questions about making a Savage lightweight.
http://savageshooters.com/SavageForu...html#msg341619
+1Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue Avenger
Agreed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blue Avenger
Gentlemen...Gentlemen,
I truly appreciate ALL the comments and information. Really I do. Even the somewhat dismissive and negative sounding comments were of use to me. Your info on choices and sources and other info was really a lot of "news" to me.
This brake will be installed on a Target Action...one inch Bull barrel...6mm BR.....Boyd's stock. Barrel will be 15 inches long and despite it being a heavy bull it will jump around a lot. I don't like to "chase after" my gun after every shot. :o I have seen film of a Striker that is nearly identical to the one I am building and it moved a LOT on the bags. A bungee cord tamed it some and improved the groups. He uses a brake and despite that brake being high quality, I think a brake should perform better.
My only experience with brakes is on assault rifles in 7.62 X 39. The brake I use there is effective in that the barrel drops/dips after a shot. Recoil is in the 22LR category. Some have said that the bigger the ports a brake has the better it will work. I agree with that as a really big brake discharge will eliminate forward traveling gases so there will be no recoil from that action. Problem is we need some gas pressure to vent in the vertical to eliminate muzzle "flip". My vertical ports are ahead of the horizontal ones so I get lots of pressure and gas flow prior to the gases being fully vented to the sides. I know what superb braking is cause I have a model that works.
My thought is that a brake for a 6mm will have different dimension ports than one for a 7.62 other than the bore.
Thank you all,
John
I just had a Ross Schuler brake installed on my 243 Striker and it is great. I have a 17" varmint barrel and the gun is 9lbs but I can now watch bullet strikes. Yes it is loud but not much louder than an AR-15. After using this brake it works much better than the radial hole type.
I hope you are building that on a Striker action or otherwise registering it as a handgun because a 15" barrel on a rifle is a felony.
The law states that firearms originally built as rifles must have a barrel length of at least 16" and a total length of at least 26" and they must be designed to be fired from the shoulder.
You can turn a handgun into a rifle but it is VERBOTEN to turn a rifle into a handgun.
unless...
...the action was purchased as a bare action, and not specifically designated as a "long gun" on the 4472 box 18 when transferred to the OP.
...it is kept in rifle configuration over 26" OAL with stock at full extension, and the OP has permanently attached a muzzle device (his brake) which will extend the barrel beyond 16" from the bolt face. IF the rifle meets these requirements it is 100% legal in the eyes of the BATFE (but some states like CA may say otherwise based on original barrel length and what is considered a "permanent" method).
There is some scruff about the web concerning turning a handgun to a rifle and back again, but I have not researched this for myself and will be hesitant to believe either camp without reading the specific regulations myself.
Uh,I think he wrote 17" barrel.
No John wrote 15" barrel.Quote:
Originally Posted by 1jonzmith
You mean the 4473 I believe.Quote:
Originally Posted by Corprin
I built this rifle with the full intentions of installing a muzzle brake. It is a .243WIN, and built short for a specific reason. This rifle was built specifically because of my shoulder problems were keeping me from enjoying shooting. I left the .308 rifles behind, and went with the .243, and to be very honest, I wish I had made the transition a LONG TIME AGO!!
My rifle has an RWS muzzle brake, and even now that my shoulder is much better, I absolutely love not having to deal with any recoil. I will be using muzzle brakes on all my rifles from now on... period.
DK
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x...IMAG0389-1.jpg