Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 25

Thread: 6.5 Creedmoor build...where do I start!

  1. #1

    6.5 Creedmoor build...where do I start!

    Hello all, this is my first post. I am wanting to build a 6.5 creedmoor that is accurate and also light enough to pack around out west for chasing mule deer and antelope. Longest anticipated shots would be 500-600 yards, but would also like to shoot targets out to 7 or 8. I am dead set on a synthetic stock, and 26" tube but everything else is up for discussion at this point. I would like to keep the finished gun without optics, base or rings to between 9.5 and 10 lbs. I have been researching components for months and am experiencing brain overload at this point. I wanted to see if anyone has built a rifle with similar goals and would list all components that they used, cost associated and degree of satisfaction with the rifle. Any guidance that is provided would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks in advance.
    -Dusty

  2. #2
    Paid Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    millbrook,al.
    Posts
    529

    Re: 6.5 Creedmoor build...where do I start!

    not exactly what your looking for but close i went with a 110long action becuase i got it cheap,then picked up a boyds clasic stock(i know you said plastic) and a cbi varmint taper barrel 26" 1-8twist,for the trigger a rifle basix sav-2 right now set at 8oz. but i can swap the spring in it for hunting and set it at 2lbs. optics are alittle up in the air i am going to try something i am putting a egw 20moa base on it like the one i have on my 308 f t/r rifle (it has a sightron 10x50x60 mm scope for target shooting) and i'm going to try swapping scopes between both guns the rings are burris extreme tacticals. this way when i shoot a rifle match i can use the sightron then come hunting season swap the trigger spring out and swap the scope out for a hunting scope and run with it. weight wise i'm not sure its farely light for me anyways i can hit the 10" gong @ 300 yds standing with it not dead center but i can ring it .if not i'll leave the bushnell 8x32x40 power scope on it and re zero when its time to hunt with it but from i've read it shouldnt loose zero when i remove it and pop it back on (i will be using a torque screwdriver to tighen it back up) i just zero the turrets for one gun then write down the other zero and put it on an index card for the other.

  3. #3
    Paid Member darkker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Mesa, WA
    Posts
    825

    Re: 6.5 Creedmoor build...where do I start!

    Crowe,
    Let me offer some arguements, that are designed to get you to think about specifically what you want.

    You want a muley/speed goat gun for out west(where I live), but you also want a bench gun.... Why not buy both? I have carried my 28# 308 for hunting season, with a sling it really isn't bad; and I'm no mountain of a man. A bench type rifle, and a hunting rifle ARE NOT the same animal! Obviously you can do double duty, but they are different critters. Bench duty is heavy, solid, Hair trigger, precise handloaded ammo machine. Hunting(by your description) is a light, packable gun; these aren't the same animal.

    Honestly, caliber aside, I am suspect of your 500-600 yard goals. MOST of the people I have met in my life don't honestly know distance very well. I have taken several to a 1500 yard gong range. Those who "Can shoot the cents off a nickle at 500 yards", USUALLY have a hard time even hitting the gong at 500 yards. IF you truly want to shoot that far, just as with bench shooting.... Get a bi-pod.

    For a synthetic stock, if light weight and rigid is you game; B&C Duramaxx is a very good choice for little money.
    "Dead set on a 26" pipe" Good deal, because you need it with the creedmoor and Hornady's factory ammo.
    Hornady has had several different posted recipies on their creed ammo boxes. The last time I spoke with them, they were then saying that the velocities are ONLY good with a 28" pipe.... Back on track, 26" heavy pipe is good for keeping groups under control. 26" heavy pipe heavy to lug across the country. Also if you plan on heading to the timber at some point, the 26" tube REALLY gets in the way!
    I'm a firm believer in the theory that if it bleeds, I can kill it.

  4. #4

    Re: 6.5 Creedmoor build...where do I start!

    i have this setup for longish hunting, all my shots are 350 yds plus in NV. last elk was 390 and mule was 410.

    -- b-c duramaxxxxx stock- with the swivel studs moved up to compensate for the longer barrel but honestly not needed cause there aren't a whole of tree dipping and diving to do out west, and if you need to get around trees and what ever is in your way you should be hand carrying your rifle ready for game to move.

    --7mm rem mag- 26 stainless with flutes. varmint contour

    --long non-tactical bolt handle allows easier reloads with the bigger scope and doesn't weigh more than the bigger ones

    --and light weight rings and a hacked up 20 moa base to save a little weight

    mounted with a swfa 5-20 or vx-3 4-16

    not sure on weight but I hike only. I average 11-17 miles a day while hunting with a full game backpack with emergencies and food. Its not to bad to say the least and the flutes do jack for weight savings lol. This setup has proven effective and light (for me at 23y.o.) but if i had to build another hunting rifle i would build this one again in a heartbeat. This combo regardless of whatever caliber you want is my sweet spot. Forget the bipod, good leg holster shooting sticks is the business here in NV. by the time you lay down and unfold the bi-pod you laying in high brush/ and wasting time. Flick you wrist and have your ready to shoot and high kneel or full standing ( i prefer the kneeling sticks) and you can make amazing shoots. not to mention you also have to hike with the bi-pod grinding into your shoulder.

    About the benchrest stuff. do your self a favor and buy a second stock and just transfer the barrel action over, tons less to worry about and makes both sides a lot more enjoyable.

  5. #5
    Paid Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Central Kentucky
    Age
    59
    Posts
    668

    Re: 6.5 Creedmoor build...where do I start!

    I have a build that works for what you have in mind. It weights in at 9lbs, 15 oz with scope and sling. It is a Savage LA centerfeed with a Stockade Hunter Stock and blind magazine. It wears a 26" 6.5x284 CBI Light Varmint barrel as a compromise to save weight as a hunting rifle and also shoot small groups at the range. I switched the Accutrigger spring to a light varmint spring so I could adjust the trigger pull down to 1.5 lbs for the range, and higher when hunting. I use Burris Xtreme 2-piece bases and Signature Zee rings. A set of Talley LW rings are about 4 oz lighter. It wears a Leupold VX-3 3.5-10 x 40 CDS scope with the dail calibrated for my hunting load. I also use the Burris Signature Zee rings so that I can easily switch to a 6-24 power scope for long range target shooting and load development.

    As already suggested, the Duramaxx stock would be good starting point. It weights in at around 34 oz. A blind magazine weights about 4 oz vs a DBM or HF assembly which adds 12 oz to the weight of a stock. Talley LW rings/bases are the lightest available. But a pain if you want to swap scopes. A 26" CBI barrel weights approximately 3.5 lbs with a light varmint contour and 4.5 lbs with a varmint contour. With a Savage SA, Duramaxx stock and 26" CBI LV contour barrel in 6.5 Creedmore, my educated guess is your looking at 9.5 to 10 lb scoped rifle. Of course that depends on how big/heavy a scope you chose to carry around in the field. Best of luck with whatever you decide.






  6. #6

    Re: 6.5 Creedmoor build...where do I start!

    Here's your start and finish, buy a long range precision. You could even sell that barrel right away and buy a fluted med. Palma to save more weight, suppose a varmint contour would work too.

    Boom, done.

  7. #7
    Paid Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Central Kentucky
    Age
    59
    Posts
    668

    Re: 6.5 Creedmoor build...where do I start!

    +1 Your right calling4life. I forgot that Savage has already built the perfect crossover rifle. Just get a LRH in 6.5 Creedmore and go have some fun. You can change the stock and barrel down the road if they don't agree with you. Buy a can of Krylon webbing paint and spray the stock and everyone will think you've got a custom build when you're at the range shooting those little groups. LOL.

  8. #8

    Re: 6.5 Creedmoor build...where do I start!

    Thanks to all of you that replied to my post...Driving home from work today I was thinking exactly what calling4life recommended! This gun has everything that I want.....except the 1" bull and the added weight. I think that buying the LRP and then spinning on a new lighter tube would be the perfect gun.

    I was trying to figure out what the 1" fluted bull on the LRP might weigh through deduction and guessing a little.. here is how I see it, maybe someone can help me out.

    Action with bolt, trigger, barrel nut and recoil lug = 2.5 lbs??
    HS Stock = 3 lbs??
    1" fluted bull = 5.5 lbs??
    Savage website has gun listed at 11 lbs

    If the above estimations are correct or close (if someone knows for sure, correct me if I am wrong please as I am just guessing) here is what I figure for the gun I would end up with:

    Action with bolt, trigger, barrel nut and recoil lug = 2.5 lbs
    HS Stock = 3 lbs
    McGowen 26" Varmit contour that finishes at .800 = 4 lbs
    =9.5 lb bare gun

    OR

    What if I got the barrel fluted to shave just a little more....the flutes might drop the weight of the barrel to 3.5 lbs??? Dropping the total weight of the gun down to 9 lbs!! Add base, rings and glass and I would be at 11.5...very doable, especilly carrying in Eberlestock Just One pack with scabbard.

    What do you guys think? Am I close on my estimations?? What about he McGowen Varmit contour barrel....I know it really dosent matter but do you guys think that the above mentioned barrel would look okay in the stock, i.e. stock barrel channel wouldent be way wide for the barrel....I wouldent think so since there is only .2 differnce in the barrel diameter. Is there another barrel out there that I should consider one that would get me near or to the weight I mentioned above (9-9.5 lbs) that would also look like it belonged in the HS stock. I have read alot of good things about the McGowens and their Varmit contour barrel, at least according to their website is lighter than the CBI 26" Varmit contour (finishes at .815 and weights 4.5 lbs).

    It would be possible to get a large shank 26" fluted varmit contour McGowen, correct? Could I get this from Jim at Northland??

    Thanks guys,

    -Crowe

  9. #9
    Registered User cgeorgemo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Joplin, MO
    Age
    44
    Posts
    390

    Re: 6.5 Creedmoor build...where do I start!

    Crowe, We are talking about the Long Range Hunter.....not the Long Range Precision.
    LRH not LRP!
    The LRH it comes chambered for the 6.5 Creedmoor but it comes with a 24" barrel not 26"

    Is there a reason that you want the 6.5 Creedmoor over the 6.5X284 Norma which is also available in the LRH?
    The Norma is everything you said you wanted in your post except being the Creedmoor.
    26" Barrel....check
    Synthetic stock....check
    Weight is less than you mentioned 8.65#......check
    5 out of 4 people have a problem with fractions...

  10. #10

    Re: 6.5 Creedmoor build...where do I start!

    Quote Originally Posted by calling4life
    Here's your start and finish, buy a long range precision. You could even sell that barrel right away and buy a fluted med. Palma to save more weight, suppose a varmint contour would work too.

    Boom, done.
    I think that calling4life was speaking of the long range precision (LRP). I dont know if jpdown actually meant long range precison or long range hunter but original post by calling4life definately says long range precison...which is the gun I really like as well.

    I thought long and hard about the 6.5x284 but I shoot alot (a bunch at the range and a bunch killing excess does under texas MLDP program, hogs, varmits etc. etc. if Im not hunting Im working or sleeping) and I really wanted a light recoiling short action gun that was affordable to shoot a lot and still have the ability to shoot at extended range.


  11. #11
    Paid Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Central Kentucky
    Age
    59
    Posts
    668

    Re: 6.5 Creedmoor build...where do I start!

    I was refering to the Long Range Hunter, in 6.5 Creedmore with a listed weight of 8.4 lbs and 24" barrel. Heck, the Savage LRP weights 11 lbs before you add the scope and rings. I've got a 12 lb varmint rifle, and I would'nt dream of lugging it up a mountain or across the plains after elk, mule deer, or speed goats. Climbing a different mountain every morning for a week with a 10 lb Savage 10ML when I was younger and thought I was in good shape cured me of my youthful dilusions. And as food for thought, my 10 lb 6.5x284 with 140 grain Bergers has less recoil (13.5 ft-lbs) than my 7 lb Savage LWH in 260 with 130 gr Bergers (15.4 ft-lbs). I'd compare the ballistics, velocity and effective range of the 6.5 Creedmore vs. 6.5x284 Norma before you cross it off the list.

  12. #12
    Registered User cgeorgemo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Joplin, MO
    Age
    44
    Posts
    390

    Re: 6.5 Creedmoor build...where do I start!

    Saying you want a light rifle and starting it with a LRP doesn't make sense. ???
    Every other 6.5 Creedmoor weighs less than the LRP and if you are just going to swap the barrel and stock why start with the expensive LRP?
    If recoil is a big deal the LRH has an adjustable muzzle brake from the factory.
    5 out of 4 people have a problem with fractions...

  13. #13

    Re: 6.5 Creedmoor build...where do I start!

    I would be keeping the LRP as is with the exception of taking off the heavy 1" bull and spinning on a lighter barrel (McGowen Varmit contour fluted for example) to save weight and get the bare gun down to 9-9.5 lbs (see the guesstimate math I did on a previous post). I would not be replacing anything else but the barrel. Maybe light wasent a good word to use...I meant light enough to use on big base camp, mellow country, short hike, foot hill country in WY and NM for mule deer and antelope carried in an eberlestock just one pack with scabbard and for using prone on the long senderos we have down here in south texas to cull whitetails. I already have a lightweight 7mm rem mag 116 weather warrior dedicated to the rougher country back pack hunts so I dont need a one gun do all type rig for all types of country.

  14. #14

    Re: 6.5 Creedmoor build...where do I start!

    Lrp= $950, sell barrel for ??? $200( I think Jim gets $280 for them), new custom barrel say $350= $1100, he gets a target action, target accutrigger and a custom aftermarket barrel= tack driver

    LRH=$850, add new hs stock = $1170 ish

    Savage predator=$750 add stock = $1070

    For a negligible difference in cost, which gun would you rather have... Even if that LRP cost me another $200 it would be worth it TO ME, for the action and the trigger.

    Getting the gun down to 9lbs shouldn't be hard with a new tube.

  15. #15

    Re: 6.5 Creedmoor build...where do I start!

    Amen!, calling4life gets what I am trying to do here! calling4life, if u were gonna do what I'm talking about what would be your personal preference for barell and why? I ask because I don't have experience with any of the aftermarket barells. Everything I own is stock from factory. This would be the first barrel I have ever purchased and wading through the manufactures combined with what exact contour etc could take an info maniac like me two weeks to look at and decide....meanwhile the cost of the LRP is going up on the budsguns website! I have read a lot of good stuff about mcgowen and CBI, guess I couldent go wrong with either of these right?

    Anyone else have an openion on this little project for company and contour to meet goals of getting the factory 6.5 crredmoor LRP down to 9-9.5 lbs (bare gun).

    Thanks again calling4life for taking the time to read what I was saying and getting it!

Similar Threads

  1. Where to start?
    By bottlerocket in forum Ammo and Reloading: Standard Cartridges
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 03-26-2011, 04:29 PM
  2. Replies: 10
    Last Post: 03-18-2011, 07:56 PM
  3. Replies: 11
    Last Post: 11-16-2010, 05:40 PM
  4. long action build what would you start with??
    By cummins cowboy in forum Help Me Decide
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 09-16-2010, 10:37 AM
  5. MOVED: long action build what would you start with??
    By Blue Avenger in forum Savage 110-based Centerfire Rifles
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 09-16-2010, 09:42 AM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •