Hello! considering making the switch.

i've had nothing but remington 700's so far but am planning to move to savage mainly because of the ease of home smithing compared to the remington. im told unlike the remington pretty much all work can be done at home with mimimal specialty tools.

the first one will probably be a .308 since im selling a .308 to fund it but i'd reeally like to pick up one of the 110fcp .338lm or .300wm in the future.

are there any tips anyone can give me on things to watch out for when choosing a savage? such as parts availability or incompatibility, if i wanted to switch stocks or barrels later.

Biggest I've seen is the stock compatibility with regards to top vs bottom bolt release. I've seen many a shooters say short action rounds may have feed issues in a long action (like building long action .308). Others will probably chime in. They're accurate rifles but the remy guys seem to bash them a lot. Good luck making friends ;)

Welcome aboard

Welcome - do your homework (on this site) with regards to action screw spacing and small/large shank barrels.

Action screw spacing, along with top or bottom bolt release, will determine which aftermarket stocks are compatible with your action.

Welcome from NE Michigan.

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Originally Posted by Russmerle

Biggest I've seen is the stock compatibility with regards to top vs bottom bolt release. I've seen many a shooters say short action rounds may have feed issues in a long action (like building long action .308). Others will probably chime in. They're accurate rifles but the remy guys seem to bash them a lot. Good luck making friends ;)

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Ouch. That pretty much rules out the idea of getting the 110 in 300wm and parts to switch to 308 now and then. I would really like to get a 300wm or a 338 but I'm too attached to 308 to not have one around.

My first build was a 30-06 to 308 on a square back 110 action,zero problems with feeding.

Welcome to the forum Wide.

If you like to tinker with stuff, you'll love Savage rifles. Get an action wrench and a barrel nut wrench. There's a ton of aftermarket and factory options.

This site has a lot of reference for the shade tree gunsmith. If you're inclined, the $15 membership gets you access to the member classifieds.

Dana

I have built many .308's from long actions. I have NEVER had a feeding problem. None whatsoever. Never heard any complaints from anyone else who has done the same thing.

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Originally Posted by dfrosch

Welcome to the forum Wide.

If you like to tinker with stuff, you'll love Savage rifles. Get an action wrench and a barrel nut wrench. There's a ton of aftermarket and factory options.

This site has a lot of reference for the shade tree gunsmith. If you're inclined, the $15 membership gets you access to the member classifieds.

Dana

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I went through the paypal checkout. Not sure how long that takes to activate.

And yes I like to tinker but oddly only with guns. I don't get into cars or anything like that. I'm actually just finishing up my third 1911 build now.

howdy

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Originally Posted by 243LPR

My first build was a 30-06 to 308 on a square back 110 action,zero problems with feeding.

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What kind of mods did you have to perform to make that switch? I plan on doing the same. Picking my glass up this week for the build and ordering a stock once I decide which one I want.

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Originally Posted by albaugh6

What kind of mods did you have to perform to make that switch? I plan on doing the same. Picking my glass up this week for the build and ordering a stock once I decide which one I want.

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Just switch barrels and make sure it is properly head spaced as usual.

Welcome to the forum. Just recently changed my first barrel, from a 270 to a 308. Minimal tools and the head spacing was easy. As FOXX stated above, long action 308s feed very well.

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Originally Posted by Wide Glide

I went through the paypal checkout. Not sure how long that takes to activate.

And yes I like to tinker but oddly only with guns. I don't get into cars or anything like that. I'm actually just finishing up my third 1911 build now.

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You're showing up as a paid member.

Here's a link to a plethora of information:
http://www.savageshooters.com/showth...-Article-Links

Actually, everyone has access to that.

BTW, there was a 308 barrel in the classifieds last night. Don't know if someone snagged it yet...

Delivered the Remington to her new owner today. Time to start watching for the right savage. I'd start picking up parts and go that rout but I'm worried I'd end up buying a bunch of crap that isn't compatible.

would it be safe to assume that the action that comes on the .338LM 110fcp isnt exactly the same as the one that comes on the .300WM 110fcp?

Got no data on that.

But I can see Savage using a large shank barrel for the Lapua. As far as I know, most, if not all of their 300WMs are small shank barrels.

Someone around here has the answer...

Yeah I wish I was a teen and could still comprehend things faster I've got a ton to learn before making the purchase but the money is burning a hole in my pocket driving me nuts I Drive a truck for a living so I don't get much time online and when I do its with a phone or tablet

As of right now I can affordo
110fcp .338 lm rifle only
110fcp .300wm rifle and glass
10fcp-Sr .308 rifle and glass.

But I've got questions about all of them **** can't figure out which I want to go for. Eventually I'd like to have all three or at least two of them with the option of converting one to the other caliber

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Originally Posted by 243LPR

My first build was a 30-06 to 308 on a square back 110 action,zero problems with feeding.

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Same here.

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Originally Posted by albaugh6

What kind of mods did you have to perform to make that switch? I plan on doing the same. Picking my glass up this week for the build and ordering a stock once I decide which one I want.

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From 30-06 to 308 just entails a barrel change. Change out the factory recoil lug too as they're stamped, not dead flat like the ground after market lugs are.

Te .338LM actions are different from regular 110 actions. The top of reciever is solid and not cutout to increase rigidity where as the 110 has the cutout. Was shooting with a guy who had the .338LM BA. If you want the 338LM you will need to start with that specific action. There is information a dug up on it when I started my 110 build. Originally wanted a .338LM but went with 300WM since I could use the regular 110 action.

Welcome!

would it be a bad idea to buy a 110fcp-hs .300 wm just to swap barrels to a .308 so i would have the ability to load long without having to single feed?
EDIT... from what I'm reading I should be able to load plenty long with the short action

i've decided i need .308 and want to be able to feed long rounds from a mag. so atleast one of the rifles i buy needs to be .308 or easily converted.

for the second rifle i still havent decided between .338lm or .300wm.

if i were to buy used i could get used .300wm and .308 and have enough left over for the new 10fcp .338lm

one more question... lol

is there any reason to set the headspace of the rifle to near min with go guage vs sizing brass to current headspace of rifle?

i ended up getting both the 10fcp hs precision in .308 and the 110fcp hs precision in .338 lapua. i went hand tight to the go guage then backed off maybe an 8th of a turn on the .308 as soon as i got it but by the time the .338 came yesterday i was pondering the above question and havent messed with it yet.

If building for MYSELF, I prefer to headspace off of brass sized thru MY die. Make it tight for YOUR brass. Theoretically it is more accurate because there's less play. If you sell it to someone else, or try to use factory ammo, the bolt might not close on it b/c it is too tight.

If you use a go-gage, it should be fine regardless. If you want it to close easily (no resistance at all), you can back it off a tad as you said. Either way, be sure to double-check that the bolt handle will only close 1/3 to 1/2 way on a no-go gage (or resized brass with tape).

I managed to overlook the fact that the .338 has a break. How are you supposed to spin the barrel to get the desired headspace while still maintaining the brakes proper orientation?

Id assume to adjust one full rotation at a time to keep the brakes orientation but I'm pretty sure that 1 rotation makes too much adjustment....

Every time I think I'm ready to start load development I think of something else like this.

Set your head space then you have to time your brake

Care to elaborate? It's my first rifle with a brake and while go ogling some make it sound as simple as making sure the ports go up while others start talking about lathes and machine shops

I can't speak for the savage, but on some other rifles, timing the brake involves installing some sort of crush-washer behind it, and then tightening it down. The washer crushes slightly as you tighten, and you just stop when you reach dead-center. (Being careful not to go too far. You can't un-crush the washer.)